July 22nd, 2015, 11:44 AM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Exterior
- Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2006 GMT800 How to Install Front Skid Plate
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Browse all: Exterior
2001 Tahoe oil leak
August 19th, 2010, 12:19 PM
#31
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In2pro,
Yes at first it started with an oil leak. I had the dealer look at it. They told me it was a remain seal. Had it replaced. Since then the dealer has looked it 3-4 times. They finally told me that I have a small oilpan gasket leak. However they claimed that the leak was not big enough to make it go through 2 qts. U believe them as I don't get any oil drops period. This this leads me to believe that it is burning it. Chevy did tell me that with 140+k miles it was normal to consume oil, but something tells me that otherwise.
Well what you are sayingvis true about the A/F, how do correct it? I am not getting any CEL or codes. Unlessvthw oxygenvsensors are going bad? I just changed the plugs and the air filter was changed less than 6k miles ago.
Thanks for the great input. Waiting on your reply.
Yes at first it started with an oil leak. I had the dealer look at it. They told me it was a remain seal. Had it replaced. Since then the dealer has looked it 3-4 times. They finally told me that I have a small oilpan gasket leak. However they claimed that the leak was not big enough to make it go through 2 qts. U believe them as I don't get any oil drops period. This this leads me to believe that it is burning it. Chevy did tell me that with 140+k miles it was normal to consume oil, but something tells me that otherwise.
Well what you are sayingvis true about the A/F, how do correct it? I am not getting any CEL or codes. Unlessvthw oxygenvsensors are going bad? I just changed the plugs and the air filter was changed less than 6k miles ago.
Thanks for the great input. Waiting on your reply.
August 20th, 2010, 3:23 AM
#32
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well guys I have done all the grunt work.
list of things I have done:
took out the plugs. they looked normal.
performed a compression test.150 all around
changed the plugs.
I am still consuming oil.
pretty much the only thing left is the oil pan gasket.I have black residue on my tahoe. the black smoke is most likely a rich A/F mixture. However, with oil issue it is hard to say
@ keithman, is your tahoe a 4x4? your quote for the oilpan is very competitive. Tell us where. I would go in a heart beat. The dealer o went wanted 500 for that job
I have recv'd 2 theories
Motor needs to be rebuilt.
heads need to be rebuilt
none of them are valid since no one can prove it. At least with out me forking over some serious cash. Even if the motor needs to-be replaced, I can pick up a new rebuilt motor from chevy for under 3k.(with a 3yr/100k mile warranty)
rebuilding the heads will still require me to invest about 1800. Even the head shop told me that reading the heads might cause the issue to get worse. He believes the oil rings have gone bad. thus needing a ring job. As you can see this points back to rebuilding the motor.
I will be switching to maxlife next month. I will keep you guys posted.
kman, let me know where you had you oilpan gasket replaced. by the I way I live in Garbage Grove!
list of things I have done:
took out the plugs. they looked normal.
performed a compression test.150 all around
changed the plugs.
I am still consuming oil.
pretty much the only thing left is the oil pan gasket.I have black residue on my tahoe. the black smoke is most likely a rich A/F mixture. However, with oil issue it is hard to say
@ keithman, is your tahoe a 4x4? your quote for the oilpan is very competitive. Tell us where. I would go in a heart beat. The dealer o went wanted 500 for that job
I have recv'd 2 theories
Motor needs to be rebuilt.
heads need to be rebuilt
none of them are valid since no one can prove it. At least with out me forking over some serious cash. Even if the motor needs to-be replaced, I can pick up a new rebuilt motor from chevy for under 3k.(with a 3yr/100k mile warranty)
rebuilding the heads will still require me to invest about 1800. Even the head shop told me that reading the heads might cause the issue to get worse. He believes the oil rings have gone bad. thus needing a ring job. As you can see this points back to rebuilding the motor.
I will be switching to maxlife next month. I will keep you guys posted.
kman, let me know where you had you oilpan gasket replaced. by the I way I live in Garbage Grove!
So far they have replaced the rear main, rear cover gasket, oil cooler block off plate gasket, drain plug, and now oil pan gasket. I'm almost $1000 into this leak.
I was to scared to look under the Tahoe today after I washed it to see if oil was still leaking. I'll do that tomorrow.
The person I bought this Tahoe from had the dealer change the oil every 3k miles (he gave me the receipts) with non-synthetic oil. As soon as I got the Tahoe I switched to Pennzoil Platinum. About 2,000 miles into the switch I noticed the leak starting to form. On cold starts the Tahoe has either piston slap or noisly lifters, not sure which since I switched oils.
When RC Performance did the oil pan gasket replacement I had them put in Mobil Clean 5000 (non-synthetic) 10w-30.
August 20th, 2010, 8:33 AM
#33
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
leak
My Tahoe is a 2wd, not 4x4. The shop I have been going to is RC Performance in Huntington Beach. Multiple people have said they are the best. Their website is: www.rcperformanceinc.com I just wish I could get this oil leak resolved. I'm glad to see I am not the only one with this issue.
