2001 Suburban overheating with A/C on
July 25th, 2014, 7:29 PM
#21
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i have a 02 Sub 5.3 130k. Living in Phoenix, Az. I am also having the same overheating problem when at idle.
Ive checked everything, and everything checks out. the flushing, the replacing. problem is still there. I've dump too much money into chasing a problem that really isnt there. My Suburban is Black in color. After speaking with many and I mean many Sub & Tahoe owners. Ive found this problem is common. But the only ones with the overheating issues are the ones that are black.
I have recently added a single 14in hayden fan. Seems to help a bit. I will be adding another one shortly and removing the drive belt fan.
Secondly, While pricing my e-fans I found a radiator mist system that I have installed, anytime the temp starts rising from idling too long, I just give it a blast for about 5 secs and it will instantly be back to normal. also helps when pulling a load up a steep grade. Hayden also makes the mist system. the only problem is finding where to put the 2.5 gallon res.
Ive checked everything, and everything checks out. the flushing, the replacing. problem is still there. I've dump too much money into chasing a problem that really isnt there. My Suburban is Black in color. After speaking with many and I mean many Sub & Tahoe owners. Ive found this problem is common. But the only ones with the overheating issues are the ones that are black.
I have recently added a single 14in hayden fan. Seems to help a bit. I will be adding another one shortly and removing the drive belt fan.
Secondly, While pricing my e-fans I found a radiator mist system that I have installed, anytime the temp starts rising from idling too long, I just give it a blast for about 5 secs and it will instantly be back to normal. also helps when pulling a load up a steep grade. Hayden also makes the mist system. the only problem is finding where to put the 2.5 gallon res.
July 27th, 2014, 9:28 PM
#22
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The op has been very good so far but what about the coolant flow? Is it enough to cool with the extra heat created by the ac at idle? He revved it up helping it cool before going home. Even at low speed the idle/flow is raised some. The op has only said the water pump appears to have been changed. I wonder if the pump is not putting out enough flow? Op has not said what brand or quality. I had a cheap pump with a under size impeller that cooled only under the best conditions. Just trying another route.
July 28th, 2014, 11:23 AM
#23
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I'd do a temperature verification. Get one of those AC spike/probe thermometers, and check the temp of the coolant against the reading inside.
Just start off cold with the RCap off, and see how consistent the readings are.
Just start off cold with the RCap off, and see how consistent the readings are.
July 28th, 2014, 12:15 PM
#24
Personally, I just attributed it to a lack of airflow when idling.
I had a breakdown on my '01 a few years back - spun the pinion bearing on the rear end and we were dead in the water. We were on the side of the interstate and it was 104°. I wanted to run the A/C while waiting for the tow truck to keep the kids cool, but soon the engine temp spiked to 230° so I shut it down.
Had a similar issue recently with my '08; again, I'm just writing it off as a lack of airflow when idling. We were doing some moderate offroading outside of Moab, Ut (Gemini Bridges trail). Ambient temperature was right around 100°, we were going very slow on a rocky trail, and had the A/C running. Both engine and trans temps were hovering around 230°. Each time we stopped, I'd pop the hood and it felt like a blast furnace. I'd let it idle with the hood open, and temps would return to 200° on the trans and 210° on the engine, and then we'd move on.
Between the radiator, A/C condenser and trans cooler (and on my '08 the oil cooler), that's a lot of heat you're trying to dissipate with less-than-optimal air flow.
And yes, I'll pre-empt the local GM critic by saying it's a design flaw in these POS trucks. But I've never been enamored with electric fans, so no swap-outs for me.
I had a breakdown on my '01 a few years back - spun the pinion bearing on the rear end and we were dead in the water. We were on the side of the interstate and it was 104°. I wanted to run the A/C while waiting for the tow truck to keep the kids cool, but soon the engine temp spiked to 230° so I shut it down.
Had a similar issue recently with my '08; again, I'm just writing it off as a lack of airflow when idling. We were doing some moderate offroading outside of Moab, Ut (Gemini Bridges trail). Ambient temperature was right around 100°, we were going very slow on a rocky trail, and had the A/C running. Both engine and trans temps were hovering around 230°. Each time we stopped, I'd pop the hood and it felt like a blast furnace. I'd let it idle with the hood open, and temps would return to 200° on the trans and 210° on the engine, and then we'd move on.
Between the radiator, A/C condenser and trans cooler (and on my '08 the oil cooler), that's a lot of heat you're trying to dissipate with less-than-optimal air flow.
And yes, I'll pre-empt the local GM critic by saying it's a design flaw in these POS trucks. But I've never been enamored with electric fans, so no swap-outs for me.
