2008 Uplander Heat Problem?
November 19th, 2014, 8:56 AM
#71
Problematic van
I spent last winter addressing the heat problems with this van. Finally they discovered leaking water pump and replaced it. Heat worked good the rest of the winter. Now it started doing the same thing this winter. I just got done addressing the stearing problems with this van and am seriously tired of hauling this problematic van to the shop. I am assuming there is probably another leak somewhere in the cooling system. They said last year they have seen the head gaskets go bad in this van but reassured me mine were fine at the time. My van heats wonderful when I am driving down the road but dramatically drops temp at idle. I was told the heater core sits high up so any amount of air that may have gotten in the system from a possible leak sits in the heater core except when rpms increase and the air bubble then circulates hence warmer heat when driving. My van only has about 86000 miles on it. I would strongly discourage anyone from buying this vehicle unless they enjoy visiting the mechanic every couple of months.
November 24th, 2014, 7:04 PM
#72
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Nothing but trouble!
We have this problem with ours too. Last year we had it "fixed" as well, but honestly it was in for so many problems that I cant remember what they did for this part of it. It's happening again now that we need it. My son cries every time we get in the car because his carseat is so cold.
The car also starts only when it's in the mood. We've put lots of time and money into this problem too with no luck. Going to look for a thread about that next.
We own two Chevy vehicles and I'm really not impressed.
The car also starts only when it's in the mood. We've put lots of time and money into this problem too with no luck. Going to look for a thread about that next.
We own two Chevy vehicles and I'm really not impressed.
December 1st, 2014, 2:11 PM
#73
Hi All,
I would like to let everyone know how I eventually started getting heat from my 2008 Pontiac SV6 (Same as Chevy Uplander)
Before starting my rant here I need to specify a few things.
A) I was not losing rad fluid
B) The van heated fine after 2000 RPM or so, but did not produce heat at idle
These are the steps that I followed in order to successfully get heat from the van.
1) I replaced the rad cap (originally with a 18psi with a 15psi from the local auto supplier) No change. (replaced about a month ago)
2) Purchased a funnel system from Amazon in order to purge the air from the system. I tried the process about 4 times, running at approx 2200 rpm, until the fluid started rising. Then shut-off until cooldown. No Change.
3) Decided to purchase a 4' length of 5/8" heater hose, and run a bypass from the thermostat housing to the heater core. (I could not get the hose off from the heater core, (it is the bottom hose), so I cut the hose, and put a 1/2" barb to join the 2 pipes together, clamped with hose clamps. If you can get your hose off, it makes a nicer joint.
4) Purged the air from the system with the funnel from #2 above. (A little bit of air, but not much)
5) At first, it didn't seem to have an effect. At idle, the hose that I put in (on the input side to the heater core was substantially cooler than the out side of the heater core. Only when the rpm reaches 2000 rpm or so does the hose get hot, indicating that flow is occurring into the heater core. I was getting a little depressed at this point.
6) This morning, I started the van, left it run for about 5 min, got in and WOW! Heat!
The temperature was not even close to normal (just right of the center mark) - it was at about 10 o clock.
With all of the pissing around I had to go through with this van with this issue, it appears as though it has something to do with the hose reducing, bending and connecting of the steel line. I simply abandoned the steel line, and am now running with the hose running around the front of the engine, then to the back on the drivers side.
I have some pics if anyone needs them.
BTW, I found a GM service bulletin online that I will post, that indicates a possible air-lock or flow problem, that is inherent to these vehicles from year 2005-2009.
Talk soon,
I would like to let everyone know how I eventually started getting heat from my 2008 Pontiac SV6 (Same as Chevy Uplander)
Before starting my rant here I need to specify a few things.
A) I was not losing rad fluid
B) The van heated fine after 2000 RPM or so, but did not produce heat at idle
These are the steps that I followed in order to successfully get heat from the van.
1) I replaced the rad cap (originally with a 18psi with a 15psi from the local auto supplier) No change. (replaced about a month ago)
2) Purchased a funnel system from Amazon in order to purge the air from the system. I tried the process about 4 times, running at approx 2200 rpm, until the fluid started rising. Then shut-off until cooldown. No Change.