So far they have replaced the rear main, rear cover gasket, oil cooler block off plate gasket, drain plug, and now oil pan gasket. I'm almost $1000 into this leak.
I was to scared to look under the Tahoe today after I washed it to see if oil was still leaking. I'll do that tomorrow.
The person I bought this Tahoe from had the dealer change the oil every 3k miles (he gave me the receipts) with non-synthetic oil. As soon as I got the Tahoe I switched to Pennzoil Platinum. About 2,000 miles into the switch I noticed the leak starting to form. On cold starts the Tahoe has either piston slap or noisly lifters, not sure which since I switched oils.
When RC Performance did the oil pan gasket replacement I had them put in Mobil Clean 5000 (non-synthetic) 10w-30.
So far they have replaced the rear main, rear cover gasket, oil cooler block off plate gasket, drain plug, and now oil pan gasket. I'm almost $1000 into this leak.
I was to scared to look under the Tahoe today after I washed it to see if oil was still leaking. I'll do that tomorrow.
The person I bought this Tahoe from had the dealer change the oil every 3k miles (he gave me the receipts) with non-synthetic oil. As soon as I got the Tahoe I switched to Pennzoil Platinum. About 2,000 miles into the switch I noticed the leak starting to form. On cold starts the Tahoe has either piston slap or noisly lifters, not sure which since I switched oils.
When RC Performance did the oil pan gasket replacement I had them put in Mobil Clean 5000 (non-synthetic) 10w-30.
Therefore, I am working on two issues the pan leak and burning of the oil. Now I am thinking I might have a bad fuel injector. 2pro mentioned something about a rich mixture will cause oil to then out. Now that I think about, I recall smelling fuel when I was doing the compression test. By the way the fuel system was disabled. I am pretty sure it has to be piston 3, 5 or 7. piston 2, 4, 6 or 8 didn't have the fuel smell. I'll have to borrow my buddies scanner to see if I have any codes. Now I need to figure out how to test an injector. Any ideas anyone?
So ask the shop for the dye test, make sure they don't charge you. Once they find the leak, have them repair it at discounted price emphasis on DISCOUNT.
Good luck and get back to us.
August 20th, 2010, 9:53 AM
#34
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From one tahoe owner to another, go back to the shop and have them put dye in the oil. This will tell them exactly where the leak is coming from. Let them run it or you drive it for a 1/2 a day. They will use a blacklight follow the leak . This WILL tell them where your leak is coming from. That is how the dealer found the minor leak through the oil pan gasket. The leak was at front passenger side of the oil pan. Like i said it is minor as in it doesn't drip at all. The bottom of the pan show oil moisture. However at this point I might just have it replaced just to rule it.
Therefore, I am working on two issues the pan leak and burning of the oil. Now I am thinking I might have a bad fuel injector. 2pro mentioned something about a rich mixture will cause oil to then out. Now that I think about, I recall smelling fuel when I was doing the compression test. By the way the fuel system was disabled. I am pretty sure it has to be piston 3, 5 or 7. piston 2, 4, 6 or 8 didn't have the fuel smell. I'll have to borrow my buddies scanner to see if I have any codes. Now I need to figure out how to test an injector. Any ideas anyone?
So ask the shop for the dye test, make sure they don't charge you. Once they find the leak, have them repair it at discounted price emphasis on DISCOUNT. Good luck and get back to us.
Therefore, I am working on two issues the pan leak and burning of the oil. Now I am thinking I might have a bad fuel injector. 2pro mentioned something about a rich mixture will cause oil to then out. Now that I think about, I recall smelling fuel when I was doing the compression test. By the way the fuel system was disabled. I am pretty sure it has to be piston 3, 5 or 7. piston 2, 4, 6 or 8 didn't have the fuel smell. I'll have to borrow my buddies scanner to see if I have any codes. Now I need to figure out how to test an injector. Any ideas anyone?
So ask the shop for the dye test, make sure they don't charge you. Once they find the leak, have them repair it at discounted price emphasis on DISCOUNT.
Good luck and get back to us.
They put dye in the oil when I went to pick up the Tahoe. They said if I see the oil leak to bring it back in and they will use a UV light.
Last time I took the Tahoe in I put dye in the oil 2 days before I took it in. They were unable to find exactly where the leak was coming from.
August 23rd, 2010, 3:24 PM
#35
Administrator
01z71: If they replaced the rear main seal, they should have also replaced the pan gasket. So if the pan gasket is leaking now, then they should fix on their dime.
August 23rd, 2010, 4:51 PM
#36
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Found this TSB. What's the deal?
