2012 Suburban 2500 Suspension
#1
2012 Suburban 2500 Suspension
I have a 2012 Suburban 2500. Just got it a few months ago with about 250k on it. So far everything's going great but I feel like the suspension is shot. I want to replace the front and rear shocks with Rancho 9000's that are adjustable. But aside from that, I'm not sure what else to do.
I assume the rear leaves and front torsion bars are still ok? So should I upgrade either?
Also, I want to level out the front but most leveling kits I find are for the 1500s with springs up front. I have seen a few torsion key kits, but how does that differ from just cranking the torsion bar adjustment? Or, is the best option to get new torsion bars?
GMT900 Suburban-specific (Not Silverado) 2500 info seems to be sparse on the interwebs. Maybe because they were discontinued shortly after that. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
I assume the rear leaves and front torsion bars are still ok? So should I upgrade either?
Also, I want to level out the front but most leveling kits I find are for the 1500s with springs up front. I have seen a few torsion key kits, but how does that differ from just cranking the torsion bar adjustment? Or, is the best option to get new torsion bars?
GMT900 Suburban-specific (Not Silverado) 2500 info seems to be sparse on the interwebs. Maybe because they were discontinued shortly after that. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
#4
So I checked from the ground to the top of the wheel fender front and back. 2" difference as I expected (36.5 vs 38.75). But when I look at the rear there is a good 3" of space between the bump stop and the axle. Up front, the bump stop is pretty much touching the control arm.
Am am I missing something? I thought the 2" body height difference was from factory. But if the 2500's come leveled already, that would make sense that my front end is sagging at least 2" more than the rear, explaining why the bump stop is so close.
If that is the case, why so much sag up front?
Brings me back to my main question, is the only real fix for this replacing the front torsion bars? I would hate to just crank on the adjustment to get ride height but also make them too stiff. Also still confused how thai is different then getting a new torsion key.
Hoping for some Burban 2500 gurus to chime in here. It's an oddball model.
Am am I missing something? I thought the 2" body height difference was from factory. But if the 2500's come leveled already, that would make sense that my front end is sagging at least 2" more than the rear, explaining why the bump stop is so close.
If that is the case, why so much sag up front?
Brings me back to my main question, is the only real fix for this replacing the front torsion bars? I would hate to just crank on the adjustment to get ride height but also make them too stiff. Also still confused how thai is different then getting a new torsion key.
Hoping for some Burban 2500 gurus to chime in here. It's an oddball model.
#5
Administrator
Sounds like the torsion bars need replacing unless someone lower it. But if the bump stop is almost touching, then the ride would be pretty rough in front.
#6
So I read up a bit on the bump stops and the general consensus is that they are designed that way and the stops compress. Many accounts of others with the same situation from stock (1500 included)
Do do you know from experience with the GMT900 2500s or just a general comment?
Do do you know from experience with the GMT900 2500s or just a general comment?