3) Decided to purchase a 4' length of 5/8" heater hose, and run a bypass from the thermostat housing to the heater core. (I could not get the hose off from the heater core, (it is the bottom hose), so I cut the hose, and put a 1/2" barb to join the 2 pipes together, clamped with hose clamps. If you can get your hose off, it makes a nicer joint.
4) Purged the air from the system with the funnel from #2 above. (A little bit of air, but not much)
5) At first, it didn't seem to have an effect. At idle, the hose that I put in (on the input side to the heater core was substantially cooler than the out side of the heater core. Only when the rpm reaches 2000 rpm or so does the hose get hot, indicating that flow is occurring into the heater core. I was getting a little depressed at this point.
6) This morning, I started the van, left it run for about 5 min, got in and WOW! Heat!
The temperature was not even close to normal (just right of the center mark) - it was at about 10 o clock.
With all of the pissing around I had to go through with this van with this issue, it appears as though it has something to do with the hose reducing, bending and connecting of the steel line. I simply abandoned the steel line, and am now running with the hose running around the front of the engine, then to the back on the drivers side.
I have some pics if anyone needs them.
BTW, I found a GM service bulletin online that I will post, that indicates a possible air-lock or flow problem, that is inherent to these vehicles from year 2005-2009.
Talk soon,
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Zack 75 (January 22nd, 2022)
December 17th, 2014, 5:51 PM
#75
Still have heat!
Just letting everyone know that up here in cold Ontario Canada, it is possible to be warm in an Uplander or SV6.
I am updating everyone that it has been over 2 weeks without issue, just nice and warm within minutes.
Just add that bypass hose, and it should address the issue.
Have fun!
I am updating everyone that it has been over 2 weeks without issue, just nice and warm within minutes.
Just add that bypass hose, and it should address the issue.
Have fun!
December 18th, 2014, 11:12 PM
#76
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Hi All,
I would like to let everyone know how I eventually started getting heat from my 2008 Pontiac SV6 (Same as Chevy Uplander)
Before starting my rant here I need to specify a few things.
A) I was not losing rad fluid
B) The van heated fine after 2000 RPM or so, but did not produce heat at idle
These are the steps that I followed in order to successfully get heat from the van.
1) I replaced the rad cap (originally with a 18psi with a 15psi from the local auto supplier) No change. (replaced about a month ago)
2) Purchased a funnel system from Amazon in order to purge the air from the system. I tried the process about 4 times, running at approx 2200 rpm, until the fluid started rising. Then shut-off until cooldown. No Change.
3) Decided to purchase a 4' length of 5/8" heater hose, and run a bypass from the thermostat housing to the heater core. (I could not get the hose off from the heater core, (it is the bottom hose), so I cut the hose, and put a 1/2" barb to join the 2 pipes together, clamped with hose clamps. If you can get your hose off, it makes a nicer joint.
4) Purged the air from the system with the funnel from #2 above. (A little bit of air, but not much)
5) At first, it didn't seem to have an effect. At idle, the hose that I put in (on the input side to the heater core was substantially cooler than the out side of the heater core. Only when the rpm reaches 2000 rpm or so does the hose get hot, indicating that flow is occurring into the heater core. I was getting a little depressed at this point.
6) This morning, I started the van, left it run for about 5 min, got in and WOW! Heat!
The temperature was not even close to normal (just right of the center mark) - it was at about 10 o clock.
With all of the pissing around I had to go through with this van with this issue, it appears as though it has something to do with the hose reducing, bending and connecting of the steel line. I simply abandoned the steel line, and am now running with the hose running around the front of the engine, then to the back on the drivers side.
I have some pics if anyone needs them.
BTW, I found a GM service bulletin online that I will post, that indicates a possible air-lock or flow problem, that is inherent to these vehicles from year 2005-2009.
Talk soon,
I would like to let everyone know how I eventually started getting heat from my 2008 Pontiac SV6 (Same as Chevy Uplander)
Before starting my rant here I need to specify a few things.
A) I was not losing rad fluid
B) The van heated fine after 2000 RPM or so, but did not produce heat at idle
These are the steps that I followed in order to successfully get heat from the van.
1) I replaced the rad cap (originally with a 18psi with a 15psi from the local auto supplier) No change. (replaced about a month ago)
2) Purchased a funnel system from Amazon in order to purge the air from the system. I tried the process about 4 times, running at approx 2200 rpm, until the fluid started rising. Then shut-off until cooldown. No Change.