GM TSB# 06-06-01-019B (came out 06-12-2007)
Subject: Information on Gradual Coolant Loss Over Time With NO EVIDENCE OF LEAK FOUND
Models:
2004-2006 Buic Rainier
2001-2006 Cadillac Escalade
2001-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Blazer, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, and Trailblazer
2001-2006 GMC Envoy, Jimmy, Sierra, and Yukon
2001-2005 Oldsmobile Bravada
2005-2006 SAAB 9-7X
With 4.8L or 5.3L VORTEC GenII, GenIV; V8 engine (VIN's V,T,M,M,Z --RPO's LR4, LM7, LH6, L33, and L59
Information:
Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very specific area.
Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head.
Important: If the cylinder head(s) are Not a Castech casting, follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss.
Refer to the following illustrations on how to identify Castech casting and/or the very specific areas of the cylinder head(s) for a coolant leak from porosity.
If the cylinder head(s) is a Castech casting (1), inspect the area around the five oil drain holes for witness marks indicating coolant seepage over time (2).
Important: If No evidence of coolant loss is found on inspection of Castech casting cylinder head(s), follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss.
The crack location can be found in any of the five cylinder head(s) oil drains. This can be seen as a clean or shiny area, on an otherwise stained surface (1). Pressurizing the cooling system at this time may reveal coolant, air, or a combination, weeping in the described area. If inspection reveals evidence of coolant witness marks (1), replace the entire cylinder head(s) assembly.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
GM TSB# 06-06-01-019B (came out 06-12-2007)
Subject: Information on Gradual Coolant Loss Over Time With NO EVIDENCE OF LEAK FOUND
Models:
2004-2006 Buic Rainier
2001-2006 Cadillac Escalade
2001-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Blazer, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, and Trailblazer
2001-2006 GMC Envoy, Jimmy, Sierra, and Yukon
2001-2005 Oldsmobile Bravada
2005-2006 SAAB 9-7X
With 4.8L or 5.3L VORTEC GenII, GenIV; V8 engine (VIN's V,T,M,M,Z --RPO's LR4, LM7, LH6, L33, and L59
Information:
Some vehicles may experience a gradual coolant loss over time. A very low percentage of cylinder head(s) manufactured with an embossed Castech logo may develop a porosity crack in a very specific area.
Inspect the cylinder head assembly to determine if the casting was manufactured by Castech. This can be accomplished by inspecting for their casting logo located on top of the intake port, under the rocker arm support rail and in the spring deck cavity portion of the cylinder head.
Important: If the cylinder head(s) are Not a Castech casting, follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss.
Refer to the following illustrations on how to identify Castech casting and/or the very specific areas of the cylinder head(s) for a coolant leak from porosity.
If the cylinder head(s) is a Castech casting (1), inspect the area around the five oil drain holes for witness marks indicating coolant seepage over time (2).
Important: If No evidence of coolant loss is found on inspection of Castech casting cylinder head(s), follow normal diagnostic procedures in SI to determine the cause of the coolant loss.
The crack location can be found in any of the five cylinder head(s) oil drains. This can be seen as a clean or shiny area, on an otherwise stained surface (1). Pressurizing the cooling system at this time may reveal coolant, air, or a combination, weeping in the described area. If inspection reveals evidence of coolant witness marks (1), replace the entire cylinder head(s) assembly.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
August 24th, 2010, 8:13 AM
#37
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@ 73shark, I'll go back and see if what they can do. The only problem I see is it has been 14 months since they did the work. It took them almost a yr to figure it out. We'll see what happens.
@Keithkman, I looked at the coolant holding tank. My tahoe has the orange coolant. However, you can see the stain of where it used to be. I'll start to keep an eye on that. Will the dealer honor that bulletin, if our trucks have over 100k miles?
Does anyone have picture of where this logo is located?
Does any know if the heads have to come off?
@Keithkman, I looked at the coolant holding tank. My tahoe has the orange coolant. However, you can see the stain of where it used to be. I'll start to keep an eye on that. Will the dealer honor that bulletin, if our trucks have over 100k miles?
Does anyone have picture of where this logo is located?
Does any know if the heads have to come off?
Last edited by 01z71; August 24th, 2010 at 1:07 PM. Reason: adding
September 1st, 2010, 3:55 PM
#39
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kbourne,
I call BS. I think the dealer is giving you the run around. The transmission is self contained. If you have engine leak, than it is coming from the engine. A tranny leak will be a totally different issue. Unless they are talking about a rear main seal
I call BS. I think the dealer is giving you the run around. The transmission is self contained. If you have engine leak, than it is coming from the engine. A tranny leak will be a totally different issue. Unless they are talking about a rear main seal
Last edited by 01z71; September 1st, 2010 at 3:57 PM. Reason: stuff
September 5th, 2010, 6:38 PM
#40
CF Beginner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update: I seafoamed my tahoe about 2 wks ago. Treated the fuel and induced it through the brake booster vacuum house. Since then the oil consumption has gone away. Everything is looking good. I think I have nailed this issue. Well all I have to say that the seafoam treatment produced a tons of smoke
