RebelElf

(2/21/14)

Hi All,

2005 Suburban - exact same problems - no solutions either. And a Neutral Safety Switch DID NOT FIX my problem so fair warning there. My mechanic (360AutomotiveRepair.com) also yanked out a secondary aftermarket security system I never was informed of, thinking that was the problem - NO FIX. This site has tons more about Chevy's security system fleecing: http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/. Chevy's chipped keys, ignition switches, and computers make a glaring "tri-fucta" of planned obsolescence - black holes for money. My mechanic also checked the ignition switch - NO FIX. Also had some crappy Uxxxx code that meant "Lost communication with Transmission". The Tranny wire harness connection had water in it so he carb-cleaned it out and put dielectric grease in. Then he reset the codes, but the car still won't start routinely even with no confirmed codes. It honestly acts like something in the tranny registering motion is what gets it to start.

MY SOLUTIONS - I have been able to slam the key straight to start as fast as possible before the computer and gauges come online and it has always worked. If I roll the key to ON, even for a second before hitting the starter, she risks not starting. We have also been able to get it started (sometimes) by doing an asinine combination of things: shift to neutral, try, shift to park, try, push the brake pedal down hard, try, slam the doors, try, key-fob cycle the locks/alarm system, try, lather, rinse, repeat. We also park on inclines just so we can let it roll a little ways. Seems to always start - as if it thinks it's being towed or driven. I even pushed a ridiculous combination of the traction control button and the cabin lights on/off button once and the damn thing started instantly after an HOUR. Once the car has rolled a few feet or shook or shuttered seems to be an overriding factor - then it will start. My wife backs up the driveway so she can see where she's rolling the next time. It typically starts.

I believe that we can all get some knowledge from the above site. My next step is to consider it, and replacing the starter, from the sounds of this forum. I will post any solution - unless it rolls over a cliff first.

Good Luck.

(3/19/14)

*** UPDATE ***
Bought the NewRockies bypass system and mechanic (360Automotiverepair.com) installed it. No start. He checked the instructions thrice - still no start. Then he tapped the starter with a hammer and it started so he replaced the starter. Now it starts. He even said the no-start eventually became a pain in HIS butt. I am keeping the NewRockies bypass, though. These kinds of symptoms are clearly not typical "starter" issues - even my mechanic says he has never seen a starter act like this. (My Subaru fuel pump acted like this, however.) But something tells me it is still in combination with the security system. GM is hopefully getting their Union rocks sued off of them with this new ignition recall - sitting on a known fatal vehicle shut-down flaw is murder in my book (13 murders to be exact). Nice looking cars - but junk leadership and quality. Join the class action suit here: http://www.gmclaimslawyer.com/

Will keep you updated on my situation. Mechanic is still working on about 7 other different things - I save up issues then leave the car with him for about 3 weeks (on an annual basis - at around $3500 per year). Did you hear about that GM lawsuit?

(4/26/14)

*** UPDATE ***
The new starter has absolutely fixed the problem. It has started every single time since. - RE

Stefko

If the neutral safety switch is is externally mounted to the transmission, then they tend to get corroded. When mine went bad on my 2000 Astro the indicator on the dash was inaccurate. Maybe an service manual with schematics might be helpful to check out the switch. It's amazing how the dealers have such a hard time finding the issue. Maybe they should check the forums for suggestions!!!!!!!

youngbuck007

With everyone jumping on this thread figured I would too. I read through the whole thing and lots of good advice, and apparently multiple solutions for same problem. I bought my wife a 2003 Tahoe Z71 about 2 months ago and worked fine for first month but then one day wouldn't start... then was fine for a few days... and then wouldn't start... progressively worse like everyone else until today it wouldn't start at all. Tried cycling the key dozens of times, shifting through the gears, tried starting in neutral... nothing. She tried again periodically throughout the day and still nothing. I got home and checked connections and tried tapping on starter but still nothing. Then got online and tried searching and found this thread. RebelElf - your suggestion of shoving key in and turning fast was the simplest to try first, and it worked first time! Obviously this isn't a long term solution, but at least we can drive it and if need be take it to a service station rather than get it towed. Just figured I would add to this thread with my experience, if I figure out which one of the myriad of solutions ultimately solves this (starter/ignition switch/neutral safety switch/ground/other?) I will certainly let everyone know. It would probably be good to do a survey and see what solution worked for everyone so we know what solutions are the best odds for others in the future.

realestateguy123

I just got this issue resolved on my 99 Tahoe that I just got. Apparently the original key I was given was worn down, meaning when I used that key, sometimes the theft system would not recognize the key and automatically disabling the vehicle from starting. This only happened at random times. It would take about 10-15 minutes before it would crank back up with no issues. As stupid as it sounds, a newly cut key at wal-mart was the fix for my issue. Chevrolets are notorious for this. My wife had a malibu that she didn't turn the key all of the way to the off position before pulling the key out one time and it locked up the ignition, which cost $300 parts and labor to install a new one thanks to these "safety" features. A $2 dollar fix may be your key to happiness. Just my recent experience.

Stefko

That key suggestion reminds me of something my wife was told by a mechanic. DO NOT have all of your keys dangle from your ignition switch as it can damage the switch (which is just the lock where your key goes in, or at least it used to be on older cars. Correct me if I am wrong on the newer cars). There used to be a rod that went down the steering column to the actual switch.

The other suggestion that I have is to get the schematics for the vehicles and check some voltage signals. You should be able to check, for example, if you are getting voltage to the starter relay in the relay panel or if the return is there. I know it is tough when you are dealing with car manufacturer electronics. It is difficult to get access to logic signals and the Can Bus.

RebelElf

I posted an update to my situation (above).

RE

Stefko

Is it possible that the new Chevy recall regarding the ignition switch issue will fix the starting issues. Only time will tell

Gregcampbell

Hello all. I'm new to the site but not to the problem with truck starting one min and the next it will not. I had the ignition switch and cylinder replaced at dealership twice. It cranked right off until I stopped about 8 miles from the dealer ship. Got out took care of a few things got back in and it did nothing. So I called them to let them know it was doing the same thing and they sent a mechanic and he took the cap off the relay switch pushed it and it cranked right off. That's how I've been able to crank it ever since then. Oh I also had the neutral safety switch changed to and still have to crank it from the relay switch

RebelElf

The starter was the problem, not the security system (for now). The truck has started every single time since the starter was replaced.

hawg.hf

do you have the sunroof?