bronzebogen

Ok guys and gals, the verdict is in. Took it to the Chevy guru for extensive testing. The main problem is a wrecked main bearing and this has caused other parts to fail because of it. Whether it was the original problem or whether some kind of detonation happened, I'm not sure. Come to find out the car hadn't been driven in two years, so I suspect the PO knew something big was wrong with it.

I have the tools and skills to do an engine swap, but don't really have anywhere to do the work, so unless someone knows of a really great deal on a vortec, looks like this saga is over.

mgkyle

Might have delayed too long, but FYI www.car-part.com lets you search the stock of a lot of used parts places... looks like you might get an okay one for $650 -- at least in Iowa or Texas

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.c...y=&userPage=27

--Matthew

carpenterhendrickson

Thank you for all your posts and work, it was not in vein...i am having similar issues and learned much

briand1_99

Hello Everyone i have been reading this forum tryin to find the answers to the peoblem i have been have with my 97 5.7 liter 1/2ton truck. i am pretty knowledgeable when i come to morots but this has got me stuck !! I blew a lower intake gasket, got it all back together now i cant get the motor to start. Distributor is in right with new cap and bug. New wires and plugs everything "seems" to be in the right place so it should just fire up "i would like to think so" !!! All it does is turn over seems to wanna start but wont. Gettin great spark but it seems to be lacking fuel. if i roll the key back and let the fuel preasure build up it does fire for a second then back to nothing. i pulled the plugs and found some to be black and dry and others to be wet. Is this tellin me that my injectors are bad ?? it is the Spider type. Is there a different tryp i can put in or is there a way to take these apart and clean them.

ANY AND ALL HELP IS GREAT !!! THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME

carpenterhendrickson

my experience is not to disconnect the "spider legs" hoses and poppet valves from the intake contol plug section, i was not able to get them back on. i was able to clean the poppets i pulled from a spare motor with carb cleaner and a wire brush. on my 5.7 replacing the fuel pressure regulator, located on the same assembly was key.

happy hunting

Todder

Darn I have the same issue. 96 5.7 suburban was running rich , replaced the usual stuff then after further diagnosis by the lame dealer here , they said it had 2 blown head gaskets. So i replaced the engine with a lower mileage crashed one , 80k miles. and guess what same problem. Ok so parts replaced are all cap rotor wires plugs, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator , engine . Now it seems to have the miss all the time but sometimes its much worse, check engine light on only intermittently. for sure a rich problem, much worse when really hot and humid and you need to floor it to start it , when the engine is warm. I have not replaced the spider assembly yet. Codes are random misfires on dif cylinders. Thanks for any advise, this truck is mint still.

mdm6713

Im going through the same thing....Ive changed...

Plugs
Plug Wires
Cap
Rotor
Hall Sensor
(4) O2 Sensors
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Computer (ecm)
Coil
Coil Ignitor
Thermostat (raised my running temp to 180 up from 155 deg.)
Spider Injector Update ($400)
Dist. Gear

I failed emmision only on the idle portion...the HCC (unburned raw fuel)was almost double the allowable.

Getting pretty fed up with this..but really want to fix it as I love this truck...about 260K on it...anybody with ideas much appreciated.
Michael

Todder

I ordered the delphi mfi spider, it should be here tomorrow and I'll post if that fixed it or not, truck has been sitting since I last post. If that doesn't fix it only thing left is plugged cats. About the same price for either so I did the spider first. thanks

mdm6713

Have I done everything? Really seems like a timing issue...what about changing the timing chain? Could it be stretched? Dumb question but how do I check it for play? whats excessive?
thanks guys
Michael

TheDanimal

If you feel that it is a timing issue I would look at the crank position sensor. It may be sending the wrong signals to the computer and causing a pre-ignition or late ignition condition. The timing cannot be adjuster by conventional means. It is all computer controlled.