monte1270

I too am having rotor problems with my Uplander. At first I would get a rumble when I stop. Now at 39k mi. My steering wheel actually wobbles from left to right. I'm sooo fed up with these brakes.
I spoke to the dealer who said I can either replace or resurface them for $330.

I guess I'll replace them all together. I only have a litle more than a year left on my lease and I'm turning this thing in. Probably for a Toyota.

srp204

It was so bad on my 05 I was certain the wheel nuts were lose, when that didn't cure it I took off the front calipers and checked the pads and rotors Everything looked fine so I put it all back together and after pumping the brakes to reseat the piston I tried it. I can now just sense a very slight throbing as I brake, but if it comes back it's another set of rotors and pads are going on. The rotors were resurfaced once at 20,000 k and replaced at 50 and about every 50,000 km it starts again. I'm at 170000 km and this time I'm get NON GM parts, it's either terrible parts or very poor engineering, I suspect both. Compared to the 4 Dodge minivans I've had this is just an ill concieved product, I'd never buy another GM product.

shawnb

Changing the rotors and pads on my 2006 Montana. Used to my previous Silhouette, didn't expect a hub nut holding the rotor on. What's the socket size on your Uplander hub nuts? Or maybe I'm looking at this wrong and all that holding the rotors on is the torx screw?

Danny Broyles

I wish someone would have answered the question about changing the front rotor. I presume the 36-38mm nut in the center is holding the rotor on? I've tried to free it with an impact wrench set at 100psi and it ain't budgin! Any tips or anyone got dynamite??

442dude

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


The hub nut is not holding on the rotor...stop trying to remove it!!!!!

The only things that hold on the rotor are the lug nuts/wheel and there's also a small torx screw that may or may not be there-be sure that you have removed it before you try to remove the rotor..

That being said, depending on where you live, the rotors on these will rust pretty firmly right to the hub. The way to free them is with good beating from a hammer. You have to hit them hard from front back and sides and be persistant if they are stuck and you will get them free. Before you reinstall new ones, make sure you wire brush all of the rust off the hub surface and maybe even brush a super light coating of never-seez on it so next time they will come off easier.

Also - replace them with a name brand other than AC Delco and you will get much better life out of them. I replaced mine with Raybestos discs from Rock Auto and have had much better success. If you have any other questions, post away - I'll keep an eye out.

Danny Broyles

The only thing that didn't make sense about the nut is that it looks like it's holding on the rotor. My next question was going to be about the smaller torx nut. OK, so I'll remove the torx nut and beat the crap out of the rotor ! I'll let you know how it goes.

I have researched this particular topic for longer than it will take to complete the entire brake job! So I'm glad we are establishing dialogue for others. I'm going to video the job as well and put it on YouTube since the only other video even coming close ifsfull of non-kid friendly language and really does no justice to proper mechanicing.

Last question, "Is there anything about the rear brake/rotor replacement different from the front?"

Thanks for the help!

442dude

Hi Danny - I'm glad to help! I've done front and rear on the Uplander so I'll be happy to answer any questions.

I think the little torx nut is just an aid that they use on the assembly line otherwise I can't figure out why they put it there. It screws straight through the rotor into the hub and there's no way you could get the rotor off without removing it. The rotor might pop right off once you take it out. Here's hoping!!!

As for the rear - its the same. There is a difference with replacing the pads though: On the front, once you remove the pads you can just use a c clamp or similar to back out the calipers so you can put the new pads on. The rears are different. Firstly, before you take out the rear pads, note the position of the 2 "tabs" on the piston in relation to how they contact the brake pad. THIS IS IMPORTANT! To back out the pistons on the rears you don't use a c-clamp but there is a special tool to do it with. I think its called a GM brake tool-its cheap (under $10) at any auto parts store. It looks like a 1 inch square metal cube. Using your ratchet and the tool, you have to screw the piston back into the caliper. Make sure that you have the 2 tabs on the piston in the identical orientation that they were in before you start turning once you are done. This is important because the piston adjusts for brake wear by unscrewing as you drive and if the tabs are not sitting in the right place when you install the new pads they will not be able to twist and may not auto adjust. I hope I explained that well.....

The advantage to this is that they were able to eliminate that crazy parking brake setup like GM had on the rears in the past and now its just the disc brakes. Just make sure your tabs are lined up before you put the new pads in.

And lastly: If you don't want to have to deal with your rotors for a while, stay away from the AC Delco - I used Raybestos and had good succcess.

Also lastly: GM procedures also state that after you have completed the brake job, the last step is to "burnish the brake pads". This is supposed to give longer life to the pads and rotors. It consists of about 25 starts and stops from 0-30 and such. If you google it I'm sure you can get the full text of how exactly to do it. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll type it out for you from the Service manual.

Good Luck - I'll be around if you run into trouble and need info!

Danny Broyles

Yep, the rear brakes are not appearing to be anything like the front. I removed the retaining bolts that hold the outer caliper and nothing is budging. Is there something else to remove?

Let's make this simple. What are the steps for rear brake/rotor removal?

Thanks in advance!

p.s. I made a video of the front end job. I'll put it on YouTube in a bit and post the link here.

tech2

if you live in the rust belt...yearly brake service is required; which involves cleaning the caliper bracket and lubing the caliper pins. It will extend the life of your brakes.

442dude

Here's a copy and paste of the procedure....Since you can't use a c clamp to compress the piston in the rear it takes a little more effort to get the caliper off of the disc...that's probably why you think its stuck.


Rear Brake Pads

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


NOTE:
Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. If the brake fluid level is midway
between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, then no brake fluid needs
to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding. If the brake fluid level is higher than
midway between the maximum full point and the minimum allowable level, then remove brake
fluid to the midway point before proceeding.

2. Remove the wheel, marking the location of the wheel to the hub prior to removal. Mark the
individual location of all retainers as they are removed.

3. Remove or disconnect the following:

Unclamp the wheel speed sensor (WSS) harness from the lower control arm

Upper and lower caliper bolts from the caliper

Pull the caliper straight off of the bracket and secure out of the way with heavy mechanics
wire. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper

Remove Inboard and outboard pads from the brake caliper bracket



To install:

1. Clean the brake pad hardware mating surfaces on the caliper bracket of any debris or
corrosion.

2. Inspect the brake pad retainer clips and replace, if necessary.

3. Inspect the piston boot. Replace if damaged.

4. Retract the brake caliper piston into the brake caliper bore. Use a suitable spanner type
wrench and turn the piston clockwise until it bottoms out fully in the brake caliper.

5. Align the indents on the piston face to match the pin on the back of the inboard brake pads.

6. Install or connect the following:

Brake pad retainers into the brake caliper bracket

Inboard and outboard brake pads into the brake caliper bracket insuring that the pad with the
metallic wear sensor is placed on the inboard side of the bracket

Slide the caliper onto the bracket insuring that the bracket guide boots are not damaged

Brake caliper bolts and tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm)

Reinstall WSS harness onto the lower control arm

7. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm) in a criss-
cross pattern, after aligning the wheel hub with the reference mark and holes as shown in
appropriate illustration.

8. Lower the vehicle.

9. With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2 / 3 of its travel
distance. Slowly release the brake pedal.

10. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps until a firm brake pedal apply is obtained. This will
properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.

11. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.