07 Power lift Gate-Drains Battery
#1
07 Power lift Gate-Drains Battery
I purchased a used 2007 Tahoe which I love so far except for one issue . . . if we use the power lift gate more than once or twice when the vehicle is not running it drains the battery. Then we have to jump it to get started. It took us a while to figure out what was causing it but every time it's happened we had used the power lift gate. Has anyone else had this problem? I haven't taken it to the dealer yet but wondered if any of you had found a solution.
Thanks! Liz
Thanks! Liz
#2
CF Senior Member
there is a lot of information on this site and the Internet about battery issues on this truck. 1st make sure your battery is good, if stock it is probably bad anyway. We have all had battery/charging issues for various reasons. there could be many reasons why you are having issues, could just be the battery or could be other charging system issues that your local dealer could help confirm that you have the update installed on your PCM
#4
CF Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Upstate NY
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I just had the same issue with my 2007 Suburban. The battery was bad. When I bought the new battery the guy told me he see/replaces a ton of bad battery's in 2007 Tahoe/Suburbans.
My vote your battery is Bad, most places that sell batteries will do a free test on the battery.
Good Luck
My vote your battery is Bad, most places that sell batteries will do a free test on the battery.
Good Luck
#5
Thanks for the info everyone! I had the battery checked after the first time it happened and was told that it was still good. Is there a brand of battery that seems to work better with this vehicle . . . or one that I should steer clear of if/when I do need to replace it?
On a side note: It sat at in airport parking lot for 4 days when the temps were near zero a few weeks ago. When I returned it fired right up. I thought that if the battery were bad that might have been the true test. Liz
On a side note: It sat at in airport parking lot for 4 days when the temps were near zero a few weeks ago. When I returned it fired right up. I thought that if the battery were bad that might have been the true test. Liz
#6
CF Senior Member
you are right about sitting for 4 days in very cold weather, that would probably kill a bad battery. If it is the original battery I would still replace it ASAP before it does die on you. if you replace one just get the most CCA (cold cranking amps) you can for your budget. The stock has 615 I think, you can spend $70 - $250 and get 700+ pretty easy. I just put in the Duralast Platinum that has 750 CCA and 950 CA.
#7
Administrator
IT would be wise to have the gas struts checked out also, if they are weak it will make the motor work harder and draw more current to lift the door, consider having the struts replaced or at least checked, if you do replace be sure to do them in pairs....
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#8
Administrator
IMPORTANT: if you replace them yourself have a helper on hand the rear hatch is heavy.
As a general safety practice also remove the portion that connects to the hatch last and reattach the new one to the hatch first, should you loose grip of the door this prevents the unattached end of the strut from punching thru the glass if the hatch is dropped....
As a general safety practice also remove the portion that connects to the hatch last and reattach the new one to the hatch first, should you loose grip of the door this prevents the unattached end of the strut from punching thru the glass if the hatch is dropped....
#10
Administrator
Actually I think it was your advice sensei 73shark, I think you may have mentioned it in a previous conversation regarding a Z28 that was once in your possession.. I could be wrong thou....