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- Chevrolet Silverado 1999-2006 GMT800 How to Replace Wheel Bearings
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
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Anyone replaced wheel bearings yet?
#12
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I've never found the entire text of the TSBs usually only the titles. I think if you're an ALLDATA subscriber you can have access to them. I'm sure there are other ways, I don't know that any of them are free though. Your local mechanic might be able to help you?
We've replaced 3 front wheel bearings and had the sensor wiring and the harness wiring replaced in about 55000 miles. Fortunately all under warranty. I think its just one of those things....
We've replaced 3 front wheel bearings and had the sensor wiring and the harness wiring replaced in about 55000 miles. Fortunately all under warranty. I think its just one of those things....
#15
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Chisel and a 4lb hammer, penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster), torch.
On some of them there are holes in the flange (where the wheel mounts). If you have the bolts taken out from the back (from the knuckle) you can put a bolt through the the hole in the flange into the threaded mounting hole (don't go through to the knuckle!) and then find something long for leverage and try to spin it free by putting it across the lug bolts and twisting. Since it isn't threaded in there, just corrosion and rust, you can try working it in both directions. Of course if this is a drive wheel you will either need to put the vehicle in neutral (chock the other wheels real good) or push the axle in far enough to disengage it from the hub.
On some of them there are holes in the flange (where the wheel mounts). If you have the bolts taken out from the back (from the knuckle) you can put a bolt through the the hole in the flange into the threaded mounting hole (don't go through to the knuckle!) and then find something long for leverage and try to spin it free by putting it across the lug bolts and twisting. Since it isn't threaded in there, just corrosion and rust, you can try working it in both directions. Of course if this is a drive wheel you will either need to put the vehicle in neutral (chock the other wheels real good) or push the axle in far enough to disengage it from the hub.
#16
My rt ft had a little play. Replaced w genuine ac delco and now no intermittant ABS light.
Hardest part is getting extensions and sockets on the back 13mm bolts for the 100 ft lb torque. Took me hour and half. Use blue thread lock to reassemble, or new bolts.
Hardest part is getting extensions and sockets on the back 13mm bolts for the 100 ft lb torque. Took me hour and half. Use blue thread lock to reassemble, or new bolts.
#17
We own a scrap yard and had a customer haul an 06 uplander to us for scrap. After checking it out, we found out that all that was wrong was 3 of the wheel bearings were shot. We figured that after finding out how much a shop wanted to change them and given that it had almost 200k on it, that they just chose to scrap it instead. We put all 4 new wheel bearings on it and have put about 23k on it since then. not bad for a $200 van lol.
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uaart1 (July 16th, 2022)
#18
After the OEM bearings went...
After the OEM bearings went at about 180k km it has become an annual event as the ABS, TC and Chk Engine Light comes on. The hum pretty good as well. Put on cheaper ones and more expensive MOOG ones. Same results roughly a year and only put on about 18 000 km on them. The dash lights come on within a month of new bearings. Code shows wheel bearings only.
#19
i used a GMB brand (japanese company, china mfr) on the front right that was roaring loud while driving faster than 25mph... so far so good its been a few years, and probably 15-20k miles or so. notably the old/bad bearing spun fine, a piece was visibly crooked in the assembly... i think it may have been repairable with a deadblow hammer... but at $40 or less for a GMB i didnt bother trying
#20
yes several
i have a 2006 uplander with 190,000 miles and have replaced the drivers side twice and passenger once since ive owned it. axle nut nut is 34mm and 3 bolts that hold it on are 15mm.