I have a 2002 Tahoe and the "Service autoride" light comes and goes. I bought the refurbished shocks and comp from Arnott and installed them myself for $600. It did no good as far as the light goes. It still comes and goes and the dealer said that it might be the ESCM. $900!!! But that may not fix it either but they will not take it back if it doesn't. There is also a BCM computer that is involved and I didn't price it but it probably is just as much as the other one. The system can be defeated but the computers have to be reprogrammed to the no auto ride configuration. That takes a dealer or someone with the codes to use and the computer setup to do it with. GM should have gone bankrupt!
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@inspectorudy , Welcome to the forum,
Your vehicle is 9 years old... that really isn't bad if you are just now getting these errors...
Vehicles are not meant to last forever, they can't and if they built them to be more robust most of us could not afford them....
Get yourself a factory manual and you can do a lot of the troubleshooting yourself, granted you may not have access to all the needed tools it should give you a reasonable reference...
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This system is so complex that a manual without the proper scanning equipment would do no good. I took it to a Chevy dealer and they could not get any codes from the system. Their usual repair method is to plug and play(you pay) until they get the right piece. To make a system that is so complex but which is so un-needed with no simple way to repair it is the typical engineer's way of doing something. I've had auto level on other cars and it is a good feature but this system lowers the ride height at 55 mph for better mileage. It will take me 20 years to get any results of mileage improvement to pay for this repair. This is the number 1 complaint on the German cars. Too many computer controlled devices that are so interwoven that when one starts to act up it can affect many other devices. This Tahoe is the best car I have ever owned and the most trouble free. To repair this silly system can easily cost more than a new transmission to repair and its usefulness is questionable at best. BTW Arnott will sell you the shocks and compressor for about $600 total but they offer NO HELP with any trouble shooting. The advice I got from them was to disconnect the ground on the battery before working on the car!
My mechanic is a real wiz when it comes to electronics, we will try to fool the system with resistors in the plug ins for the front shocks I replaced with regular shocks, backs still in Suburban. Reason I wil try this, I plugged in the old shocks to see if the light would go off, it did for a day or so, another way to possibly fool the system, cut off the ends of the old shcks-Bilsteins, stick them in the plug ins. We'll see.
I have the Helm manual for my 02 2500 Suburban (With Autoride) and have been reading it intensively and here is what I think I found out. First off, because my truck is a 2500 it doesn't have the load leveling feature with the air pump.
The system is controlled by the SCM (Suspension Control Module)which detects body roll and suspension movement and adjusts the shocks accordingly. This info is also fed to the BCM(Body Control Module)which also monitors wheel speed, ABS and the EVO. The RPO codes (Z55 and ZK3) are input into the BCM which monitors all the functions of these 2 codes and if you disconnect the shocks or the system detects a voltage flux or change you get the light show on the dash. The Manual states that if you replace the BCM you are supposed to input all your RPO codes into it. If you disconnect the SCM and then input all your RPO codes into the BCM except the 2 autoride codes the system shouldn't detect the Autoride. The reason for disconnecting the SCM is so the BCM doesn't receive any info from it about the suspension. I read on GM-Trucks that a guy with Autoride on his rig pulled the fuse and had no problems except for the light show on the dash. The only catch here is you have to have the GM scan tool to do the programming. I don't know for sure if this idea will work but logic dictates it should so I want to throw it out there to see if anyone has had success getting rid of this system. I don't want to spend $1600.00 to replace the shocks when they finally pack it in. The dealer wouldn't give me any help as well. Let me know what you think and feel free to throw any questions at me in case I missed something. Sorry for the long post.