July 28th, 2014, 10:39 PM
#25
You see the main problem is, and all of the problem cars have the exact same thing in common, is the clutch fan. At ilde the clutch fans just can't move air like electrics. Our 07 with 5.3L has dual Electric fans. And they kick *** I must say. Never had the motor run over 210*. The transmission however is under cooled by the in radiator cooling. It sees 200* way too often. But the A/C is always freezing cold. You should see how much air these fans can move when they are on high and when at the same time the alternator in this thing is running at 15.2+ volts. Sounds like a plane in front of the car...
The best fix is to buy some electric fans and controllers.
The cheap/easy fix is to put the truck in Park or Neutral, and idle it at 1,500~2,000 rpm. This will allow the water pump to provide much more flow through the radiator and block, increased transmission fluid flow to cooler, and when the clutch fan engages it will really move some air. This will offer a cool motor, cool transmission, and cold a/c. And its always best to set the a/c to max coldness when in hot conditions because usually the heater taps for the heater core will get shut off when set to max coldness. This will allow that extra bit of flow to go through the radiator and get cooled off rather than go through the heater core and return to the block just as hot...
The best fix is to buy some electric fans and controllers.
The cheap/easy fix is to put the truck in Park or Neutral, and idle it at 1,500~2,000 rpm. This will allow the water pump to provide much more flow through the radiator and block, increased transmission fluid flow to cooler, and when the clutch fan engages it will really move some air. This will offer a cool motor, cool transmission, and cold a/c. And its always best to set the a/c to max coldness when in hot conditions because usually the heater taps for the heater core will get shut off when set to max coldness. This will allow that extra bit of flow to go through the radiator and get cooled off rather than go through the heater core and return to the block just as hot...
Last edited by Joe In NY; July 29th, 2014 at 8:28 AM.
September 14th, 2017, 11:23 AM
#26
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2001 Suburban overheating with A/C on
Hey all, great forum here lots to read. Unfortunately my first post is not what I'd like it to be. I have a 2001 1500 4x4 Suburban 5.3 115k on the clock.
I bought the vehicle a week ago so I'm not very familiar with it, and also this is my first Chevy, I've always owned Toyotas.
Anyways on to the problem: I've noticed that when I've driven the truck for more than 10 miles giving it ample time to fully warm up the A/C will become warm at idle, and the rear air is always lagging behind, and even warmer than the dash vents.
While idling yesterday (outside temps 117, Phoenix, Az) I was talking to a friend I had run into, and left my truck running in the sun. The A/C was on full blast and in the space of about 30 minutes the truck reached 235*. After seeing this I watched awhile longer, and it eventually made it to 240. At this point I revved the engine, cooled it off and went home. The truck ran great somewhere between 208-212 per my scan tool. When I arrived home, I let it idle again for about 20 minutes, sure enough up crept the temperature on both the scan tool and my dash gauge (ruling out a sensor issue).
Since I have no problems at cruising speeds, or even at slow speeds I assumed the fan clutch was to blame. I switched that out for a severe duty clutch and expected a change. No change, temperature has no limit idling with A/C on and will keep getting hotter up to and maybe beyond 240. So, I pulled the radiator, and since the truck is new to me, I went ahead and bought another, and a thermostat to go with it. Changed them out, same problem. Scangauge runs 208-212 around town, and when idling for more than 5-6mins temp creeps, air warms, and she heats up.
SO...Wondering if these fan clutches are just weak, I add some water wetter to my coolant mix, and have my mechanic-per his suggestion- install a 14" Hayden electric fan on the radiator to be used in tandem with the A/C when it is turned on. This reduced temperatures cruising around town in 115* pretty good overall running between 204-208*. Got home, tried to idle again for about 5-6 minutes, sure enough temperature hits 224 after 5-8 minutes, keeps going and I shut it down at 235* at this point with the electric fan going as well, the air had become hot and humid, if that indicates anything.
The water pump looks new, seems to function correctly, but could this be the cause of the problem? There's no oil in coolant or vice versa, no leaks, no smoke out of the exhaust. The truck doesn't do this when the A/C is off it will run aorund 215-220 and stay there! I refuse to believe this is normal for these engines to heat up like this at idle, even at 115* outside, or am I just putting too much load on the system in extreme temperatures?
I have no idea where to go from here, any ideas are much appreciated.
I bought the vehicle a week ago so I'm not very familiar with it, and also this is my first Chevy, I've always owned Toyotas.
Anyways on to the problem: I've noticed that when I've driven the truck for more than 10 miles giving it ample time to fully warm up the A/C will become warm at idle, and the rear air is always lagging behind, and even warmer than the dash vents.While idling yesterday (outside temps 117, Phoenix, Az) I was talking to a friend I had run into, and left my truck running in the sun. The A/C was on full blast and in the space of about 30 minutes the truck reached 235*. After seeing this I watched awhile longer, and it eventually made it to 240. At this point I revved the engine, cooled it off and went home. The truck ran great somewhere between 208-212 per my scan tool. When I arrived home, I let it idle again for about 20 minutes, sure enough up crept the temperature on both the scan tool and my dash gauge (ruling out a sensor issue).
