2008 Suburban LTZ cruise control problem
October 11th, 2010, 10:47 AM
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2008 Suburban LTZ cruise control problem
Hello all,
My cruise has not worked for some time now. I have checked all fuses that seem to be associated with process and they are fine. The light on the steering wheel comes on, but the indicator on the instrument panel never lights up and the car never actually goes into cruise control. Before I bring it in, I wanted to see if any of you have any suggestions. I searched the forum but could not find any answers.
Also, the remote starter does not work, even after changing the key. Checked the fuses on this as well. I am not sure if it is the same problem as the cruise, or if they are separate, but it may help someone to diagnose the problem. Thanks guys.
My cruise has not worked for some time now. I have checked all fuses that seem to be associated with process and they are fine. The light on the steering wheel comes on, but the indicator on the instrument panel never lights up and the car never actually goes into cruise control. Before I bring it in, I wanted to see if any of you have any suggestions. I searched the forum but could not find any answers.
Also, the remote starter does not work, even after changing the key. Checked the fuses on this as well. I am not sure if it is the same problem as the cruise, or if they are separate, but it may help someone to diagnose the problem. Thanks guys.
October 11th, 2010, 2:55 PM
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I have an 08 suburban LTZ that has the same problem. Cruise light on switch works, but the cruise never engages. Rarely it will engage but as soon as I hit the brake or cancel button it will not work again.
There is a cruise control post regarding an Avalanche LTZ but there is no answer.
If anyone knows how to fix this please help.
There is a cruise control post regarding an Avalanche LTZ but there is no answer.
If anyone knows how to fix this please help.
October 25th, 2010, 3:38 PM
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I checked our warranty information for the 5 year 100,000 mile power train warranty and this is what is excluded as far as the engine coverage goes.
Excluded from the powertrain coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, fans, coolant and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded are engine oil cooling hoses and radiators.
I would suggest checking with your dealership to see if they would be willing to fix this issue for you at no charge. They will do that from time to time. I hope that helps you.
Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service
Excluded from the powertrain coverage are sensors, wiring, connectors, engine radiator, coolant hoses, fans, coolant and heater core. Coverage on the engine cooling system begins at the inlet to the water pump and ends with the thermostat housing and/or outlet that attaches to the return hose. Also excluded are engine oil cooling hoses and radiators.
I would suggest checking with your dealership to see if they would be willing to fix this issue for you at no charge. They will do that from time to time. I hope that helps you.
Jeff Morris, Chevrolet Customer Service
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October 28th, 2010, 9:28 AM
#8
Well I had the same issue with my cruise and found something on the web that finally worked. There is a brake switch that is connected to the brake pedal and master cylinder rod under the dash. I removed the clip and harness and you can take it out of the vehicle. I took the cover off and found two of the contact pads had black marks on them, so I took the switch completely apart and cleaned the contact areas with 1000 grit sand paper. I re-assembled and installed the switch and it has worked for the last month on demand every time without a hiccup. Seems this is the root cause and although it may happen again it was an easy fix. The switch could be replaced as well, but nobody was open(weekend) which caused me to investigate myself.
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October 29th, 2010, 8:49 AM
#10
Administrator
Well I had the same issue with my cruise and found something on the web that finally worked. There is a brake switch that is connected to the brake pedal and master cylinder rod under the dash. I removed the clip and harness and you can take it out of the vehicle. I took the cover off and found two of the contact pads had black marks on them, so I took the switch completely apart and cleaned the contact areas with 1000 grit sand paper. I re-assembled and installed the switch and it has worked for the last month on demand every time without a hiccup. Seems this is the root cause and although it may happen again it was an easy fix. The switch could be replaced as well, but nobody was open(weekend) which caused me to investigate myself.
how would you rate it on ease and access?