aapstealth

I have a 1996 K1500 and have gone through 2 4L60Es within a few months. Im on the 3rd transmission now which was shifting with no issues in the previous truck. Now I wont lie all the transmissions have been used but verified in good shape. I get them next to nothing due to a friend working at a salvage yard. After some research I found that the ground wires can cause the transmission to slip in certain gear which is my current problem 2nd slipping under a hard load or full throttle. No codes though. I'm looking to do the VCM update and was wondering based on the info Im reading do I really need the kit? Also the only thing I'm unclear of is what to do with the Blue wire removed from Pin 23? Thanks Some info on the Rewiring
http://www.oursuv.com/boards/GMSUV11...sages/966.html

wmiller

Subbing

Think I have the same issue. Just got this truck, it has almost 170k and I think the original tranny, but it is slipping 2-3. Just found out about this bulletin and believe this is my issue. My truck was built in November of 95.

wmiller

May have answered our question. Went outside and looked at my VCM. From what it looked like:

#1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.

#2. Open and remove connector J1, J2, and J3. Labeled 'Blue' 'Red' 'White/Gray/or Clear' on the VCM

#3. Pull the black w/ silver stripe wire out of the J3 / pin 18

#4. Insert black w/ silver stripe wire into J1 / pin 23

#5. Insert the jumper wire from J2 / pin 26 to J3 / pin 18 (where you pulled the first wire from)

#6. Reconnect the connector and battery terminal and you should be set.

I am just confused on a couple things.

#1. How to put a wire into the connectors. Will they just push in and be set? I wouldn't think so, but maybe.

#2. And I read somewhere that J3 / pin 18 was a black w/ white stripe wire. But on my VCM J3 / pin 17 is black w/ white stripe and J3 / pin 18 is a black w/ silver stripe.

Edit: Oh, and 1 more question. How do I remove that wire? The TSB says there is a special tool to remove the wire. Don't want to spend $100 on a stupid tool to pull out a single wire, can it just be gently pulled out?

RacerX

Wm, use a pick. You can get a set of picks from Autozone for like $7 for a set of 4. Try not to damge the harness but they come out just like that.

Other dude, stop buying junk yard motors and expecting them to be like brand new. They were junk when they were brought there.

wmiller

Just push them out from the other side with the pick? Seems easy enough, just don't want to damage the connectors...

RacerX

nah, you dont want to damage the plastic harness because that is the only thing keeping the wires in place. You finesse them from the back and them push them out from the front GENTLY.

wmiller

Ok, so I did this today. Part was $55 for a few inches of wire. but it has special connectors on the end so you gotta fork up the cash for this part. But install was pretty simple. Didn't need any of the special tools listed, just a flat blade screw driver and a straighten out staple (or paper clip, etc etc). Install was pretty much as I described earlier. You will need the screw driver to remove the connectors, open the connectors, and the remove the plastic protectors off of the connectors, then use the staple or paper clip to cut the hole for the new wires. Just make sure you hit the right pins and be careful not to break anything. Truck drives sooooo much better after doing this.

aapstealth

I also finished mine. What I did was run to U-Pull it and cut the 2 connectors needed for the ECU off another truck. Then made my own jumper wire, Im going to write up a DIY with pics to help out those in the future.

wmiller

I actually thought about that! But I wanted this done asap, and with work I wouldn't have been able to get to a pick n pull for awhile, plus it is effing freezing here right now, so the thought of running through a snow covered junkyard didn't sound to appealing.

RacerX

Freezing in Texas?