eikonaws

my 1997 tahoe will not turn over, crank, make a noise or do anything unless i jump it off. I have a new battery and Alt, i have a new starter and all these were installed after i started having problems. i have had the 3 day old battery and Alt tested and they are fine and its charging when running. battery cables and ends are new and tight. All fuses are good. I read where people were having this same problem and had a remote starter and bypass module put in so i followed suit and had one installed. no change whatsoever. i have checked under the dash, hood and drivers seat for wiring issues and have not found any. with the key on everything works (power locks, windows, radio, lights and gauges). I have been driving this tahoe for well over a year and never had a problem. i got in it to go to work tuesday morning and it did nothing.

in2pro

What is the condition of the battery cable running to the under hood fuse box?
are those connections clean and solid all fuses in their sockets correctly and firmly....
If the only way you can get ti to crank is to get a jump start , your lacking adequate voltage and current somewhere and that tells me poor connections..

Make sure the positive cable to the starter is making full contact and no wire jacket or heat shrink is in the way... same for all other electrical connections...

eikonaws

Both the cable to the starter and fuse box are new as of today. Fuse are seated properly and and I traced wires all day on this thing and all check out. I stopped and purchased a used battery for 40 bucks at autozone today just so I can jump it myself instead of having someone boost me everytime I need to leave. If I don't get it fixed soon my next move is going to be to drive it to the back pasture and use it as target practice.

in2pro

Try checking the actual voltage at the starter and compare to what battery reading is... should be very near the same...
Then I'd start check the starter solenoid wire harness and connections....

Some info from the service manual...

Service Information
1997 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Chevy Pickup, GMC Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 166790
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Starting and Charging Circuit (Starting Operation)
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the Ignition Switch from Fuse 6 through the RED (242) wire. When the Ignition Switch is turned to the Start position, voltage is then applied to the CRANK fuse through the YEL (5) wire. From the CRANK fuse, voltage is either applied to the Clutch Pedal Position Switch (Manual Transmission) or the Transmission Range Switch (Automatic Transmission) through the PPL (806) wire. When either the Clutch is disengaged or the Automatic Transmission is in Park or Neutral, voltage is then applied to the coil of the Starter Relay through the PPL (1035) wire. Since the Starter Relay is permanently grounded at G105 through the BLK (150) wire, the relay will energize.

Voltage is applied at all times to the Starter Relay contacts from Fuse 6 through the RED (242) wire. When the Relay energizes, the relay contacts close, and voltage is then applied to the Starter Solenoid. Since the Starter Solenoid is permanently case grounded, the Solenoid will energize two coils. The Pull-in Winding coil will energize to pull the Starter Solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts will cause the Pull-in Winding coil circuit to open. Then the Hold-in Winding coil will hold the Starter Solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the Starter Motor from the Battery through the BLK (1) wire and closed contacts of the Starter Solenoid. Since the Starter Motor is also permanently case grounded, the motor will run until the Ignition Switch is moved out of Start position. When this happens, a spring in the Starter Solenoid will move the Starter Solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.

eikonaws

I will test the voltage today and let you know what it says.

eikonaws

So I checked the battery with a multimeter and its only pushing 8V. I jumped it off and it ran for about 30 seconds before it died on me. I jumped it again and the same thing happened. I went and got another battery and its pushing 12V and my truck started up just fine. I drove it about 10 minutes and it went dead on me and wouldn't make a sound when I turned the key. So I hooked my cables up and jumped it and finally got it home on a 30 minute old $225 battery and its dead. I mean dead. So with that being said. I am having a cookout and shoot out next weekend and me and my buddies are going to blow this truck apart if i cant figure out whats wrong with it. Thanks for your help.

in2pro

Something is shorting out the battery... or draining it... check to make sure all the interior lights are out or turned off, make sure to check the vanity mirrors..

eikonaws

I have checked all the lights including the vanity. If there is something draining the battery it would have to be something very big because it drained a new battery as I was driving it. Autozone has checked my system and told me its charging. I'm about out of options. I have replaced everything I know to replace.

eikonaws

The battery is pushing 8.3 while idle and 9.1-9.3 while running. The new battery is pushing 12 when idle and 14.2-14.7 when running. Even with the new battery it will only run for about 30 seconds then quit and the battery is dead. I took the Alt off today and took it to autozone and they tested it as good and I asked them to swap with me since I had just bought it less than a week ago and the did. I put the new one on and jumped the truck and about 30 seconds later it was dead. I have every light turned off or removed and yet it still dies.

in2pro

Is the starter motor staying on? Not engaged but stuck running... Might try pulling assortment of fuses and relays to help narrow...