Lodestar

It is possible a dealer made the repair while still under powertrain warranty. Any dealer can pull up warranty repairs or open/completed campaigns performed on a GM vehicle. As far as customer pay repairs go, only the dealer that performed the repair will usually have that history based on the VIN.

Unfortunately, there is no current campaign to replace the old style valve cover with the new design. The same goes for the oil deflector shield in the oil pan.

Lodestar

I do, actually, have some pointers for the deflector installation. I also happen to have a few pics to share on the process.

The process itself is not particularly complex, but if your vehicle is a 4x4 it will be a bit more time consuming due to the fact that the front differential housing assembly must be removed to gain access to the oil pan for removal.

First, I want to point out something to look for when replacing the valve cover. The PCV rubber elbow that connects to the valve cover may have split (which is why the valve cover is coated with a film of oil and dirt around the PCV port) from age and heat, causing an unsuspecting intake leak. This can introduce unmetered air into the engine and cause the CEL to come on with a lean code. Make sure you inspect the PCV hose carefully and replace defective parts. Also, there is no need to remove each ignition coil to gain access to the valve cover bolts. Just remove the bolts that secure the coil bracket to the valve cover and the complete coil and bracket assembly will come off as one unit giving unrestricted access to the valve cover for removal. Make sure and take extra care to clean and degrease the gasket sealing surface completely before installing new cover. The cleaner the better to prevent oil leaks.

Oil Deflector -
Once the front differential is out of the way (if you have a 4x4), you will have complete access to remove the pan bolts. Take the oil filter off and drain it. Then put it back on to prevent dirt and grit from getting in the oil ports. You can replace the filter after the pan is re-installed.
There will be two bottom bell housing bolts to remove along with a couple of bolts that secure the left and right side plastic bell housing covers. The cover on the passenger side is partially held in place by the starter motor but there is no need to remove the starter. The cover will pull out of the way just enough for the oil pan to clear for removal.

ALSO, there will be some interference between the front of the oil pan and the hardline of the power steering rack assembly. It is best to disconnect the hardline from the steering rack and gently bend it down and out of the way just enough for the front of the pan to clear the steering rack. Be sure to have a spare o-ring seal handy for the hardline fitting in case the seal is damaged when removing the hardline.

Once the oil pan is off, you will find the original pan gasket to be secured with two small rivets. Remove the rivets using a drill - 9/32" worked fine on mine - and don't worry about installing new rivets to hold the gasket in place. Just put two pan bolts into the pan holes, one on each side, and thread them through the matching gasket holes a few turns to hold the gasket in place for installation. Take whatever time is necessary to CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN the pan and engine sealing surfaces with solvent, plastic brushes, rags, etc. DO NOT use an air grinder or any type of abrasive pad that removes metal, as that is very bad practice and may result in oil leaks due to distorted surfaces. Clean out any sludge or build up inside the pan. I will continue this with a following post.

Lodestar

Remove the relief valve (17 mm wrench If I remember), clean the threads, install the shield, and reinstall valve/shield assembly. Torque to 20-22 ft/lb. Thread-locker compound is not necessary but can be used sparingly if you desire.

Preparation for Installation:
Run a 5mm bead of Ultra Gray sealant onto the two joints that form between the front engine timing cover and engine block - where the pan sealing surface mates up. Also run two 5mm thick beads at the rear cover gasket joints. Do not use sealant on the pan gasket or anywhere else. It is not necessary as long as the sealing surfaces are clean, shiny, and free of oil and dirt. Install the pan with bolts. Don't tighten completely until ALL bolts are installed.

1. For vehicles with a 4L60-E/4L70-E automatic transmission, install the 2 lower transmission bolts until snug.

1. Tighten the oil pan and oil pan-to-oil pan front cover bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
2. Tighten the oil pan-to-rear cover bolts to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
3. Tighten the transmission bolts/stud to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).

Everything else is reverse order of removal.

in2pro

Excellent write up Lodestar !

I am not experiencing any oil leaks or consumption, but I will definitely check the elbow fitting
As for that shield, I was expecting something a bit more grand and elaborate... there really is not much to it

Lodestar

Thank you In2pro.
I just returned from a 1750 mile trip to Florida. I made those repairs right before we left. I figured the burb would let me know if I did the right thing by running 70 to 80 mph most of the way. I think she is feeling much better now. It used just less than half a quart of 5W-30 - which is completely within my expectations for a 130,000 mile engine!

Before that I was using over three quarts on similar runs.

94burbin

Is that Darth Vader helmet looking thing the "deflector"?

cheapestgmparts.com... #12639759 (S)DEFLECTOR $2.26

seems like a lot of work for such a misc. looking part.

Lodestar

Ha...yes it is. And unfortunately, it IS a fair bit of labor to replace a two dollar part that GM design engineers really should have had a grip on.

It is a necessary part of the equation though if you have one of the earlier (2007 -) Active Fuel Management engines.

94burbin

Ok so the newer Active Fuel Management engines already have this part installed? What do you think a dealer would charge to install it in an engine that doesn't have one?

Also, please clarify what the newer GM valve cover design improves?
(Valve cover I am willing do myself in the cold, but the deflector will need to wait for warmer temps.)

Lodestar

The Latest Bulletin Applies to These Vehicles:

<table cellpadding="1" cellspacing="2"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td>Models:</td> <td>2007-2011 Cadillac Escalade Models
2007-2011 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado 1500, Suburban, Tahoe
2010-2011 Chevrolet Camaro
2010-2012 Chevrolet Colorado
2007-2011 GMC Sierra 1500, Sierra Denali, Yukon Models
2010-2012 GMC Canyon
2008-2009 Pontiac G8 GT

Built Prior to February 1, 2011 (Updated Valve Cover) and October 2010 (AFM Shield)
Equipped with Any of the Following Engines:
<table cellpadding="1" cellspacing="2"> <tbody><tr valign="top"><td>-</td> <td>Aluminum Block V8 Engine with Active Fuel Management (AFM) (RPOs LH9, L94, LZ1, L99, LC9, LH6, L76, L92, LFA (Hybrid)) </td> </tr> <tr valign="top"><td>-</td> <td>Iron Block V8 Engine with Active Fuel Management (AFM) (RPOs LMG, LY5) </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Attention:
This bulletin does not apply to the Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer and GMC Envoy equipped with LH6 due to a different design oil pan and AFM pressure relief valve. This has been revised to add the 2010-2012 Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon, RPO LH9 and update the Labor Operation to the Global Labor Code (GLC). Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-06-01-008I (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
Dealers should charge anywhere from 5.5 to 8 hours labor for customer pay depending on the needs of the vehicle. Also, attached is a labor chart from the latest bulletin on this procedure showing published times. These are unique repairs and will not be listed in any of the Industry Standard Labor Guides. Be aware of some dealers over-charging for this repair.

Valve Cover:
If you look closely at the photos I posted earlier in this thread, you will see the primary difference between the two covers is the relocated and redesigned PCV oil drain opening inside the cover. This reduces the problem of excess oil being sucked or plashed into the intake system through the PCV orifice by overactive lifters, and also allows for improved oil draining and less clogging compared to the old design. When you inspect your old cover you may find some clogging of the tiny drain holes located close to the PCV orifice where the vent hose connects to the cover.

94burbin

wow, top notch info!

thanks Lodestar!!!