Changing the fuel pump on 2003 Tahoe - Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums

Changing the fuel pump on 2003 Tahoe


  Reply  
skibumm's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5

February 11th, 2009, 8:59 PM   #1  
Changing the fuel pump on 2003 Tahoe

I have a quick question. I have the tank out and the old pump out and the new harnes wired in but the new pump will not allow for the locking ring to go back in. There were three of us trying to get it to compress the rubber seal but would not go in. I got the pump from autozone and returned it and go a different on form Checker but they are both not going in. At this point I am thinking that it is user error and not th eparts fault. Does anyone have suggestions?

 
in2pro's Avatar
Administrator

Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,285
Austin, Texas

February 12th, 2009, 7:43 AM   #2  
Welcome to the forum

If the gasket is approx the same size as the old one then its just a matter of getting it compressed down, try a little WD40 on the lock ring, you may have to use some light tapping with a hammer to get the ring past the detents.

Have someone press and hold the pump down while you work the lock ring.

 
skibumm's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5

February 12th, 2009, 11:56 AM   #3  
Yea we tried all fo that there were three of us one pushing down and two with punches and hammers and it would not compress the gasket. I am going to go get an OEM one form the dealer as I think it is just the difference in the thickness of the plastic on the aftermarket one that is giving us fits.

 
skibumm's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5

February 12th, 2009, 2:22 PM   #4  
OH CRAP the OEM is exactly like the aftermarket. I have no idea what to do at this point.

 
in2pro's Avatar
Administrator

Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,285
Austin, Texas

February 12th, 2009, 5:14 PM   #5  
Are you possibly over tightening it? It should not be that hard,
make sure the log ring is going on in the right orientation
make sure the old gasket is completely removed
make sure your not compressing the fuel tank so much that the pump is getting pushed back up.
Test fit the ring without the pump and verify nothing is bent or out of place
good luck and let us know

 
73shark's Avatar
Administrator

Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,167
KC, MO area

February 12th, 2009, 5:20 PM   #6  
Except I'll bet the OEM one was more expensive but from what I've heard, they're a lot more reliable than aftermarket ones.

Have you tried putting the old one back in?

Are you using a new gasket and if so, does it look the same as the old one?

 
in2pro's Avatar
Administrator

Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,285
Austin, Texas

February 12th, 2009, 5:24 PM   #7  
Removal & Installation

2002–06 Vehicles

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Drain the fuel tank.
Remove or disconnect the following:
WARNING
Do not handle the fuel sender assembly by the fuel pipes. The amount of leverage generated by handling the fuel pipes could damage tool Joints.
Fuel tank
Disconnect the fuel and evaporative emission (EVAP) lines from the fuel tank module.

Fuel pump/sender assembly—2002–06 4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L engines
Fuel sender assembly retaining ring using a fuel tank sending unit wrench. Remove the fuel sender assembly and the seal. Discard the seal.
Note the position of the fuel strainer on the fuel sender. Support the fuel sender assembly with one hand and grasp the strainer with the other hand. Pull the strainer off the fuel sender. Discard the strainer after inspection. Inspect the strainer. Replace a contaminated strainer and clean the fuel tank.
Fuel pump electrical connector
Electrical connector retaining clip from the fuel level sensor
Sensor electrical connector from under the fuel sender cover
Fuel level sensor retaining clip
Squeeze the locking tangs and remove the fuel level sensor.
Remove the fuel pressure sensor.
To install:

Install or connect the following:
NOTE
Always install a new fuel strainer when replacing the fuel tank fuel pump module.
NOTE
The fuel pump strainer must be in a horizontal position when the fuel sender is installed in the tank. When installing the fuel sender assembly, assure that the fuel pump strainer does not block full travel of the float arm.
Fuel pressure sensor
Fuel level sensor
Sensor retaining clip
Electrical connector to the fuel level sensor
Electrical connector retaining clip to the fuel level sensor
Fuel pump electrical connector
New fuel strainer in the same position as noted during disassembly. Push the strainer on the bottom of the fuel sender until the strainer is fully seated.
New seal on the fuel tank
Fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank
Fuel sender assembly retaining ring
Fuel tank. Install the fuel tank strap attaching bolts. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
Refill the fuel tank. Install the fuel filler cap. Connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
Turn the ignition ON.
Inspect for fuel leaks.


Last edited by in2pro; February 12th, 2009 at 5:26 PM. Reason: content related to 2003
 
skibumm's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5

February 12th, 2009, 5:27 PM   #8  
Yes the old one fits right back in. We have taken off the old one and cleaned up everything. The old gasket and the new ones are the same it is just the plastic top of the new one is about an 1/8th of an inch and the original is a metal top that is about 1/16th of an inch. I know that does not sound like much but dang that ring just wont compress the gasket and lock into place.

 
in2pro's Avatar
Administrator

Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,285
Austin, Texas

February 12th, 2009, 5:30 PM   #9  
1/16 is a lot to compress, do you think you can reform or bend the retaining tabs just slightly to allow for the thicker pump housing but still get a good seal?
you should only need a tiny bit as the gasket should compress, that and make sure everything is slippery enough with lube to ease it all together.

a possible option is to see if you can find a thinner gasket...


Last edited by in2pro; February 12th, 2009 at 5:36 PM. Reason: spelling
 
skibumm's Avatar
CF Beginner

Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5

February 12th, 2009, 8:04 PM   #10  
That was the trick and the OEM is slightly thinner so it is in and up and running great. Thanks for everyones help.

Posted By: in2pro 1/16 is a lot to compress, do you think you can reform or bend the retaining tabs just slightly to allow for the thicker pump housing but still get a good seal?
you should only need a tiny bit as the gasket should compress, that and make sure everything is slippery enough with lube to ease it all together.

a possible option is to see if you can find a thinner gasket...

 
Tags
Search this Thread
Sponsors
Related Topics