P1345 Code, cam/crankshaft positioning sensor timing off.
 

So recently I've gotten this P1345 code and my brother-in-law told me just to change the sensor and that should be fine. But money isn't the most abundant and I barely have the $50 for a new sensor. I haven't moved the distributor or anything of the sort, so I was hoping if I could get a couple opinions from those of you who know this engine best. The engine is starting to run kinda choppy and I really want to just fix it up a bit.

It's the 5.7 Vortec 350 in a 1996 Z71. Thanks in advance.

typically, the 1345 code is either the cam sensor, the crank sensor, distributor is off, or timing chain jumped. unfortunately, it can cost a bit to figure out. first step would be to have a dealer read the cam/crank offset. this needs to be set to 0 degrees, + or - 2 degrees. you could end up spending money on sensors that don't need replacing, when it just needs a quick adjustment of distributor. now, a distributor drive gear worn out could cause this code to. generally, if the cam or crank sensor goes out, motor won't run. i'd have the cam offset, also known as cam retard, checked. go from there.

Yeah, my level of frustration couldn't be measured when I replaced the crank sensor and reset the code and it didn't turn on.

Then a few miles down the road it popped right back on and I almost lost it.

But I guess the best thing to do would be to take it to a dealership, right? The only thing I can't stand about that is that the last time I did, they charged me $50 just so they could tell me what was wrong with it on a day where they had no customers, it was ridiculous. Thanks for the advice though, I'll check it out the next time I get a decent amount of extra cash. Thanks.

Ypu sure no one moved the distributor? you didnt have the intake gaskets recently replaced or anything recently befor light came on?

Nope. Before the light came on I was just driving it around, it's my daily driver. I was in a small accident, but there was barely enough force to move my bumper. That wouldn't have anything to do with it, would it?

the crankshaft sensor is on the crankshaft wich the timing chain connects to the cam so if you have a stretched timing chain and thats throwin a code you probably need to change the timing chain and replace all the gaskets if you want it to run reaaallly good. I did that with my truck and it runs great, it has 240,000 on it.
how many miles are on yours?

I just hit 181,000 the other day. How much would something like that cost, assuming I can get it done myself with a buddy helping me? I never feel like paying professionals to do something I can do unless I need to. My buddy knows what to do in most cases.


Also, the other day I started running a P0307 (Cylinder 7 misfire). I just replaced the plugs and wires hoping that would do the trick while I just needed to tune it up anyway, but that didn't do it. Any help there would be appreciated too. Thanks!

a new timing set can range from 40 to 100 bucks whatever you want to get depending on the brand or performance set but isnt real hard to replace, i did it on my truck it wasnt real hard just time consuming, but if its never been replaced i think this might do it if youve done everything else

Man im having a similar problem on a 97 Chevrolet C3500 flatbed. My Truck was running fine, check engine light came on but truck still running fine no issues in performance. Two days later, truck ran fine first half of the day, killed it, went inside for bout 20 minutes came back out to leave & truck was hard to start, would rough idle for a few seconds & die. Ran OBD2 Scanner got P1345. Replaced camshaft sensor & crankshaft sensor, still no start, replaced fuel pump then realized it was the fuel pump relay...fixed the relay & truck started right up. Ran fine til half way thru the next day then suddenly just died while going down the fwy. So took cap off the distributor & saw it had spun the rotor off, so I put a new rotor on & it started up drove about 10 miles it Backfired (popped) real loud & died AGAIN. So, I bought another new rotor cap, & new plugs & wires, hell even went ahead & bought a new battery...changed those out, was able to finally get it to start up but was a rough start & wouldnt idle on its own, had to keep my foot on the gas petal to keep it from dying. Had it towed to where it sits now & hasnt started back up since I towed it from the fwy. Now, when Im trying to start it it's steadily popping & won't start at all. Anybody have any suggestions on what my next step should be?

New engine with 1345 code.
 

P1345
 

:(Having similar problem. Timing was +30. Pulled distributor up enough to dial back the rotor clockwise one tooth. Timing is still +26. Can believe that only changed 4 degrees. Thinking there must be more to it. I welcome any ideas. Thanks

Did you ever figure this problem out? I am having the same problem with my truck. Recently did lots of work on it myself including many sensors and a distributor and timing chain. I have had the distributor out multiple times trying to move it a tooth over back and forth and no matter what I do or how I turn it, it reads anywhere from -16 to -30 degrees. Does not make much sense but when I move it around it runs better in different spots making me think that somehow the computer is not reading the timing correctly which results in it trying to auto adjust and run terrible. In order for me to be able to run it I have to unplug the maf sensor because it wants to stall out with this much timing retard. I can watch the live data of the maf and it reads good as well as the map. If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Thanks

I had a similar problem on my motorhome P37 Chevy chassis with 7.4L. Ended up replacing the distributor. May have been able to reset it. Currently had a ICM failure advanced timing issue that burnt the cap. Distributor was off 2 teeth according to the mechanic but the distributor istelf still good.

All of these problems sound very familiar. I ended up replacing the distributor. However unless you have diagnostic equipment or the proper software for a laptop, you will not be able to set the timing. So your best bet might be to take it to local mechanic with proper diagnostic equipment.

Agreed! I didn't have a scanner that would read live data. Needs to have the cam retard at 0 +/-2 degrees.

I have the same issue. I cannot get the cam to synch up.

i got as low as -7 degrees with some farmer fudging of the hold down bolt, but it’s simply not far enough.

one tooth forward don’t start, one tooth back and it won’t start.

im leaning towards a PCM failure in the cam crank synching, but never saw this before on the vortec which does not have any distributor adjustments.

new chain and gears newer distributor, new sensors.

The cam setting is supposed to be +2 to -2 as far as I have read. I have a "rebuilt" ECM but am waiting for warmer weather to install it. Have you replaced the distributor? That is what I finally had to do to get things semi right. Best of luck.

I have actually reached out locally to see if any of my brothers have a running 350 Vortech I can use the distributor out of. This distributor in this was running when the owner that has it now brought it to me. It’s just been running like ****. He someone to change the timing chain And Gears I have verified it, I verified placement of the pointer while setting the distributor at Top dead center of compression. Something is causing this thing to ring off and it might be the placement of the reluctor wheel at the top of the distributor shaft. I have no references to go off of to measure whether this one’s in the correct spot or not but I imagine it is not , I’m gonna take one last stab at another distributor this afternoon hopefully .
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...5e129e586.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...4b29b1386.jpeg
this is a new distributor. If you look at the rotor it’s dead center of cap post for #1 plug. Can’t physically get closer to perfect than that.

That looks off to me. Mine is a 1998 and the flat on the distributor base is close to parallel with the back of the intake. It should be just a few degrees from parallel. At least on mine. My cam sensor is also located under the rotor. I got a new Delphi from Rock Auto for around $199. You can also get a rebuilt AC Delco for around the same.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...3fa4f4e40.jpeg
You can see for yourself on your distributor that is exactly where the number one rod comes down in for the rotor to connect with, and it is dead center of that rod at Top dead center of the compression stroke

If yours is in a different spot, kindly, lift your lid and show me :-)

Maybe this will help. This guy talks about what I am referencing in the video. Mine is in a motorhome that is stored for the winter so I cannot just "lift the lid", sorry.

That is a good video. Thank you very much when the new distributor arrives we’ll see how this thing behaves.

Solved
 

It was the new Chinese distributor that was off.

new Amazon next day fifty dollar distributor has cam retard dead on zero.

thanks for the input.