Uplander- Power Sliding Doors
April 7th, 2010, 8:26 PM
#41
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This thread about problems with power sliding doors is exactly why I never ordered this option when I ordered my 2005 Uplander from the factory. I was not convinced that GM would build a trouble free power sliding door. I have not had any problems with the manual sliding doors. Did experience a failure with the struts on the back hatch door. Brakes on the new Uplanders were all a sub standard product. Mine squeaked from day one, however I rectified the problem by replacing all the brake pads with an after market set of pads.
April 22nd, 2010, 10:02 PM
#42
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Power Door Problem -Possible Solution
I work at a dealership and it seems that whenever we have a power door issue with these vans, the most common problem is corrosion at the connectors where the door closes. When your door is open and you look at the front side door post, you will see a brass colored contact plate. On the door you will see the 'pins' that touch the contact points. More then likely it will be corroded and dirty. if the door is not getting all the proper signals, funny things will result. Dingers going off, doors not opening or closing... stuff like that. What we do is clean these contacts so that any signals being sent to and from the door are not hindered. Simply use some steel wool or similar and scrub it till it is nice and shiny. It seemed to solve a lot of the problems for us. Hope that helps some people.
June 26th, 2010, 12:29 PM
#43
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Power door problems
I too have an 05 Uplander. Have had many issues with doors and sensors. My problem is on driver side. After many trips to dealership(s) finally took it to a body shop. He disabled the power door because he couldn't get the dinger to stop either. When he took the door apart he told me that there was a bad relay in the door which would cost over $200.00 just for the part. He also told me that the door had be wrecked and not reassembled correctly. I bought the vehicle new off the lot. Six months of no dinging but now has started again. Doesn't even stop when car is turned off. Also does not tell me which door it is coming from. Driving me nuts.
Also have had problem with low fuel alerts and engine light after filling up. LIke others, does correct itself after about a day or normal driving.
Have had similar brake problems but dealership said it was just the way I drive. LOL
Sometimes does not start without hitting the gas. Dealership explained that it was normal, it shouldn't just start by hitting the ignition.
No other engine problems. Has run well for four years now but need it to keep running another four or five if I don't go nuts over the dinging.
Also have had problem with low fuel alerts and engine light after filling up. LIke others, does correct itself after about a day or normal driving.
Have had similar brake problems but dealership said it was just the way I drive. LOL
Sometimes does not start without hitting the gas. Dealership explained that it was normal, it shouldn't just start by hitting the ignition.
No other engine problems. Has run well for four years now but need it to keep running another four or five if I don't go nuts over the dinging.
November 9th, 2010, 9:39 PM
#44
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2005 Chevy Uplander - driver side passenger sliding door problems
I am having the same problem..I have taken in my uplander twice including today and the first time I was told it was the keyless entry...so we had that fixed..problem not resolved...this time I was told it's the "unlock actuator inside door"
Now I would like to find out how to install the part..I do not want to pay $365 to have the dealer install
Now I would like to find out how to install the part..I do not want to pay $365 to have the dealer install
December 19th, 2010, 4:26 PM
#45
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Hello all, we have a 2005 Uplander with roughly 60,000 miles on it. We originally leased it for three years, but made the unfortunate decision to buy it out at the end. Since then, between the brakes and the sliding doors, we're at our wits' end. The sad part is that the only way we're going to extract any value from this thing is to get a GM dealership to take it on trade. I know other manufacturers have their problems, but as others have said, they eventually cop to it. As a longtime, loyal GM family, this van probably marks the end of the road for us.
Just a quick question and remark...
Can you tell us anything else about this chevytech?
I've tried cleaning the contacts, but never with steel wool. Going outside to try it now and I'll report back...
Just a quick question and remark...
I've tried cleaning the contacts, but never with steel wool. Going outside to try it now and I'll report back...
Last edited by vinster; December 19th, 2010 at 4:30 PM.
December 19th, 2010, 9:17 PM
#46
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Anyone happen to know the part numbers for the pad and the pins?
