01 oil burning
#1
01 oil burning
I just got my first suburban at the end of November it’s a 2001 1500 and had 80,050 miles on it when I purchased, it now has 83,450. After about 2,500 miles my low oil light came on and I checked it about ½ to ¾ of a quart low but I figured it was no big deal so I topped it off. But now around 1,000 later my light came on again. I did go up to WI this weekend but its only about 2.5 hours each way so I didn’t think it was that much. According to the dealership I should not need an oil change till 85,000 miles. I do not see any leaks but I do park in the grass so it would be hard to notice… should I be using special oil at this mileage or are these trucks known for burning oil, I plan to tow my mini cooper this summer with this truck so I need to know if I should just keep an extra couple quarts in the truck or if there is a known problem for the 2001?
#2
Administrator
Might want to consider servicing the PCV...
Check your spark plugs for any excessive oiling to see if a particular cylinder is a problem...
Its always a good idea to carry a quart or two of oil with you in any road trip...
I keep an unopened quart in a zip lock bag in the jack stowage area of my 07...
Check your spark plugs for any excessive oiling to see if a particular cylinder is a problem...
Its always a good idea to carry a quart or two of oil with you in any road trip...
I keep an unopened quart in a zip lock bag in the jack stowage area of my 07...
#4
That is a good idea ill keep a couple quarts on the back, and ill check the spark plugs tonigh,
This my be a dumb questions but what is the PCV is it an easy fix to just put in a new one? i can change oil spark plugs and breaks but i havent really ever had to do much more...
This my be a dumb questions but what is the PCV is it an easy fix to just put in a new one? i can change oil spark plugs and breaks but i havent really ever had to do much more...
#5
Super Moderator
Your Burb it's 12yo now ! Even with 83K (which is not all that much) do you know what has actually been done to it, to keep the maintenance up good ?
You could (at your leisure and pocketbook limits) start nibbling at the minor stuff. Maybe pick a project a month. A new Belt, Flush the Radiator, Hoses, Plugs... just keep picking at it a little bit at a time. No telling what you'll run across that was about to fail, and, once that item is replaced, you got years of reliable service ahead of you.
You know, there's Burbs/Trucks on this Forum, which have 250+K miles on them !
You could (at your leisure and pocketbook limits) start nibbling at the minor stuff. Maybe pick a project a month. A new Belt, Flush the Radiator, Hoses, Plugs... just keep picking at it a little bit at a time. No telling what you'll run across that was about to fail, and, once that item is replaced, you got years of reliable service ahead of you.
You know, there's Burbs/Trucks on this Forum, which have 250+K miles on them !
Last edited by SWHouston; March 4th, 2013 at 1:45 PM.
#6
No idea about the past service it has new tires good whiper blades and ran well when i bought it so im assuming so, the carfax at the dealer said there were no accidents.
Any recomendations or maybe a list of things to look at changing myself? I was going to do spark plugs this weekend and breaks in april before i start pulling the trailer.
Any recomendations or maybe a list of things to look at changing myself? I was going to do spark plugs this weekend and breaks in april before i start pulling the trailer.
#7
Super Moderator
You really shouldn't do that !
Just do checks around it, look at the Filters, just as easy to put a new one in when you do that. Are the Tires all the same size? Are they the ones that are supposed to be on it? Many times others put really cheep Tires on something they're going to get rid of !
If you're going to Tow, don't be afraid to air the Tires well up toward their Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (stamped on the sidewall), they get better mileage and perform MUCH better with those higher pressures in them.
Is your Hitch Assembly tight ? Do you have the right Ball size, and is it or anything related to your tow, at or above the rated GTW ? (gross towing weight)
ie: If you're rated at 6000 lbs, get a Hitch or other parts rated at that, or higher capacity. NO WEAK LINKS in that chain !!
There may be a Filter inside in the A/C system. Do a Temperature differential check on it. You should have a >12 degree drop from ambient to what's coming out the ducts. Then there should be a >30 degree rise between ambient and the duct air when the Heaters are on. (allow engine to reach normal operating temp)
Get under it...
Look if there's any damage, check the integrity of the Flexible Brake Lines, see if there's any rust or dents in the Exhaust System. Look for Oil seepage, Shocks included.
Just don't leave anything beyond you making an observation of that system/part. After you know where it is, you'll know where it's going, and can better make estimate how long you have before a failure.
Keep notes if you want...prioritize !
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#8
Thanks for the help! I just ran to the auto parts store on lunch and got a couple quarts of oil to have on hand in the truck. I will take a look at everything i can this weekend and keep a note of what i change out, the tires are what they should be on the cheaper side but not bad at all. I believe i have the tow package the hitch looks like it was original. Also what is the PCV valve mentioned above is this an inexpensive thing i can do or should i have a mechanic look at it?
#9
Administrator
If the oil consumption persists, you might try switching to a hi-mileage oil to see if it helps.
Do a compression test when you have the plugs out. Remember the throttle butterfly(s) has to be held open while cranking.
Do a compression test when you have the plugs out. Remember the throttle butterfly(s) has to be held open while cranking.
#10
Super Moderator
A picture is worth a thousand words !
Don't forget the internet, videos on all kinds of things YOU can do.
PCV Valve Ref:
1)
2) Change Your Own PCV Valve