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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Check engine light code P0449

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Old September 2nd, 2010, 8:34 PM
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2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 1706776
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Evaporative Emission Canister Vent Solenoid Valve Replacement (1500 Series)
Removal Procedure
Important: Clean all evaporative emission (EVAP) line connections and surrounding areas prior to disconnecting, in order to avoid possible EVAP system contamination.

Remove the spare tire and wheel assembly.



Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Disconnect the chassis wiring harness electrical connector (1) from the EVAP canister vent solenoid.



Disconnect the EVAP canister vent solenoid quick connect fitting (1) from the EVAP canister. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service .
Disconnect the fuel fill pipe EVAP line quick connect fitting (3) from the vent solenoid. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service .



Disengage the retainer (1) securing the EVAP canister vent solenoid to the bracket.
Remove the EVAP canister vent solenoid.
Installation Procedure




Install the EVAP canister vent solenoid.
Slide the EVAP canister vent solenoid onto the bracket until the retainer (1) engages the clip.



Connect the EVAP canister vent solenoid quick connect fitting (1) to the EVAP canister. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service .
Connect the fuel fill pipe EVAP line quick connect fitting (3) to the vent solenoid. Refer to Plastic Collar Quick Connect Fitting Service .



Connect the chassis wiring harness electrical connector (1) to the EVAP canister vent solenoid.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the spare tire and wheel assembly.
Old September 14th, 2010, 9:48 PM
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Default Check Engine Light with P0449 code, now gas smell

The check engine light came on and about the same time we started smelling gas around the driver side rear. After about a month of driving around with the light on I got the code, P0449 Evap solenoid valve. I replaced the $35 part, everything went together fine but I can still smell gas. It's not coming out of the gas cap. Seems to be coming from the rear driver side wheel well area which puts it in the gas tank area. I need to do some more poking around but has anyone else experenced this problem?
Old September 20th, 2010, 12:28 AM
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07 Suburban, I still smell gas, going on a week now after replacing the solenoid vent valve. Now the check engine light came back on. Have yet to take it in and get a code. I did some investigating, I pulled off the charcoal canister and it had about 2 oz of liquid fuel in it. I read through several auto forums and everyone is telling me to replace the canister after it has gas in it because it breaks down the charcoal pellets and then they can get sucked into the fuel system. I got a "loose gas cap" message this morning on the dashboard display. I checked the gas cap valve by blowing on it. I could not blow out but could suck in. Gas cap appears ok. While the canister was off I blew through the vent solenoid valve with little effort. No blockage there. I guess I am off to get a canister from the local chevy dealer.
Old September 20th, 2010, 6:59 PM
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yeah fuel in the canister is a bad thing... make sure you are stopping at the first pump cut off when filling up never top off or you risk over filling and backing fuel up into the evap system....
Old November 5th, 2010, 5:46 PM
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Well im new here i have a 2008 silverrado 2wd ext cab ,my check engine light came on today, i have a scanner and i got the P0449 code i called OnStar and they told me to check the gas cap its tight ,i tried to erase the code but it would not clear, normally it doese at least in the older models ,then they said it could be the evap. solenoid valve wouldn't this be covered under warranty? i have only 48428 mi., then they tell me there scan indicates low voltage on my brake switch which may affect my transmission shifting which has not yet,on my first oil change i told the dealer about my cruise control not working some times only in the mornings which they say a bad brake switch would affect the cruse control not to engage?
Old November 5th, 2010, 10:06 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

The evap solenoid (which is probably what the problem is) wouldn't be covered under the 3/36 warranty.
Old November 7th, 2010, 5:49 PM
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Ok thanks
Old December 13th, 2010, 5:28 PM
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Default My Experience was Differnt from Everyone Else

I replaced the canister valve solenoid (on the passenger side of the gas tank in my '02 S71 Avalanche), but that didn't solve the problem. Here's what happened.<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /><O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
The canister valve solenoid was difficult to find and tight getting to. Took me about an hour just to get the right angle and lighting to be able to disconnect its electrical and fuel lines and then extract the unit from its mounting bracket. I am not an experienced mechanic, but am mechanically inclined.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
So then, I was all proud of myself for saving the money that Uncle G would have charged me. I took the vehicle back to the inspection shop to have the light cleared, but it just came back on within a few seconds of starting the car.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
It turns out the pair of wires providing electrical current to the solenoid was cut. The inspector actually mentioned to me, before I bought the replacement canister solenoid, that he had seen a similar case (the "check engine light" came back on immediately after resetting it). I ignored his comment, regretfully. When he put it on his lift, I was actually standing there watching, he pulled the wires from atop the beam above which they recede from the canister solenoid mounting site. Sure enough, both wires ended without any termination. I examined them closely for a couple of seconds. The wires didn't appear to have been cut by a sharp object because the plastic sheathing was rough and uneven in its ending. The idiot light first came on shortly after I departed on off-road camping spot in a Nat'l Forest in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comArizona</ST1:place>. It is easy for me to expect if any wire were going to be broken, because it was too short perhaps, to accommodate the full throw of the surrounding suspension components, which could well have seen record-breaking deflections while pulling a trailer in the off road forest with extremely uneven surfaces.
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Suffice it to say, after the guy dropped the gas tank (so that he could get to the other broken ends of the two wires) and spliced in an "extension cord" for each of the two leads, the check engine light wouldn't come back on. <O:p< font O:p<>I guess I would recommend, particularly if you've (1) recently been off-road or (2) have the experience that the check engine light comes back on immediately (within a few seconds of restarting the engine after resetting the light) with code P0449. I guess if the failure is the actual canister/solenoid valve, the check engine light will not come back on so quickly - so having the light come back on immediately is the tip that it is probably the wiring and not the component.

</O:p<>

Last edited by vicmail12; December 13th, 2010 at 5:32 PM.
Old December 13th, 2010, 6:48 PM
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Rats and mice can be very problematic with chewing wires and harnesses...
my mom and dad have a Honda Odyssey that the mice love to eat a particular wire harness to the transmission...
Old December 14th, 2010, 10:32 AM
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check the o2 sensors. check both of them there is one infront of the catalyic converters and one in the front of the exhaust


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