Jimbo B

Wow.... I guess i should not have said it was doing fine. Now the DIC has fried. Nasty burning smell and nothing on the DIC works. The area at the bottom with the LED or LCD display is just black. Nothing there. No odometer, no range selction readout etc. Dang it.

Jimbo B

CCS (Louis).... were you wanting my info or POS2007TAHOE's info?

SabrToothSqrl

GM quality strikes again!

meanwhile my dads 14 year old toyota that's been beat to death runs fine.

TahoeFromHell

I have a 2007 LT Tahoe 4WD w/ approximately 90k miles on it, that has recently decided that it wants to kill me. A week or so ago, I start the car up in the parking garage and 10 seconds later the steering wheel locked up and I had to slam on the brakes to keep from hitting the wall. I restarted the car and all is well... until today. Driving to work this morning, and 5 minutes into the drive as I attempt a right turn onto a major street, the car brakes itself with me halfway into the intersection, and will not allow me to drive forward (tried switching gears to no avail, luckily the oncoming car stopped about 5 feet from my face...). The dash started flashing "No Traction Control" and "Service Stabilitrak" lights, and I was only able to move in reverse. I turned the car off, restarted it a few minutes later and all was fine, but I was not about to get onto the highway in that death trap, so had it towed to a service station. Any ideas what is going on??? I had a check engine light a few months ago that was corrected by cleaning out the throttle body, and have noticed the car struggling to shift from 1st to 2nd gear since then. Also put some all-terrains on recently, but doubt that has anything to do with it (standard size).

73shark

Welcome to the forum.

R u the original owner? Any aftermarket gear, especially electrical, installed? By "service station", do you mean an auto repair facility?

Not sure how the steering could lock since there's no anti-theft lock on them anymore.

I'd be inclined to take it to a dealer that I knew was competent.

TahoeFromHell

There was one original owner who had the car for the first 25k miles, though I haven't had any problems until now. No aftermarket gear on the truck. And apologies for bad terminology, I did mean repair shop.

I've found many dealers/repair shops that I know are incompetent, but am still looking for one that I know IS competent... Went to the nearest AAA approved repair shop to run the diagnostic, but will probably talk to some dealers depending on what they come back with.

Chevrolet Customer Service

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I'm sorry to hear of the problems with your Tahoe. Please keep us posted regarding the diagnosis.

If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me.

Louis
GM Customer Service

POS2007Tahoe

My problem was bad enough, but it didn't try to kill me like that! In my case, the truck ran fine, it was just that check engine, ABS, and other random warning lights going nuts. The door locks were acking up on their own. I'm an electrical engineer, so...I had some ideas of what might be causing it. But, I did take it to the dealer. I hate going to the dealer because it's so expensive. But on the flip side, they will do whatever it takes to make it right. And if they don't, an e-mail to GM will usually get their attention. Anyway, I had researched this problem and read all the horror stories. Knowing how this might turn out, I told them up front that I was not going to pay for unnecessary repairs. That saved me because they first started with the Body Control Module (which was about a $600 job). That [repair] lasted about an hour and I did a U-turn and went right back. This time it was the ABS module they wanted to repair which would be another $800+ dollars. I reminded them of our previous conversation, complained to GM, and they did not charge me for the 2nd repair. I haven't had any problems since. The problem with all of the various computers on the vehicle and how they are all linked together is if something is pulling down the GMLAN bus and they aren't talking nicely together, the problems can manifest themselves anywhere and it's easy to mis-diagnose. And when one computer is acting up, it likely can cause one of the other computers that are all interconnected to act up. So, you are left no choice but to do trial and error. Cars are so complicated that unless you have a PhD, you can eventually fix the problem by replacing parts, but you often don't know how all that stuff works or what really caused the problem. The problem I have with repair shops that do that is they want to charge you for the parts they replaced that didn't fix the problem. For example, if there is a whining noise under your hood and they can't tell if it's the alternator or the power steering pump, and they first replace the alternator and that's not the problem and they move onto the steering pump and that was the problem, put my old alternator back on and not charge me for it rather than try to stick me with a new alternator I didn't need (BTW - true story). I went against my better judgement when I bought my 2007 Tahoe. I bought it in 2006 when the new body style came out. My general rule of thumb was NEVER buy the 1st year of a new model. I should have listened. I've replaced the alternator, power steering pump (probably didn't need), Body Control Module, ABS Module, brake pads and rotors all the way around (constant problem with warped rotors), spent hundreds of dollars chasing gremlins associated with the EVAP system, bad BOSE speaker in the back when I first got it, etc...Other than that, it's been just wonderful

TahoeFromHell

Quick update: Looks like I had a faulty accelerator pedal position sensor, so going to replace that and see how she does. Would make some sense as a root problem, since it is hooked into the traction control and ABS... I'll post an update after I've given it some time.

Greer

2007 Chevy Tahoe. Stabilitrak Service message w/ engine light always on. Reduced Power warning and car slows -- has been going on for a month -- I reset it and turn car off and goes for a week and happens again. Was on freeway going 75 and came on last night and engine power reduced etc...
I had put a DYNOVALVE on car 6 months ago -- (dynovalve.com) electronically controlled PCV valve... Could this be the problem or does the Stabilitrak go out in the 2007's about now and if so about how much to service ?