L1th1um67

2002 Chevy Venture LS, 3.4l engine, FWD, 160,000 Miles.



Recently the power steering pump failed in my 2002 Venture. I replaced that a few days ago. It was starting up fine and I had no issues with electrical problems at this point. I installed the pump, got everything back together and now it won't start. My guess is that I knocked a wire loose somewhere. I have done a visual inspection and had others come over to look at the wires with me and we see nothing disconnected.

When I turn the key, the gauges go crazy, the radio comes on.... but nothing- no crank, no starting no nothing. The starter doesn't click- It doesn't do anything. The dash lights come on but the battery drains quickly. Everything keeps buzzing around on the dash and I've had to recharge my battery way too many times. I have it sitting outside with the negative removed to avoid charging it again.

I tested all my fuses, in both boxes and everything is fine. I cleaned my battery posts and cables up good with baking soda/water and a wire brush.

I looked online for a way to narrow down which wire I might have knocked loose and used the multimeter to test each fuse with the key out. The only ones showing any electrical activity were the PCM/crank fuse and the PCM/passkey fuse. I thought wow! I can finally figure out what's going on here! I was wrong... I am far from a mechanic, and I am not sexist, but I am a girl and cars are not my natural forte. I know enough to change a tire/do brakes/hub/replace the PS pump...other minor mechanical things to save myself money (poor single mom here!). But electrical issues... I am just lost. I don't even know how to read the wiring diagrams I have seen.

I have used two different batteries thinking maybe the problem is the battery, and neither have worked. I can't get it to an autozone or other kind of store to test the alternator/starter/battery. It's dead in my driveway.

I'm just looking for suggestions on what to try to get it to start up again. I have spent so much money fixing this van and it really ran beautifully up until the PS pump went out. After I replaced that, all hell broke loose.

It should definitely have spark, fuel and air. I had it running just previous to replacing the PS pump so I am guessing that all those things would still work.

Just to recap: I turn the key, the gauges go nuts and buzz all over the place. The starter does not engage, nothing cranks, just dead. As if it were a dead battery. The fuel pump does not come on. Nothing comes on except for dash lights. Then the battery discharges quickly after. I tested all fuses, they are fine. I tested each fuse for electrical activity with a multimeter and the two that have something going on with the key off are the PCM/crank fuse and the PCM/passkey fuse.

Thanks for reading. I tried to explain everything as clear as possible. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

sergeimoskva

HI !
Check in these areas shown in the picture.

chevy47390

Just to recap: I turn the key, the gauges go nuts and buzz all over the place. The starter does not engage,

Hello

When the relays vibrate, is that the power supply fails insufficient. Generally a bad connection on + battery or on earth .

check this by placing a voltmeter ( with needle ) on the battery first , then moving on the fuse box , and then to power .

A voltmeter to verify that the needle was 12.5 volts at rest, then when you turn the key , it should still have 12 volts to 10 volts and fall when the starter is active.

IT is not normal that the battery discharges quickly especially if the starter is not activated :
You changed the steering pump , very close to the alternator.
given the description of your fault, I'll disconnect the battery cable out of the alternator (behind the alternator ) must first be disconnected from the positive on the battery. Properly isolate with tape , cable was the alternator Then reconnect the battery. Retry
in fact it seems that one or the alternator diodes are died , if the battery discharges quickly soon as it is connected. this short - circuit makes it impossible to engine management. measuring the voltage on the battery will confirm ( or not ) the abnormality when the cable is disconnected from the alternator .

You can drive dozens of miles with a battery in perfect condition out with the cable from the alternator disconnected ( with the appearance of a DTC)

If you have a good battery to try it must be possible to verify that the alternator is boiling hot , putting his hand over , but better handling is disconnected the cable and try to start ( always checking tensions voltmeter if no good) .


I hope I was clear ,
keep us informed
sincerely