Schroeder

Alright guys, I have the infamous passenger window stuck down issue. I must admit it's on an OLDS 2003 silhouette, but it's the same thing as a venture. The window thing happened to me 4 years ago. I replaced the window motor without checking anything first in ignorance. I assumed that was what had to be it. It wasn't, and I think I replaced the passenger side switch and the driver switch. Neither fixed the issue. Again, I **THINK** I replaced both switches at different points, but this was 4 years ago. I know at least one was replaced, but not sure which one.

Anyway, i've done some testing because not being able to use the passenger window switch is driving me mad after all this time. So, I got a used set of switches from a donor venture, but I think they're worse than what I have as this set even has intermittent driver window control. The driver side has never been an issue for me. This has led me to believe the switches ARE NOT the problem. I have also opened the switch and looked at the connections and ran the switch manually per this video: . It did not work.

I am able to get the passenger window to function by jumping the yellow wire (+12v) in the switch plug to the dark blue wire and by jumping the brown wire to the black (ground) wire in the plug. This is on the passenger side. If on the drivers side I give power (yellow wire) to the light blue wire (passenger window motor up per this diagram: http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/imag...-Schematic.gif) and ground the tan wire nothing happens on the passenger side. The window will no longer respond to go down either. It seems like every once in awhile with the donor switch I got it to inch down last week while working on the issue.

I checked continuity next. I pulled the switches off both sides and with my voltmeter I reached it across the van. There was continuity in the yellow, black, light blue, and small grey wire. I did NOT have continuity in the switch plugs from side to side of the van on the tan, dark brown, or dark blue wires. I am thinking that I am not supposed to have continuity from side to side of the van on the dark blue and tan wires or the windows would operate in unison, but I could be wrong. Let me know if I am.

I have also tried the test the rep describes here albeit he seems to type in broken english and I may have missed some details.http://www.justanswer.com/oldsmobile...html#re.v/181/

I have ripped into every cheap, chinsy connection placed in the door sill on the passenger side and under the passenger seat going so far as to actually remove the seat, but I did not find ANY corrosion on ANY of the connections. Not to mention, I was not able to find a light blue connection grouping of wires. I was able to find a tan one, but none of them is the wire from the window switch because that wire is about 12 gauge. The tan wire connection I found under the passenger seat was 3 tan wires all about in the 16 gauge range.

I can get the window to work on the passenger side by jumping connections in the switch, so my question to you is what else do I need to test? In my mind I have ruled out a bad switch and have narrowed it down to a broken connection somewhere. Is this a safe bet? If so, are there any other places where I need to check connections (especially for the light blue and tan wires for the passenger window from master window switch) in the body of the car? Are there any of these cheap connections behind the dash, glove box, or some other hard to reach place? Is it likely that the wires are frayed somewhere else such as in the door-to-body grommet? Is there a bad ground or fuse I should check? By the way I do believe I checked fuses way back when when this first happened and did not find anything. I want to solve this so bad. Please help!