Drivers Seat removal 2007-2014
#1
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Drivers Seat removal 2007-2014
I have the 6 way adjustable driver's seat that I have just the way I like it but for some reason the working folk at the carwash and oil change place just love to move my seat around..
Well I can't prove it but seems the last time I had my truck at the carwash place they moved the seat way back and down... I'm wondering if maybe the guy doing the vacuuming had the hose hang on the button that lowers the rear back side of the driver's seat because it was jammed hard and would not move back up. It took me a while to discover it because I've just gotten used to my seat being jacked with and it takes a while to get it back where I like it.
I had to pull the seat out today and find out why it was stuck... turns out the gear to lift the back portion of the seat up was stripped of several plastic gear teeth.
Naturally you can't just get that gear part, you have the purchase the whole lower seat assembly for about $400.. nope, ain't gonna happen. I've manually adjusted that to what is comfortable to me and will tweak the seat to what I like and then unplug the motor connection * note you can unplug the motors but do so at the proper connection, otherwise if you unplug the seat module and you may get Service lights come on....
Anyway, it's not just a quick 3/4 in drive socket anymore, you have to have a GM specialty seat rail socket aka V620 socket to remove the front 2 specialty nuts and the nut holding the seatbelt to the seat itself to fully remove the seat from the vehicle.
*you might be able to use a Torx bit but it will have to be a deep well one to throat the floor pan bolt, mine would not work and you ain't gonna drill out the tool steel socket with your Dewalt... I tried.
You will need a Torx E14 for the rear bolts.
You will need to pop out a couple of plastic beauty covers to access the bolts so hopefully if you are doing this you have access to the front to back seat controls as the seat will need to be moved back and forward to access them easily.
The 2 inner front and rear rail beauty covers have press on "speed nuts" in them that may or may not come off with the cover, they can be reused if they pull out just be careful not to tear them up removing them from the bolt head.
Tools needed:
Small flat blade screw driver to pop out beauty access covers
V620 specialty socket for front rail nuts
Torx E14 for rear rail bolts
Needle nose pliers for speed nuts if they come out.
Sorry I didn't get a few pictures of the disassembled gearbox as the moment was a profanity laced tirade of sticky grease and broken plastic gear pieces, however I will give kudo's to the engineer who designed the motor assembly, it simply clips into place and the motors drive flexible steel cables that are square on both ends to simple slide into the gearbox and motor housing..(think the drive cable in your gas weed eater) brilliant serviceability design, however they made no such effort on the actual gear housing/drive assemblies...
Well I can't prove it but seems the last time I had my truck at the carwash place they moved the seat way back and down... I'm wondering if maybe the guy doing the vacuuming had the hose hang on the button that lowers the rear back side of the driver's seat because it was jammed hard and would not move back up. It took me a while to discover it because I've just gotten used to my seat being jacked with and it takes a while to get it back where I like it.
I had to pull the seat out today and find out why it was stuck... turns out the gear to lift the back portion of the seat up was stripped of several plastic gear teeth.
Naturally you can't just get that gear part, you have the purchase the whole lower seat assembly for about $400.. nope, ain't gonna happen. I've manually adjusted that to what is comfortable to me and will tweak the seat to what I like and then unplug the motor connection * note you can unplug the motors but do so at the proper connection, otherwise if you unplug the seat module and you may get Service lights come on....
Anyway, it's not just a quick 3/4 in drive socket anymore, you have to have a GM specialty seat rail socket aka V620 socket to remove the front 2 specialty nuts and the nut holding the seatbelt to the seat itself to fully remove the seat from the vehicle.
*you might be able to use a Torx bit but it will have to be a deep well one to throat the floor pan bolt, mine would not work and you ain't gonna drill out the tool steel socket with your Dewalt... I tried.
You will need a Torx E14 for the rear bolts.
You will need to pop out a couple of plastic beauty covers to access the bolts so hopefully if you are doing this you have access to the front to back seat controls as the seat will need to be moved back and forward to access them easily.
The 2 inner front and rear rail beauty covers have press on "speed nuts" in them that may or may not come off with the cover, they can be reused if they pull out just be careful not to tear them up removing them from the bolt head.
Tools needed:
Small flat blade screw driver to pop out beauty access covers
V620 specialty socket for front rail nuts
Torx E14 for rear rail bolts
Needle nose pliers for speed nuts if they come out.
Sorry I didn't get a few pictures of the disassembled gearbox as the moment was a profanity laced tirade of sticky grease and broken plastic gear pieces, however I will give kudo's to the engineer who designed the motor assembly, it simply clips into place and the motors drive flexible steel cables that are square on both ends to simple slide into the gearbox and motor housing..(think the drive cable in your gas weed eater) brilliant serviceability design, however they made no such effort on the actual gear housing/drive assemblies...
#2
I tightened mine down with a 15mm socket on an extension and handle. Problem I have now is company that installed the carpet lost one. Dealer gets $18 for that funny looking nut and they are all on back order.
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