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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Towing advice with my 2011 2500 Suburban

Old July 13th, 2015, 1:03 PM
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Default Towing advice with my 2011 2500 Suburban - 7/31 Update w Pic on post #12

Hello all,
I bought this sweet rig almost a year ago with the intension of pulling a boat with it. Well I think I've finally found the boat and I'll be going out to Lake Havasu in AZ to look at it next weekend. If I like it, I'll be buying it and towing it home. And boy, it's gonna be hot! 100+ degrees for sure. It would be a 26' boat weighing in at 6500-7000 lbs.

The burb is totally stock. No tune, stock tranny cooler, typical 2500 stuff. I've not towed with this rig yet but I'm expecting it to do a great job. Obviously I'll be trailer towing mode, but I'm wondering what other things you guys would recommend? How fast should I try to take the Cajon Pass? How many RPM's can I safely run at going up that grade? How hot can the tranny temp get before I should be concerned? When on the flat, is trailer mode all that's needed? Anything else you can recommend?

Thanks!

Last edited by JCUMV; July 31st, 2015 at 3:44 PM.
Old July 13th, 2015, 8:48 PM
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For a 2500 just put her in tow/haul mode and drive. My 2500 p/u could tow that weight all day through hills in the Canadian shield and never went about 80* C.
My truck didn't need a thing to haul this weight other than a brake controller. No w/d hitch, tune.
Towing mirrors are nice. Manual mode is handy sometimes when hauling very heavy up hills.

Just make sure you have load range e tires.
Old July 13th, 2015, 10:19 PM
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I towed my 6500-lb travel trailer out West last year. Included was a trip through the Eisenhower Tunnel at 11,300 feet. The engine seemed to be in its sweet spot right around 4000 RPMs.

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As said above, don't worry, put it in tow/haul and drive.
Old July 14th, 2015, 7:36 AM
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intheburbs, were you at all concerned with the 230F trans temp or the higher engine temp? Was this with the 6.0 or the 5.3? Or was that just temporary during the climb and subsided after awhile?

I just wonder because on occasion during a climb or during a high temp/humidity outside temp situation I sometimes see higher engine temps for a short period, trans temps go along with it, but I think the highest I've seen is 205F. I have the 5.3 though.
Old July 14th, 2015, 8:42 AM
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Originally Posted by {tpc}
intheburbs, were you at all concerned with the 230F trans temp or the higher engine temp? Was this with the 6.0 or the 5.3? Or was that just temporary during the climb and subsided after awhile?

I just wonder because on occasion during a climb or during a high temp/humidity outside temp situation I sometimes see higher engine temps for a short period, trans temps go along with it, but I think the highest I've seen is 205F. I have the 5.3 though.
No, I was not concerned at all. Dexron 6 is stable well above 250°. I believe you get the transmission temperature warning on the DIC at 265°. Besides pulling the trailer, we also did some four wheeling outside of Moab. Ambient temps were right around 100°, and both the engine and transmission were as high as 235°.

These were just temporary spikes, while under maximum loads. With the trailer, my GCW was just under 15,000 lbs. The engine temp almost never moves off 210°, and the transmission usually runs about 100° over ambient.

A friend of mine works at GM. His first job/project when hired was validating the 6L80/90 transmissions. He said 230-235 was just fine, and that they ran them much hotter during testing and validation.

This was on my 3/4 ton Burb, with the 6.0 and 6L90.

Now, that being said, I did have the transmission serviced by the dealer after that trip. It was close to being due anyways.

Last edited by intheburbs; July 14th, 2015 at 8:46 AM.
Old July 14th, 2015, 9:37 AM
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I'm somewhat a stickler on regular/scheduled maintenance. Knowing that I have clean/fresh Coolant in the Radiator, same for the Transmission, Differential(s) and Transfer Case (if you're 4WD) just gives me piece of mind about those things, and IF you get in a position where they are "taxed", they perform a lot better than if they are old/dirty.

One other thing I will suggest...
Weather you are towing or not, I recommend using the recommended elevated Tire Pressure. These higher pressures enable full loads to be used, better control, cooler running and usually better mileage.

