Service battery charger, Battery saver active
 

Guys,

Please help.

I have a 2015 silverado 1500 6.2L LTZ, 46 thousand miles. Been having crazy electrical issues. Randy Marion GMC and my mechanic tested battery/alternator/starter and everything is "fine". HAH....right..

I am getting a SERVICE BATTERY CHARGER and BATTERY SAVER ACTIVE message on my dash. My battery gauge is falling down to 9 (as far as it will go).

All dash lights and heat went out on me, then come back on (Happened once). Same with heated seats. Had to jump start it twice in 5 days. After a jump start I am good for a few days and battery gauge is at half way or in between 11-14, a matter of hours before it starts falling.

I have seen people talk about alternator, alternator regulator, fuse from alternator to battery, mega fuse and a bad negative battery cable....Randy Marion GMC wont look at fuses because it takes to long, they rely on the diagnostics.

Does anyone know a fix for this? Super frustrating, don't want to drive it anywhere.

THANK YOU ALL!!!

I'd suspect a weak battery and/or alternator. I've had batteries test okay one week and then test bad a few days later. With all the voltage demands of a battery in today's vehicles it doesn't take much of a voltage drop for the system to have crazy electrical issues including false fault codes.

I would suggest having Auto Zone or Advance Auto test the battery and alternator. It's a free service. The test should show voltage and cranking amps. If you have a multi-meter, you can check the battery voltage. A fully charged battery should have 12.6 volts at rest (engine not running). With the engine running the voltage should show 13.8-14.4 volts. Anything less than 13.8 volts indicates a possible charging issue.

I've usually had batteries last 5+ years before it began to get weak (not hold a charge), but depending on where you are located batteries can fail after only 3 years. Especially in very hot climates such as the southwest (AZ and NM). Believe it or not it's the heat of the summer that usually kills batteries. The symptoms don't show up until winter when the extra cold cranking amps are needed.

leave it with them for a few days so the fault occurs for them. You can't fix an intermittent problem until the problem is active. if it was a blown fuse...the problem would be active all the time.
Most common issues are bad batteries, intelligent battery sensors. when the battery sensor see the battery state of health drop to low...the vehicle will power shed high draw accessories...heated seats, defrost grids. Do you have any aftermarket accessories wired into the battery posts or anything that could cause a draw?