3) Decided to purchase a 4' length of 5/8" heater hose, and run a bypass from the thermostat housing to the heater core. (I could not get the hose off from the heater core, (it is the bottom hose), so I cut the hose, and put a 1/2" barb to join the 2 pipes together, clamped with hose clamps. If you can get your hose off, it makes a nicer joint.
4) Purged the air from the system with the funnel from #2 above. (A little bit of air, but not much)
5) At first, it didn't seem to have an effect. At idle, the hose that I put in (on the input side to the heater core was substantially cooler than the out side of the heater core. Only when the rpm reaches 2000 rpm or so does the hose get hot, indicating that flow is occurring into the heater core. I was getting a little depressed at this point.
6) This morning, I started the van, left it run for about 5 min, got in and WOW! Heat!
The temperature was not even close to normal (just right of the center mark) - it was at about 10 o clock.
With all of the pissing around I had to go through with this van with this issue, it appears as though it has something to do with the hose reducing, bending and connecting of the steel line. I simply abandoned the steel line, and am now running with the hose running around the front of the engine, then to the back on the drivers side.
I have some pics if anyone needs them.
BTW, I found a GM service bulletin online that I will post, that indicates a possible air-lock or flow problem, that is inherent to these vehicles from year 2005-2009.
Talk soon,
December 27th, 2014, 5:56 PM
#77
Here are some Pics of what was done,
1)Basically, remove the 5/8" Hose from the thermostat housing and replace with the new hose end.
2)Remove the lower hose from the heater core, and connect the other end of the 4' hose with a nice gentle sweep of the hose around the engine.
Start and purge air if required, and enjoy heat from a very poor performance water pump.
My technical opinion is that the original OEM pump does not meet the minimum flow requirements of the bends and joints in the original flow pattern. By reducing the bends significantly, the poor quality pump can achieve flowrates to fill and push fluid through the heater core. This is a very quick and simple way to test your system, and if it works, leave it alone.
This modification in no way will limit the performance of the cooling system, as it is simply removing restrictive passages thus providing a warm -- hot vehicle!
Good luck, and fix that Chevy or Pontiac!
2)Remove the lower hose from the heater core, and connect the other end of the 4' hose with a nice gentle sweep of the hose around the engine.
Start and purge air if required, and enjoy heat from a very poor performance water pump.
My technical opinion is that the original OEM pump does not meet the minimum flow requirements of the bends and joints in the original flow pattern. By reducing the bends significantly, the poor quality pump can achieve flowrates to fill and push fluid through the heater core. This is a very quick and simple way to test your system, and if it works, leave it alone.
This modification in no way will limit the performance of the cooling system, as it is simply removing restrictive passages thus providing a warm -- hot vehicle!
Good luck, and fix that Chevy or Pontiac!
January 20th, 2016, 9:57 PM
#78
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Inconsistent heat
I have the same problem as others have written in this form. Here is a list to what has been done over the last two years....replaced head gasket. ..replaced water pump. ...replaced thermostat....replaced heater core....been burpped acouple times....coolant flushed And Still inconsistent heat. All work has been done at dealership. Dealership now says there's nothing else they know to do. So where does that leave me....SCREWED and no reliable heat
January 20th, 2016, 10:56 PM
#79
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Whatever became of the Traxx? When it First came out I had to search for anything about it. It seems to have been about a year and nothing more has been heard about it. Chevrolet never seemed to advertise it much.
Handlebar Said it
Handlebar Said it
January 27th, 2016, 5:23 PM
#80
Mr TLL,
Did you follow my advice above?
I have not experienced any heating/cooling issue since my modification mentioned previously, and more importantly- I have lots of heat - even at 800rpm - where before it wasn't until 1800 or so would the heat start working....not so good for trying to warm up your cold icebox before going to work.
It has been great since the fix.
Did you follow my advice above?
I have not experienced any heating/cooling issue since my modification mentioned previously, and more importantly- I have lots of heat - even at 800rpm - where before it wasn't until 1800 or so would the heat start working....not so good for trying to warm up your cold icebox before going to work.
It has been great since the fix.