sleek79

My 2007 Yukon with 80000 miles on it just did this today. Stabiltrak service lights came on and got codes p0172 and p0175. This all happened at the same time. Seems to run fine but I would like to know how to get the problem fixed without breaking the bank at a dealership.

Ttahoe

Sleek79:
If you get a real resolution for this please post. I have had this problem on and off for three years and have found no solution. Changed the wiring harness, the wheel stabilizers, the ground, etc and nothing. Just happened again the other day. Getting ready to let my daughter start driving and she won't be driving this car for sure. Dealers just try things with no real answer, partly because apparently these codes can mean lots of different things. But with all symptoms the same, you would think they would be able to find the problem. In any event, if you find a real answer, PLEASE POST IT. Thanks

PS I have the same year and approx same mileage as you.

tahoe-somontan

I found this online which is a generic solution based on the codes you mentioned...

https://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0172-and-P0175

If it was me, I'd start with the easiest of the solutions and doing this one at a time until you figure out what was the culprit...

1. Use fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank. Make sure to also use quality fuel and make sure to reset the codes and drive it like that until next refuel and see if it goes away...

2. Clean the Mass Air Flow sensor. This is relatively easy and you can find video on youtube to show you how to do this. Again, reset the codes afterwards and see if it comes back...

3. Check the spark plugs and see if there is any that are fouled. Don't forget the plug wires can also be a culprit... Reset the codes, etc...

4. Clean the throttle body. There's a redneck video on youtube on how to clean it without taking out the body. I have the link on my earlier post when I fixed by throttle body sensor problem... Reset the codes, etc...

* The other items, you'll probably have to decide what's easy(labor wise) and cost effective for you.

Hopefully you figure out what it was. Curious to know what the fix is!

Good luck,

+ Joe

sleek79

I haven't figured it out yet, you would think the chevy customer service person on this thread would come up with a solution. Im sure this just isn't our cars doing it, its has to be a lot others out there that do it. Lets just hope none of our family members get hurt due to this problem like other problems GM has ignored. Im up for selling the Yukon and completely staying away from GM products all together but I don't want to sell me problem to someone else, would rather do the rite thing and have GM fix it on there dime.

BRICK916

I took mine into the dealer on Friday, they showed me the codes but since I had to disconnet the battery there was nothing they would do. Guess what, I messed up on Saturday and Sunday. Sunday night I took it to the dealer and left it overight because it was gonna be cold and the damn thing didnt do it. Its been two days since it did it but next time im gonna say screw it and call a tow truck. If chevy doenst fix it, im gonnna trade that damn thing in on a Ram or a Ford.

winger_bros

All, have a 07 Silv Crew 212,000 - had the stabilitrak/service indicator a few times in past 8 months. Also have had check engine for a PO174 rich bank - the alcohol level drifts higher and triggers the rich bank (my theory). Anyway, about a month ago the temp sensor for the dash gauge failed - all of a sudden i got warnings like "Shut AC off Engine Hot" but the dash gage read cold (160). So, i pull over and check everything - upper hose warm as should be, burp tank has coolant, no big leaks, etc. I stupidly shut it off and try to restart - BAD IDEA - engine computer locked it out for a start - crank but no start.

Had it towed to local dealer and they checked it out - they saw a stored code for the engine temp sensor, but once they reset the ECM it was fine. Also there was a TSB out on the block heater and the sensor - they are located near each other on same side of engine. Also, the TSB relocates the block heater cord end (plug) to near the engine so the plug end can sense engine temp - remember these have a temperature controlling element and won't turn on unless very cold (below zero).

The TSB relocates the engine temp sensor to opposite side of block and adds a small extension cord to allow the block heater cord end near the engine (to sense the true engine temp versus outside air temp).

Long story short - got truck back, driven about 2000 miles i would guess, and no engine codes, no warnings, nothing. I am not saying this is a cure all by any means - but there have been other things noted in the forum string that have fixed the stabilitrak (things like the brake switch, the throttle position sensor, etc.).

I will keep you posted on how it performs, but i am becoming more convinced that the ECM is extremely sensitive to any/all sensor problems/failures - which is too bad really.

alabang tahoe 08

Youz guyz should watch my video - I made it for this Stabilitrak/ABS idiot light problem - not to get famous on youtube.

I would go around and test all four wheel sensors resistance. it's a simple check, if you don't mind getting a little dirty and understand how to use a multi-meter.

Once you find the bad cable, order and change it.

if you don't find a bad cable, spray some contact cleaner+waterproof elec. grease, snap it back together and check it it's gone.

I did not need an obd to clear the fault. I changed the cable and it went away + Traction / ABS starting working again.

sleek79

I have a couple of multi meters, can you tell us what setting to put it on to test for resistance. I don't have the manual for either one but I guess I can try to figure it out. I did replace one of the front wheel hub assemblies about a week ago and it started after I did that. I took the connector apart and put some di electric grease on it the other day cleared the codes and so far nothing yet but we will see. I am going to do the resistance test.

alabang tahoe 08

set it to ohms, The new one was an open circuit "OL"

The one that was bad was 850 or 945? ohms....it's it the video, the old/dirty cable had resistance.

Dielectric grease in the connectors is a good thing.

Good luck

in2pro

Just for clarification... dielectric grease or silicone grease/paste is not conductive, its primary use in electrical connections is to aid in sealing out moisture and keeping the seals on those connections supple, dry and to keep the rubber from bonding to the hot surface like the ceramic part of the spark plug...
Putting it directly on the electrical connections can make for poor contact...

A good example of how it might be used is to clean up your battery post and cable, attach the cable to the post, tighten it all up and THEN apply a light coat of dielectric grease to the outside of the whole connection to keep it moisture free...
On the electrical connectors you want to apply to the boot and seal area...

When probing/testing electrical connections, be careful not to shove the meter probe tip too far into a connection and force the connection open bigger then the mating pin, as you risk creating a poor or intermittent connection when you put it all back together... and you will be beating your head trying to figure out why something isn't working when you know you just checked the connection! (been there done that)