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2007 Tahoe 4x4 Brake Rotor removal??? HELP
#1
2007 Tahoe 4x4 Brake Rotor removal??? HELP
I'm trying to figure how to remove and replace the front rotors on my wifes 07 4x4 hoe.
Any tips or instructions would be very helpful.
I have replaced the pads before, and now I have upgraded discs and pads to install, and I like to research any jobs before taking them on. Especially since it's her car. I can't leave it on jack stands for too long or momma will not be happy!!
Any tips or instructions would be very helpful.
I have replaced the pads before, and now I have upgraded discs and pads to install, and I like to research any jobs before taking them on. Especially since it's her car. I can't leave it on jack stands for too long or momma will not be happy!!
#2
I'm trying to figure how to remove and replace the front rotors on my wifes 07 4x4 hoe.
Any tips or instructions would be very helpful.
I have replaced the pads before, and now I have upgraded discs and pads to install, and I like to research any jobs before taking them on. Especially since it's her car. I can't leave it on jack stands for too long or momma will not be happy!!
Any tips or instructions would be very helpful.
I have replaced the pads before, and now I have upgraded discs and pads to install, and I like to research any jobs before taking them on. Especially since it's her car. I can't leave it on jack stands for too long or momma will not be happy!!
Remove those, remove the calipers, remove the small "star" set screw in the front of the rotor that holds it to the hub along with the 2 or 3 stud locks and they will come right off.
I would suggest replacing the calipers while you're at it. I know one of mine had a tear in the rubber boot and was causing the top piston to hang on the rotor and not return all the way in, causing premature failure on half the pad.
I think the calipers were about $60 - $80 with exchange and the rotors around $90 - $100 at Advance Auto Parts. They also have a brake tool that you can use to push the calipers back in and a "one man" self-bleeding kit if you open the brake lines to change the calipers. Both work great and are fairly cheap.
FWIW I got it done in about half a day (not counting trips to the parts store for the tools), but it was a frustrating experience and I was dog tired by the time I was done. I'm sure it won't be as bad the second time around if I keep it that long (ceramic pads this time with lifetime warranties).
And, while the brake pads and rotors were worn out and needed replacement, turns out the really bad noise was coming from a bad wheel bearing on the driver's side front that I discovered after the brake job.
The following users liked this post:
Houston443 (October 20th, 2021)
#3
it looks to me like you told the guy how to change to pads and calipers but you never answered his question about how to actually remove the rotors. I'd really be interested in an answer to that question so I can get the FRONT ROTORS NOT CALIPERS off on my 05 hoe
#4
CF Senior Member
I guess you have not done a brake job before, because in order to remove the pads you have done pretty much every thing you need to take the rotor off.
loosten the caliper so you can swing it up out of the way. be careful with the brake line and do not let it hang from that line. most people tie the caliper up with a zip tie or something else.
then you can remove the small screw on the rotor face and pull it right off.
when I replaced ours it was not near as hard as mrslate63 decribed. basic hand tools and some leverage here and there
you can search youtube for plenty of descriptive help if you still need
loosten the caliper so you can swing it up out of the way. be careful with the brake line and do not let it hang from that line. most people tie the caliper up with a zip tie or something else.
then you can remove the small screw on the rotor face and pull it right off.
when I replaced ours it was not near as hard as mrslate63 decribed. basic hand tools and some leverage here and there
you can search youtube for plenty of descriptive help if you still need
The following users liked this post:
Houston443 (October 20th, 2021)
#5
Just in case someone's still looking for info on removing the rear rotors on the 2007 4x4 hoe, (which is why I came to this post) I just read that you can wrench in suitable bolts into the two threaded holes on the hub to push the rotor out. Make sure that your emergency brake is off or they'll never come off. I just did this, and once you got bolts wrenched in the two holes, it slipped right off. I was able to use the 18mm bolts from the calipers.
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2007 Tahoe LT 4x4 Flex Fuel
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2007 Tahoe LT 4x4 Flex Fuel
Last edited by steve.rv; July 2nd, 2013 at 3:34 PM. Reason: add info on my specific vehicle
#7
The bolts steve.rv is talking about are M10 X 1.5 X 30mm bolts and by tightening them it forces the rotor off the hub assembly. You have to remove a retainer bolt (1 of them) by using a T30 bit. There are several good you tube videos that show this well.
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#8
removing set screw is uneccesary
lol just crank that m10 in with a 15mm socket itll pop off
#9
Can't give you the exact steps. It's been about 8 months since I did mine. The one thing I will say is you will need heat, a big cheater bar or an impact gun. There are 2 - 3/4" or metric equivalent bolts holding the caliper and rotor assembly on the hub and frame. These 2 bolts are installed with lock tite and are a bit@h to remove. Mine required a small propane torch to heat them up and my 1/2 drive electric impact gun. They go back in no problem, but removal was another story.
Remove those, remove the calipers, remove the small "star" set screw in the front of the rotor that holds it to the hub along with the 2 or 3 stud locks and they will come right off.
I would suggest replacing the calipers while you're at it. I know one of mine had a tear in the rubber boot and was causing the top piston to hang on the rotor and not return all the way in, causing premature failure on half the pad.
I think the calipers were about $60 - $80 with exchange and the rotors around $90 - $100 at Advance Auto Parts. They also have a brake tool that you can use to push the calipers back in and a "one man" self-bleeding kit if you open the brake lines to change the calipers. Both work great and are fairly cheap.
FWIW I got it done in about half a day (not counting trips to the parts store for the tools), but it was a frustrating experience and I was dog tired by the time I was done. I'm sure it won't be as bad the second time around if I keep it that long (ceramic pads this time with lifetime warranties).
And, while the brake pads and rotors were worn out and needed replacement, turns out the really bad noise was coming from a bad wheel bearing on the driver's side front that I discovered after the brake job.
Remove those, remove the calipers, remove the small "star" set screw in the front of the rotor that holds it to the hub along with the 2 or 3 stud locks and they will come right off.
I would suggest replacing the calipers while you're at it. I know one of mine had a tear in the rubber boot and was causing the top piston to hang on the rotor and not return all the way in, causing premature failure on half the pad.
I think the calipers were about $60 - $80 with exchange and the rotors around $90 - $100 at Advance Auto Parts. They also have a brake tool that you can use to push the calipers back in and a "one man" self-bleeding kit if you open the brake lines to change the calipers. Both work great and are fairly cheap.
FWIW I got it done in about half a day (not counting trips to the parts store for the tools), but it was a frustrating experience and I was dog tired by the time I was done. I'm sure it won't be as bad the second time around if I keep it that long (ceramic pads this time with lifetime warranties).
And, while the brake pads and rotors were worn out and needed replacement, turns out the really bad noise was coming from a bad wheel bearing on the driver's side front that I discovered after the brake job.
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