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2007 Chevy Brake Rotor and Pad replacement help?
#11
I replaced rotors because the mechanic suggested it. This is the first time the brake pads and rotors has been worked on since we bought the tahoe brand new in 2006. I never had any problem till now. I guess it's about time since the mileage is rising. The dash board light in the information center has been off for about a year now. I would not know the mileage i have in that tahoe if it hadn't been for onstar which i'm subscribed to. I brought it to the dealer one time and they said it is a common problem with tahoes once it hit the 100,000 miles marker. They said the whole dash board needs to be replace and we're looking at $2,000 or more expenses... ouch!
#13
CF Senior Member
I replaced the front and back rotors/pads this weekend. we were at 61000 miles on the originals and had about 1 or 2 mm left. the rotors had a few grooves in them so I replaced them. I got everything from Autozone. the CMAX pads for front and regular ceramic for the back and the duralast rotors.
it took me about 3 hours total because I took my time (drank a few beverages with my neighbor) and cleaned the heck out of the tires/rims when I had them off.
overall it was not hard other than a few of the bolts were tough to get off - a pipe on the end of the ratchet made life much easier.
a few random tips
- be sure to take out the calipar slide pins and lube the up real good with brake lube. 3 of the 4 were very dry when I took them out.
- I used an old brake pad and a C clamp to push the pistons back in
- like others have said be sure to check your brake fluid. mine was right in the middle when I started but after putting on the new pads it was almost overflowing so I had to suck some out to get it down to the MAX line.
other than that a pretty straight forward deal. I was able to save about $150 vs the dealer prices and I got much better hardware.
it took me about 3 hours total because I took my time (drank a few beverages with my neighbor) and cleaned the heck out of the tires/rims when I had them off.
overall it was not hard other than a few of the bolts were tough to get off - a pipe on the end of the ratchet made life much easier.
a few random tips
- be sure to take out the calipar slide pins and lube the up real good with brake lube. 3 of the 4 were very dry when I took them out.
- I used an old brake pad and a C clamp to push the pistons back in
- like others have said be sure to check your brake fluid. mine was right in the middle when I started but after putting on the new pads it was almost overflowing so I had to suck some out to get it down to the MAX line.
other than that a pretty straight forward deal. I was able to save about $150 vs the dealer prices and I got much better hardware.
Last edited by ousig2408; May 31st, 2011 at 7:47 AM.
#14
Administrator
Good job! I figure I will get about 65-70 out of mine also, I am at 56k now
I also apply the Disc quite spray to the back of the pads to control any squeak or squeal...
Did your new pads come with pad shims or where there even shims installed?
I also apply the Disc quite spray to the back of the pads to control any squeak or squeal...
Did your new pads come with pad shims or where there even shims installed?
#15
CF Senior Member
our stocks were still quiet but when at the dealer to fix our folding mirror they said we were at 1 and 2 mm. visually looking at them I agreed.
all 4 had shims already. the new front pads came with a new shim kit but the back ones did not. I just reused the stock back shims...they were all good just dirty. the new pads fit in perfectly snug in the old shims so I did not think that was any issue.
I used 1 little packet of brake lube per wheel to liberally coat the back of both pads and the pins.
all 4 had shims already. the new front pads came with a new shim kit but the back ones did not. I just reused the stock back shims...they were all good just dirty. the new pads fit in perfectly snug in the old shims so I did not think that was any issue.
I used 1 little packet of brake lube per wheel to liberally coat the back of both pads and the pins.
Last edited by ousig2408; May 31st, 2011 at 4:22 PM.
#18
Administrator
I know I will be coming up on some maintenance soon (brakes) and am debating if I should make a day of it by doing the the brakes, rotors, shocks and replacing my rubber sway bushings with poly....
Working on my shopping list....
Working on my shopping list....
#19
CF Senior Member
ya that would be good but that was too much $ for me at 1 time. I don't think you will need to worry about your shocks for a while unless you are noticing an issue. I am debating on getting the brake fluid flushed at the dealer soon though. I have never done that before and for only around $100 I don't think it is worth me messing with...
after that I should be set on regular maintenance for another 20k at least. I have already got the transmission fluid changed at the dealer and the rear dif fluid changed.
after that I should be set on regular maintenance for another 20k at least. I have already got the transmission fluid changed at the dealer and the rear dif fluid changed.
#20
Administrator