ekrasny

I think I was able to start the truck once with a new key and then the parts guy at the dealership wanted to reprogram it and it wouldn't learn anymore. Is this why it possibly happening? Because we tried to teach it the second time???

aaron8301

When I say re-key, I mean make a new key for the existing locks by figuring out what key the locks take and making it. It's a very popular thing to do on repo'd cars, as it's much cheaper than replacing the ignition cylinder, front door locks and trunk/rear lift-gate lock.

I didn't realize, however, that Chevy now relates key shape to VIN. This leads me back to my original idea: new key in worn lock. However, since it's a 2007, the cylinder can't be THAT worn.

I suggest calling a real, actual Chevrolet dealer and ask them what it would cost for them to make a new, functional, programmed key that will actually turn the cylinder AND start the truck. Since they have to cut and program it anyway, I don't see why you'd want to buy the key from eBay. See what it would cost for a dealer to provide, cut and program a key.

I called a Ford dealer once to do this for me, they said it would be around ~$50 for a new key if I had an existing one for them to copy, or ~$100 if I had no key and they had to figure out the key pattern (it was for a 1999 Explorer, no key & VIN linking).

On modern cars, keys are one of the few things you SHOULD get from the dealer. They put these anti-theft measures on cars so you CAN'T simply buy a key off the internet and go around stealing cars, so it doesn't surprise me at all that you bought a key off eBay and now it doesn't work. (It's eBay, what did you expect?) The dealer SHOULD be the only entity that can possibly make a working key, so they can verify your ID against your registration to make sure they're making you a key for YOUR car, and not someone else's.

ekrasny

It is about a $100 from a dealer. I paid $15 on ebay plus $15 to cut it to VIN. Now, seems that once they fix the "wiggle" issue I might need to get two new keys anyway. Oh well, off to the dealer tomorrow morning.

ekrasny

Another odd thing I noticed is when I remote start it with key fob and as soon as it starts and I release the button on the fob, it will shut off. If I keep the button depressed for good 10 seconds after the truck started, it will stay on. Could it have something to do with the issue that I can't program the key?

aaron8301

And it didn't work. That's $30 wasted.

ekrasny

Went to a dealer this morning. They managed to program the new key, but 2-3 minutes later it would forget the code and even when we left the truck running with the key in it, it would show theft deterrent error on DIC after a while and wouldn't start anymore once shut off.They wanted to diagnose the issue and possibly replace the cylinder and the theft deterrent module. Wanted to give it a last try, so I got a VIN code from the parts department and took it to a really good locksmith I know. He cut a simple metal key with the factory code and the key worked really well, no wiggling or anything. He then asked me if I want a Chevy key for $60 (which is $30 more than I paid for mine from Ebay and cut at the dealership). I went for it and the key programmed and worked like a charm. Now, I am out $60 for a locksmith key, $15 for Ebay key and $15 to get it cut at the dealership, but I am sure replacing all these parts that didn't need to be replaced plus labor plus two new keys would run me at least $400 or more. Strange thing is that as soon as I put the key dealer cut in the ignition it knocks my new key out and I have to reprogram it again. Bottom line is that the chip in it sure has a problem, plus the dealership didn't cut it right. Locksmith said that the parts guys are not trained locksmiths and it is a very common problem when they cut keys on el cheapo equipment that they never calibrate correctly.

vester

Congrats! It looks like the problem was the key the whole time.