pkupman_77

Well, I'm having the dreaded window stuck down issue.....

I've pulled the Right Door Panel, and have power to the window motor (Brown or Dk Blue, depending on which way I activate the switch). I also have power to the back of the switch via the tan or Light Blue wires from the Drivers side door.

Forgive me, as it's been 4 days since I did this, and I can't remember which wire when having power made it go down (dk blue or brown at motor), but it seems the trouble is when it wants to go up, it has power in the one, but not ground in the other......

Long story short, how do I diagnose further? How do I prove it to be the passenger switch? 2 other things I thought to be weird: The brown wire, which according to the schematic I had was straight from the fuse, only had power when the switch was activated (forgot which way: up or down) and the two wires coming from the drivers side (Tan and light blue) had continuity to ground with some resistance (0.16)

I'm no expert with electrical and would appreciate any advise you can give. (Also, the wires running under the passenger floor all look crappy....which ones could be an issue here?)

Thanks!

Switch Doctor

Hello,

Does the window close from one switch and not the other (master/passenger)? If so it’s almost definitely the switch. When the switchboards in these become corroded or damaged they often only function in one direction.

Ryan

pkupman_77

Thank you for the response...No, the window will not go up from either switch.

U.Nanimous

My 2005 passenger window went down but not up...replaced passenger side switch from Switch Doctor ($23 free shipping) and now it works.


For diagnosis DON'T follow the thread that tells you remove a switch then see if the other one operates the window! For the drivers side window there is only 1 switch to control it, but the passenger side window has 2 switches and they are wired together to make it work (think staircase lights with a switch at both ends, simply removing a switch will OPEN the circuit regardless of the other switches position).


If the window goes one direction but not the other, it isn't the motor but there is a slight chance it could be something else mechanical (rusted regulator, worn tracks). Also, these switches are double throw meaning they make contact in both the on and off positions, so just because one seems to work and the other doesn't won't really tell you which switch is bad ("working" switch could have bad contact in the off position making the other switch appear bad).


A quick way to check (with just a small screwdriver and 2" of wire) if it is the passenger switch, and to still use the window while you wait for a switch, is to disconnect the switch and put in a couple of jumper wires as they are in the picture below (think I used 20 guage wire) and put a couple pieces of electrical tape over it. If the window works now the passenger switch is your problem, if it still doesn't work that doesn't mean that switch is good but you have another problem.


Picture ain't that great...red wires jumpered across the end contacts, that's brown to tan and light blue to dark blue or A to H and D to E.


And about the wires under the passenger floor, if they are not the same color as the wires going to the switch I can't say which ones but that could be it as well as the loom from the door to the body (lots of flexing eventually breaks the wires). Unfortunately if it isn't the passenger switch you will need a wiring diagram and a DMM.