What are they for you...
On the sidewall of all US marketed tires, there is a small impression where it states the MCIP (Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure). I recommend inflating your tires to 2 lbs, below that number for your vehicle and trailer tires.
Old July 14th, 2015, 11:08 AM
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All great pieces of advice. Thanks guys.

Houston, I'll check my tire pressure for sure. They are brand new. You might remember my thread a few months back when I put the new 20" wheels and tires on.

intheburbs, I know from reading your posts that you have lots of experience towing with you 2500 burb, so I'm glad to get your blessing on this. I'm quite surprised to see (in your pic) that your engine temp was barely over 210. I would have expected it to go up just like the trans temp did. Glad to hear 230 tranny temp is okay, as well as 4k RPM's. I guess I would have thought that was on the high side of revving the motor. My guess is that it's going to be near 110 degrees on the way back from the river next weekend, so I wanted to make sure I knew where my numbers should be... especially on the grades.
Old July 14th, 2015, 1:22 PM
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Originally Posted by intheburbs
No, I was not concerned at all. Dexron 6 is stable well above 250°. I believe you get the transmission temperature warning on the DIC at 265°. Besides pulling the trailer, we also did some four wheeling outside of Moab. Ambient temps were right around 100°, and both the engine and transmission were as high as 235°.

These were just temporary spikes, while under maximum loads. With the trailer, my GCW was just under 15,000 lbs. The engine temp almost never moves off 210°, and the transmission usually runs about 100° over ambient.

A friend of mine works at GM. His first job/project when hired was validating the 6L80/90 transmissions. He said 230-235 was just fine, and that they ran them much hotter during testing and validation.

This was on my 3/4 ton Burb, with the 6.0 and 6L90.

Now, that being said, I did have the transmission serviced by the dealer after that trip. It was close to being due anyways.

Thanks for the info and response. I guess I can't compare 100% to mine, since I only have the 4l60e trans I believe, but I always like to hear others informed decisions on stuff like this.

Mine sits on 210 all the time when not under load, and like I said, depending on how much load I am placing on it or the conditions, it will climb, but its always temporary. I've noticed it a bit more this year than last, but then again I've been driving and towing on different roads and conditions a bit more as well.

I think I'm going to get the coolant changed soon, as I am not sure if/when it was done last and its the only thing I have left to change since I got the truck, besides the power steering fluid. I really don't expect better performance as a result, but I don't expect worse either. Just something that needs to be done.
Old July 14th, 2015, 8:35 PM
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A few responses...too lazy to multi quote

SWHouston - yes, the tire sidewall is marked with max cold inflation, but you have to balance that with the pressures on the door sticker. The vehicle is designed to perform optimally at those tire pressures, not the max the tires can be inflated to. I run E load rated tires on my half ton '01 (door sticker says 35 PSI max). I would inflate them higher than 35 when towing, usually to 50 or so.

JCUMV - the 6.0 LOVES to rev. It's not your daddy's small block. I don't think I've ever driven it a day where I haven't wound it to 6K at least once. Max torque comes at 4300 RPM, and max horsepower at 5400 RPM. If you want max performance, keep the revs between those numbers.

TPC - The engine temps were higher when we were four wheeling. Engine got up to about 230 or so, as well as the transmission. Less airflow to cool because we were going very slow. Each time we stopped, I popped the hood to release some heat. It was like opening a blast furnace. I was a bit worried at the time, until I talked to my friend at GM. They do a lot worse to these trucks when testing and validating.

I work this truck hard. I drive it like I stole it (when not towing), I tow a 3500-lb cargo trailer, and I tow a 6500-lb travel trailer. I'm also a geek, so I research the ever-living hell out of something before I dive in. I'm happy to share info so other people can avoid the (very expensive) mistakes I've made.

Took it fourwheeling on this trail..(the black speck in the center is a Jeep)...
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Temperature in Utah (note the reflection in the mirror)
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Travel trailer:
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Cargo trailer:
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Old July 16th, 2015, 8:14 AM
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Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: fishing nut
The 2500 is a towing beast.
You should have no problems towing with it.

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