Brocko04

I own a 2010 Silverado crew cab and was interested in putting a sound system of some sort in my truck, was thinking nothing to crazy, a sub under the back seat.

Was curious of anyones ideas they would have to help me out in my search,

Im not a stereo guy so any info would help.

Fishinfooleric10@aol.com

It is all depends on how you want this thing and you said you didn't want to go crazy, but crazy meaning expensive or crazy bump in your truck. If you don't mind giving a budget I think I help you out a bit more and give you some ideas on what you should buy and what to expect. Oh and are you trying to tackle this yourself or are you bringing it somewhere?

ukrkoz

Suggesting something like this, is like suggesting a wife. Too many preferences. Have it installed by Best BUY or Fry's, inexpensive.
Personally, I vouch for most of Pioneer systems. Very happy.
As of a sub...
I have very similar thing in my truck. Fits underneath the rear bench. Decent sound for $100. Had it for 3 years by now, no issues.

Lanzar VCTBS8 8" 600 Watt Low Profile Amplified Car Subwoofer

If you want better bass, get Basslink 200. But it takes more space and you can not lay it flat. Too fat

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl.../dp/B000063TJY

Brocko04

As far as getting to crazy I'm not looking to be bouncing down the road. As far as budget I'm flexible. I seen these sub boxes online that fit underneath the bench seat in the back. Was considering those. Would I have to change out my deck at all and what kind of amp would I need. And as for installation I would get it installed somewhere. Thanks guys.

therewolf

I call my system "the spider".

The head unit is the head, located on the dash, the tough

part here is finding a double-din unit you like.

Since GM eliminated the radio position on the ignition switch

in the early 2000s, you will need a dataport adapter(@100$).

Make sure they turn down the door chime, or you will be able to hear

it in Tibet.

The Amp- located under the front seat beneath the console is the

body of the spider. The wires going to the doors are the legs of the spider.

The speakers in the doors are the spider's feet.

ukrkoz

I had mine installed myself, but mine is 2000 truck. Have no doubt, they made it much more complicated for your year.
To connect a sub, you must have a head unit, or stereo, with sub outputs. Unless you have separate sub from the factory, chances of factory stereo to have them are slim to none. Hence, the head unit has to go and be replaced.
It's less than and hr job on mine, and I had it done several times, but like I said before....
Yours should still be 1.5 DIN, unless they changed it.
Look at something like this, e.g.:

to see, how much features you can pack into a car stereo. It was $350.
Pioneer unit with similar package will cost around $700. But then again, I vouch for Pioneers. I had some like 5 of them through last years, and I had only the best experience with them.

chevyc1500

The best thing that ive heard in one of those trucks is a product alpine makes. I do work at a audio and video shop and im an alpine dealer and also JL which are two top of the line brands and alpines premade ported box with the 8 inch type R sounds great in a cab truck. They are about 200-250 depends on where you get it but it has just as good sound quality as JL. Then I would upgrade the door speakers and add what is call a power pack amp it actually fits behide your radio but only sounds good if you have an aftermarket deck. it is rated at 45x4 watts and which is a big upgrade than an aftermarket deck which is rated at 18x4 rms watts. that is a great sounding system that a lot of our customers like and it isn't very big and will fit underneath your back seat. we usually only put an 500 watt rms amp on that sub btw. it does come prewired in the box at 4 ohms. so if you get two and run them to read 2 ohms and put a 2 ohm 500 watt amp on it sounds like 10's in a truck.

ukrkoz

Pioneer units are mostly rated 54 or 50 x 4 watts. Mine has Mosfet built in amp, 54 x 4. If you want to bad mouth aftermarket units, stick to watts, not show Alpine power in watts and aftermarket unit power in rms.

But anyhow. Hey, Brocko, you do not need to pull head unit out to install powered sub.
This is what I have for my Basslink in my Camry:




and that adapter connects directly to any speaker wires.
You will still have to have power and off wire connected. But it's much less headache than to pull your headunit out and replace it with aftermarket stereo with sub outputs.

chevyc1500

All my watts were in rms. and no aftermarket head unit comes more than 18x4 rms. max watts means nothing just a selling technique. I've had to go to training for all this and yea you can use a SNI15 that is were you tap into speaker wire and convert into RCAs but factory units only have 1v and most new aftermarket head units put out can put out 2-4 witch is already double you can even get up to 5v and volts give a cleaner and better signal to the amp which makes everything healthier and sounds 10 times better.

Brocko04

So can I use any sub with this adapter? I don't like the idea of changing out my head unit. maybe new set of speakers but keep head unit stock