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Tahoe & SuburbanThe power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.
I recently had my rear liftgate stop working. Apparently there is no obvious way to open the liftgate once the latch assy. stops working. I would grab the exterior handle and nothing would happen. I wouldn't hear the latch as I normally would. The glass hatch worked fine though.
I was told that I would have to attempt to remove the interior panel, which is near impossible to do with the liftgate closed, this commonly damages the panel. Crazy considering the panel is about $495.00! The latch assy. cost between $95.00-$165.00. I was lucky and found one on ebay for $60.00.
The new latch assy. has a long plastic strap to run to the top of the panel to facilitate easy access and release the latch. As I inspected the interior panel I noticed a small (1/8") circle molded into the panel near the bottom just right of the latch (center). After I drilled this out with a 1/8 " bit I used a 6" long wire, clothes hanger strength, and inserted it attempting to push the release up in the direction the strap on the new one would be pulled.
After about 1 minute of trying this I succeeded. The hatch opened. The replacement of the latch took about 10 minutes. The new latch solved the problem!
If you run in to this problem let me know and I'll post pictures...
The dealer acted as if they didn't know how to do this....
Can you post pictures please? And if you have part number it'd be great too! Not having any luck finding the part on amazon.
I'm experiencing the same problem with my 2011 Suburban. Non-power liftgate (LT model). The rear glass works fine with the remote and the button on the outside but can't get the tailgate to open. I also don't hear the "click" sound back there that I used to hear when I'd unlock the doors.
These vehicles are doomed with multiple issues electronically. They are a money pit. I do not trust GM vehicles anymore. They have cost me so much in after warranty repairs. I sold mine and downsized due to family smaller now to a Hyundai vehicle and have been satisfied. No more $1,000 repairs for stabilitrac or hatches that wont open or rear view cameras that are static or radios that have a mind of their own or navigation that whacks out. List goes on for ever. If you own one unload it asap!
Can you post pictures please? And if you have part number it'd be great too! Not having any luck finding the part on amazon.
I'm experiencing the same problem with my 2011 Suburban. Non-power liftgate (LT model). The rear glass works fine with the remote and the button on the outside but can't get the tailgate to open. I also don't hear the "click" sound back there that I used to hear when I'd unlock the doors.
Any help would be appreciated!
I'm not sure how the non-power liftgate models work, but on my power liftgate model, when I was buying it used, the only way I could open it was from the remote or the button inside.
I needed that fixed beforehand, so the dealer replaced the "touchpad" switch that is mounted inside the back handle. Inside the handle that you "pull" there is a rubbery pad and that pad has the switch to open the back hatch.
Even when I have the power liftgate disengaged via the switch inside the truck, you still have to pull on that "pad" area to get the hatch to unlatch and then it manually goes up via your pulling and the shocks.
Now if yours is more of a mechanical design, where the whole handle moves back and forth, than this is of no help. But if it doesn't move, it might be that pad thingy.
Thanks for the replies folks. The problem was latch release switch... GM part 15106857- Rear Liftgate Latch Release Switch.
Cost me 30$ at local dealership and about 1hr of my own time to figure out how to remove rear panel (it's all a series of clips that come apart) then there are 4 bolts on the interior that kept the handle secure - those need to be removed so the handle can come off and then switch replaced.
See some pics of the work for those interested.
The upper trim is the first piece to be removed. It's connected by a series of clips
Main rear panel removed. There are only 2 screws to remove, one under where the handle is and where the strap is.
Interior trim panel held by a dozen or so clips.
Here's the culprit...
Last edited by Fivepak; March 6th, 2016 at 9:40 AM.
Also have 2007 Suburban. Not a power liftgate , just recently lift gate quit working... unable to open hatch by lift handle... don't hear actuator when unlock with remote... think actuator is bad but with lift gate closed can't check. please post photo's of how you got hatch open.
thanks in advance
Lurker John here... check in some but rarely post ... till I have a problem
happened today started with the button on the rear handle... I can hear the latch assembly start to run and the latch will release partially... gate will move about 1" BUT IS STILL LATCHED
gate does not come up but I can hear the lift motor running then a 'bump' Switch on the console is correct and has no effect on the liftgate... key fob, same.
I removed enough panels to look at the lift motor and nothing seems worn or bent or broken It seems that the motor will start to run but not cycle completely... If I raise and lower the hatch manually I see the gears and motor moving so nothing is stuck.
Really like this feature and would like to fix it... Burb is a 2008 with 64K mile and out of warranty... vin # 3GNFC16J78G149110
any and all help appreciated..
thanks
John
did you figure out the issue im having the same problem
Well, it looks like the best guess is the BCM (body control module). Since I am out of warranty I installed a manual release on the inside of the lift gate. I fitted a push button release where I drilled a small hole earlier to access the manual release using a wire. Works great. Just have to open the top hatch then reach in an press the button when the outside handle doesn't work. I would have thought Chevy would have made a manual release button. Took me about 30 minutes to install....
Can you give me information on how you installed the manual switch cause I’ve got the same problem with my 07 Suburban?
I have the exact same issue. Have you had your's fixed? I saw your post asking JNIOLON to see if he had fixed his.
Thanks!
Jean Marie
Originally Posted by Andrew White
did you figure out the issue im having the same problem
Originally Posted by jniolonView Post
Lurker John here... check in some but rarely post ... till I have a problem
happened today started with the button on the rear handle... I can hear the latch assembly start to run and the latch will release partially... gate will move about 1" BUT IS STILL LATCHED
gate does not come up but I can hear the lift motor running then a 'bump' Switch on the console is correct and has no effect on the liftgate... key fob, same.
I removed enough panels to look at the lift motor and nothing seems worn or bent or broken It seems that the motor will start to run but not cycle completely... If I raise and lower the hatch manually I see the gears and motor moving so nothing is stuck.
Really like this feature and would like to fix it... Burb is a 2008 with 64K mile and out of warranty... vin # 3GNFC16J78G149110
March 2nd, 2016, 8:53 AM
