Romeo5k

OK, here it is, from beginning to end. A week or so ago, I'm cruising with no problems, I have both A/c running at like 65 degrees. Then i think, dam, I'm not cold. I normally like my a/c to be on 70-73. Heck in my cousins 2007, i tell him turn that a/c to 73 and stop hibernating.

So i reach back and the rear a/c is blowing like warm air.! Front is on 65 and its blowing COOL air, not COLD. I ask dealer over the phone , they said drop a can or two in there. Went to walmart and bought the expensive ones for 16$ a can. I used the reusable charger from there too. like 10bux i think.. Dropped both cans in there, and it felt like it was blowing cold. I revved it up to 1500 RPM while charging, in shade in the morning, and VOILA, my back windows were frosting up, "I'M LOVING THAT"

Turned truck off, came back 3 days later, ready to jump in this ice box, and when start it made a """ GRRR """ sound. Not the squeek like belts but GRRRR, like wheel bearings, or brakes. But it cant be, i haven't put truck in gear.
I paid close attention over the days, the noise ONLY comes when A/C is turned on. EXAMPLE
START TRUCK WITH A/c already running - GET NOISE
W/O A/C already running - NO NOISe
WITH REMOTE START - GET NOISE
W/O a/c .. go down the street and turn A/C on - GET NOISE

If everyone is puzzled about this noise, ill go record it , i should be able to with this phone. My A/C doesn't really get cold till night, but even at night while on 65 front and back, NO chill on windows. And the noise i THINK is coming from under the hood.. Sounds like it. ANY guesses, ideas, or anything?

SOUND HERE: LISTEN CLOSELY!
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8Fx...it?usp=sharing

titantn24

Sounds like your A/C compressor is going out.

73shark

I didn't listen to the recording but you quite possibly the liquid slugging the compressor.

joeincharlotte

I get a crazy loud noise from under the truck every once in a while when I start it. Sounds to me like mine is the blower wobbling around in it's track. It stops after a few seconds and the air starts blowing out like normal. Not sure if this is the same.

in2pro

Really the dealer told you to dump a can or two into the system without knowing the current state of charge?!?!
I have been doing a lot of reading on auto AC systems as I am about to dive into replacing components on our weekend beater the minivan...
Need to verify that you have no blockage to the front radiator, REALLY need to get a set of gauges on it and see what the high and low sides are reading...
I do know that an over charge with trash the compressor in no time at all....

before going any further, I would do a HVAC reset, remove the 10amp HVAC fuse under hood, start vehicle, wait 2 full minutes for system to relearn DO NOT adjust any settings during that learning time.

Romeo5k

I pray not!!

I wish you would had, and tell me, if liquid is slugging what does that mean? And the audio is only 10 secs long. the GRR sound comes in at around 6-7th second

Does yours still blow Icy cold tho? And yes, that sound is only for like 2 secs, Im gonna try to get another sound without putting the a/c on high

You are absolutely right, time for me to go to the pawnshop and buy one i guess. Ill do that in 30 mins. Like i said above, im gonna try to get another sound recording.
Also, QUICK QUESTION, when i take out the hvac fuse, just have truck running with a/c off ? Do i do anything special before taking the fuse out? Ive never done this before

in2pro

Everything off, pop hood removed fuse for at least 10 seconds, put it back in, turn key on ignition on no crank ( but I think engine running also works) wait 40 seconds ( but I'd give it a good minute or two) then it should be done... you may even hear the baffles and doors moving

I have posted the procedure in here somewhere so you may be able to search for it...but the above is the nut shell of it....

The procedure is really for a blend door malfunction, BUT it can appear as that the AC is blowing hot when its really the blend door being out of whack (technical term)

in2pro

Here it is...
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...bration-55521/


Condition/Concern:
When replacing the Front HVAC control head or an HVAC actuator it will be necessary to allow the HVAC control head to perform a calibration procedure. It has been found that when performing the "Actuator Recalibration" procedure on vehicles with either CJ3 or C67 Manual Hvac, the "Scan Tool" (Tech 2) method does not work properly. When performing the procedure with the Tech 2 it will NOT give any indication that it is not working properly.

Recommendation/Instructions:
At this time do not use the "Scan Tool" (Tech 2) method, use the "Alternate Method" (w/o Scan Tool) listed below.

Alternate Method (w/o Scan Tool)
Clear all DTCs AND REMOVE THE SCAN TOOL.
Place the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove the HVAC/BATT fuse for a minimum of 10 seconds.
Install the HVAC/BATT fuse.
Start the vehicle.
Wait 40 seconds for the HVAC control head to self-calibrate.
Verify that no DTCs have set.
Important: Do not adjust any controls on the HVAC control head while the HVAC control head is self-calibrating. If interrupted, improper HVAC performance will result.


EDIT: I have also found that this procedure may need to be done if the battery goes dead.

73shark

Could be the fan motor bearings. If they're the same as back in the 70s, then you can lube them w/ a little work.

73shark

Couldn't tell anything by the sound.