2007 Suburban LTZ Camera and Warning Issue
#1
2007 Suburban LTZ Camera and Warning Issue
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Recently purchased a 2007 suburban LTZ and the rear camera does not work. The screen will switch when in reverse but it's black. There is also a message that says that I need to service my airbags. I started looking into the issues and discovered that fuse # 51 (airbag Batt) and #43 (misc ign) were blown and will blow as soon as I put in a new fuse. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and are they related somewhere?
Last edited by kymater; June 30th, 2015 at 7:41 AM.
#2
CF Active Member
Fuse #43 feeds the Rearview Camera Module, Climate Control Seat Module, Stop Lamp Switch, Transfer Case Shift Control Module.
Look for chaffing wires near the powered items, unplug all the items for the fuse you're troubleshooting, replace the fuse, if it blows immediately then you have a wiring issue. Otherwise plug in one item at a time until the bad part blows the fuse.
Are there any aftermarket devices or wiring installed by previous owners?
Hope this helps, Good Luck!
#3
Bit the bullet and took her to the local dealership this week. A great bunch of guys, we finally found some chaffed wires under the dash near the emergency brake that was causing the problems.
However, while there we discovered that she needs rear shocks and compressor as well. They said I'd be better off finding aftermarket parts than buy from them. Any suggestions?
However, while there we discovered that she needs rear shocks and compressor as well. They said I'd be better off finding aftermarket parts than buy from them. Any suggestions?
#4
Arnott Industries is who you want to buy them from.
Get the compressor and the shocks from them.
They have new electronically controlled air shock absorbers, remanufactured electronically controlled air shock absorbers and passive air shock absorbers. I went with the remanufactured because back then, they didn't have the new ones like they have now. You'll want to reuse and rebuild the dryer from your original compressor otherwise, you're looking at another $50.
It'll probably be around $700 but mine rides much better again especially when towing my camper. Arnott is also a lot cheaper than buying the parts from the dealer.
Get the compressor and the shocks from them.
They have new electronically controlled air shock absorbers, remanufactured electronically controlled air shock absorbers and passive air shock absorbers. I went with the remanufactured because back then, they didn't have the new ones like they have now. You'll want to reuse and rebuild the dryer from your original compressor otherwise, you're looking at another $50.
It'll probably be around $700 but mine rides much better again especially when towing my camper. Arnott is also a lot cheaper than buying the parts from the dealer.
#5
[QUOTE=KChevy75;304654]Arnott Industries is who you want to buy them from.
QUOTE]
It appears Arnott is the place to buy. I'm struggling with the whole passive vs. active shocks. I'm guess that what's on the suburban now is electronic active shocks? (they are real time dampening"?) I figured the passive shocks won't dampen down the highway but will they auto level if I load the vehicle with a bunch of kids and luggage? If that makes sense.....
QUOTE]
It appears Arnott is the place to buy. I'm struggling with the whole passive vs. active shocks. I'm guess that what's on the suburban now is electronic active shocks? (they are real time dampening"?) I figured the passive shocks won't dampen down the highway but will they auto level if I load the vehicle with a bunch of kids and luggage? If that makes sense.....
#6
My understanding is all 4 of the electronic shocks auto dampen depending on various conditions. The rear also have the air bladder for level control.
The rear passive shocks still have the air bladder but don't have the auto dampening feature. They have a device that plugs into the connectors that were originally plugged into the active shocks. This devices basically tells the computer that everything is good with the shocks so you don't get a CEL or other messages on the DIC.
The rear passive shocks still have the air bladder but don't have the auto dampening feature. They have a device that plugs into the connectors that were originally plugged into the active shocks. This devices basically tells the computer that everything is good with the shocks so you don't get a CEL or other messages on the DIC.
#7
My understanding is all 4 of the electronic shocks auto dampen depending on various conditions. The rear also have the air bladder for level control.
The rear passive shocks still have the air bladder but don't have the auto dampening feature. They have a device that plugs into the connectors that were originally plugged into the active shocks. This devices basically tells the computer that everything is good with the shocks so you don't get a CEL or other messages on the DIC.
The rear passive shocks still have the air bladder but don't have the auto dampening feature. They have a device that plugs into the connectors that were originally plugged into the active shocks. This devices basically tells the computer that everything is good with the shocks so you don't get a CEL or other messages on the DIC.
Thanks for the clarification, order some tonight.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post