March 9th, 2011, 10:19 AM
#47
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Having the same problem with both power doors, and am reluctant to go to a dealer and wasting money after reading these posts. A GM tech bulletin indicates the need to reprogram the door with a tech 2 device that you need to re-teach the door what opened and closed means. Once they do that I'm not sure how long it will be 'till it forgets again. Rear latch on drivers side doesn't seem to be doing it's job either. I'd be satisfied with disabling the motors and using the door manually if I could stop the stupid alarm.
March 22nd, 2011, 10:33 AM
#48
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Sorry that I didn't post this right away, but I'm just getting to old email now and I really wanted to share this with you. After searching high and low for a solution to the door problems, I came across an article from January 2009. I've included the link and the test of the article below. I didn't think it would work but it has, and for over a month now! All it took was for me to bang the trim piece back into place and voila, problem solved.
I'm sure this won't solve everyone's problems, but it should help some!
Borrowed from: Reports: 2004-2006 Chevy Uplander Sliding Door Problems - Topix
Everybody. Please listen up. Most of the problems with your doors are the weather stripping on the floor in the doorway. Look right at the front of it. If it is pushed down and not pushed back on the plastic trim and level with the rest of the strip, then that is causing some of your problems. Do you ever shut the door and it almost closes but then starts the dinging and opens back up like there is something blocking it? You look all over and can not find anything in the way. Look at the weather striping. It took me a while to find my problem but I can fix it ever time now that I know what to look for. People getting out of the van from the second row slide their feet right across the strip which in turns pulls it off the mount and it lays down right in front of where the door travels as it closes. Please check this out on your vans. It is 90% of the problems I read here. Also be sure the metal clip on the seat belt has not fallen out of the back of the opening after your passengers get out. It will block open the back of the door. The door looks shut but you might get the digging as you drive and the door may open on its own when you don't want it to from vibration going down the road.
I hope this helps some of you out.
Everybody. Please listen up. Most of the problems with your doors are the weather stripping on the floor in the doorway. Look right at the front of it. If it is pushed down and not pushed back on the plastic trim and level with the rest of the strip, then that is causing some of your problems. Do you ever shut the door and it almost closes but then starts the dinging and opens back up like there is something blocking it? You look all over and can not find anything in the way. Look at the weather striping. It took me a while to find my problem but I can fix it ever time now that I know what to look for. People getting out of the van from the second row slide their feet right across the strip which in turns pulls it off the mount and it lays down right in front of where the door travels as it closes. Please check this out on your vans. It is 90% of the problems I read here. Also be sure the metal clip on the seat belt has not fallen out of the back of the opening after your passengers get out. It will block open the back of the door. The door looks shut but you might get the digging as you drive and the door may open on its own when you don't want it to from vibration going down the road.
I hope this helps some of you out.
March 22nd, 2011, 11:58 AM
#49
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Thanks for the tip. My wife has been driving a 2007 uplander with about 56000 on it. She did have a problem where bell would ring with the doors closed early on but the dealer took care of the problem . Once in a while the door would open and close but we would be able to close it. I know the seal your talking about, which makes sense because the door is sensing blockage and keep opening. Since I will be giving up my trailblazer for a new cruze for my wife I will be taking over the uplander I"ll have to keep a eye on it
July 6th, 2011, 6:33 AM
#50
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we are having a similar problem with our 2007 uplander. our dealer sent it to the body shop for diagnostics. they say the rear hinge is the problem and that is the next step. 5 trips to service, no solution from GM! now the body shop says the problem is an expensive 100 dollar hinge that supports the entire door (poor design) has to be replaced to correct this issue. At least the body shop was able to point to visible wear on the door seal as the cause of the door sensor thinking there was something in the way and causing the door to open again. lets hope this works as I am tired of paying for something that GM is responsible for! poor design, inferior part to start with causing my grandchildren danger cause the sliding door just opens with out notice and then cannot be closed properly without trying multiple times!