Since I have no problems at cruising speeds, or even at slow speeds I assumed the fan clutch was to blame. I switched that out for a severe duty clutch and expected a change. No change, temperature has no limit idling with A/C on and will keep getting hotter up to and maybe beyond 240. So, I pulled the radiator, and since the truck is new to me, I went ahead and bought another, and a thermostat to go with it. Changed them out, same problem. Scangauge runs 208-212 around town, and when idling for more than 5-6mins temp creeps, air warms, and she heats up.
SO...Wondering if these fan clutches are just weak, I add some water wetter to my coolant mix, and have my mechanic-per his suggestion- install a 14" Hayden electric fan on the radiator to be used in tandem with the A/C when it is turned on. This reduced temperatures cruising around town in 115* pretty good overall running between 204-208*. Got home, tried to idle again for about 5-6 minutes, sure enough temperature hits 224 after 5-8 minutes, keeps going and I shut it down at 235* at this point with the electric fan going as well, the air had become hot and humid, if that indicates anything.
The water pump looks new, seems to function correctly, but could this be the cause of the problem? There's no oil in coolant or vice versa, no leaks, no smoke out of the exhaust. The truck doesn't do this when the A/C is off it will run aorund 215-220 and stay there! I refuse to believe this is normal for these engines to heat up like this at idle, even at 115* outside, or am I just putting too much load on the system in extreme temperatures?
I have no idea where to go from here, any ideas are much appreciated.
September 14th, 2017, 9:18 PM
#27
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Welcome to the forum.
Make sure the lower radiator hose still has the spring in it that prevents it from collapsing and restricted coolant flow. Also check the R134a charge in the A/C.
Make sure the lower radiator hose still has the spring in it that prevents it from collapsing and restricted coolant flow. Also check the R134a charge in the A/C.
August 8th, 2018, 4:41 PM
#28
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Hot Hot Hot
hello Blackburb hey Budd did you fix the overheating problem when running the a/c on at idle or at a stop light or on heavy traffic I'm having the same problem and I already did new fan clutch new thermostat radiator flush at shop cleaned the dust out from the condenser and still having that problem with temp rising with a/c on only ...thinking about replacing new water pump tho looks new and no leaks ...I would much appreciate if you get back with me ...also I too have a black yukon 2004 5.3 l and live in arizona 🌞
August 19th, 2018, 5:05 PM
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Same issue with 02 Silverado.. Overheats with ac on
i got the same issue.
the temp spikes to 230-240 when the ac is running.
If ac is turned off will drop to 200 pretty quick and if I turn the heater on it will drop to my normal 190-195 that it has always ran at for the past 16 years.
I have pulled the radiator and water pump and thermostat which I am replacing all of those plus the fan clutch . Just wondering if I am wasting my time because doesn’t seem any of these fixed the problem for everyone here.
Was a fix found yet?
one different issue I have noticed was my oil gauge moved all over the place when I’m idling , but will sit still while driving at a normal speed.
It was way worse before I flushed out the cooling system and some sludge came out
the temp spikes to 230-240 when the ac is running.
If ac is turned off will drop to 200 pretty quick and if I turn the heater on it will drop to my normal 190-195 that it has always ran at for the past 16 years.
I have pulled the radiator and water pump and thermostat which I am replacing all of those plus the fan clutch . Just wondering if I am wasting my time because doesn’t seem any of these fixed the problem for everyone here.
Was a fix found yet?
one different issue I have noticed was my oil gauge moved all over the place when I’m idling , but will sit still while driving at a normal speed.
It was way worse before I flushed out the cooling system and some sludge came out
Last edited by Bheid4512; August 19th, 2018 at 5:35 PM.
September 5th, 2018, 2:25 PM
#30
Same thing with my '01 Burb. What gets me is I can drive the truck for 20 minutes at its normal operating temp of about 180 or 190, then the needle rises whether I'm idling or driving through town. New thermostat, hoses and coolant, a newer water pump AND i cleaned the radiator fins as well as pulled the fan clutch and soaked the bi metal coil with PB Blaster and air dried that. AC runs cold but I have to turn that off and put on the heat to get the needle to drop. That the clutch works fine for 20 minutes an then doesn't makes no sense to me. There is plenty of new coolant. I am out of ideas other than to park the Burb in extreme heat and use it only in cooler weather, and since I intended to drive the Burb in the winter verses my car any way, this is all I can come up with.