2012 Captiva electrical issues
#181
Thanks for your updates!
This was early on in the process. Please see my updates that came later. For this issues... I used my CarMax warranty to pay for the fix (bcm replacement etc.)
Responses from others also show Chevy is not footing the bill for any of these fixes. Footing the bill would insinuate that there is a problem in the first place. That's why I tracked down the guy that provided the resolution for my problem.
Hope this helps.
Shuvl
Responses from others also show Chevy is not footing the bill for any of these fixes. Footing the bill would insinuate that there is a problem in the first place. That's why I tracked down the guy that provided the resolution for my problem.
Hope this helps.
Shuvl
#182
I'm just wondering if the replacement of the battery sensor you describe has cured your problems since your post quoted above? At that time you said you'd travelled over 200 miles. I've been posting about my similar experiences that seem to have been resolved by jiggling or disconnecting the battery sensor.
#183
I need to do this for my daughters 2012, just got stranded today. Unfortunately she is in Colorado and I am in Missouri. Can you tell me how long the cable needs to be and what connectors did you use on each end please? I am hoping to make up the cable and mail it to her so she can have it installed for a reasonable price. Thanks in advance, she has to use her car for work and I am really hoping this will resolve her issues along with adding the additional ground cable suggested further down this thread.
#184
I need to do this for my daughters 2012, just got stranded today. Unfortunately she is in Colorado and I am in Missouri. Can you tell me how long the cable needs to be and what connectors did you use on each end please? I am hoping to make up the cable and mail it to her so she can have it installed for a reasonable price. Thanks in advance, she has to use her car for work and I am really hoping this will resolve her issues along with adding the additional ground cable suggested further down this thread.
Note: If you are planning to run a third cable from the alternator (+) over to the battery (+) positive, it is best to use a in line fuse setup that matches your alternator voltage. General rule of thumb there is the fuse needs to be placed within one (1) foot of the battery. This helps prevent the cable from arching and causing a fire in the event you are in a collision. This step wasn't necessary for my fix.
I am traveling this week and will get you the lengths as soon as I return.
Hope this helps to fix your issues. It has worked for me.
Shuvl
#186
Electrical power management system sensor
Hi guys, my father in law has a captiva from 2012, he got a new battery not so long ago because the car wouldn't start otherwise. Today it was "flat" again.
I read that someone had disconnected the electrical power management system and I wonder if the sensor is located on the negative cable or the positive cable. I believe it's the negative cable (according to The bulletin below) but can someone clarify? Otherwise i Will notice when i'm at the car.
I will disconnect the sensor asap because that usually is a weak point that causes some of these issues. When the sensor is disconnected the alternator will produce a constant current of around 14.3-14.4v instead of "peak" the current around 15v and then "drain" the battery until it needs to be charged again. This is the standard behaviour of the systems i have seen this far and should be the same here. For comparison ford's system is called "smart charge" and is connected to The negative cable, bmw uses the "i.b.s"(intelligent battery sensor) which was connected to the positive on the older 5 series i had.
The point is that i'd rather have a system that is constantly charging when the engine is running, and that won't let the starter run because there's a system that believes the battery is drained, even though it is in good condition.
Google this service bulletin btw. Sb-10052499-4154
I read that someone had disconnected the electrical power management system and I wonder if the sensor is located on the negative cable or the positive cable. I believe it's the negative cable (according to The bulletin below) but can someone clarify? Otherwise i Will notice when i'm at the car.
I will disconnect the sensor asap because that usually is a weak point that causes some of these issues. When the sensor is disconnected the alternator will produce a constant current of around 14.3-14.4v instead of "peak" the current around 15v and then "drain" the battery until it needs to be charged again. This is the standard behaviour of the systems i have seen this far and should be the same here. For comparison ford's system is called "smart charge" and is connected to The negative cable, bmw uses the "i.b.s"(intelligent battery sensor) which was connected to the positive on the older 5 series i had.
The point is that i'd rather have a system that is constantly charging when the engine is running, and that won't let the starter run because there's a system that believes the battery is drained, even though it is in good condition.
Google this service bulletin btw. Sb-10052499-4154
Last edited by Thimpz; December 14th, 2018 at 2:44 PM.
#187
Guys, who knows where you can buy such a part for a car ? - https://tinyurl.com/yawtpo27
I would be grateful for advice.
I would be grateful for advice.
Last edited by Roman Suslo; December 22nd, 2018 at 11:09 AM.
#188
Do you think, that amazon is the best place? I think there are better places to buy car spare parts in internet or even in shop.
#189
I have a 2012 Chevy captiva that I bought used 8 months ago. Since I've had it I've had stalling issues which ended up being solenois. Now that problem stopped I've got the not starting issue. Randomly the car won't start and the key gets locked in the ignition. Acts like a dead battery except you pop the hood and literally touch either side of the battery terminal with a wrench (not tightening anything just touching) and the car starts right up... I love my car but this is getting annoying, anyone have an actual fix for it?
#190
I have a 2012 Chevy captiva that I bought used 8 months ago. Since I've had it I've had stalling issues which ended up being solenois. Now that problem stopped I've got the not starting issue. Randomly the car won't start and the key gets locked in the ignition. Acts like a dead battery except you pop the hood and literally touch either side of the battery terminal with a wrench (not tightening anything just touching) and the car starts right up... I love my car but this is getting annoying, anyone have an actual fix for it?
Key stuck in ignition, and won't start is a real symptom that you are not getting any power to the ignition switch. I would say your problem could be anywhere between the battery (including the battery) all the way to the ignition switch.
Btw, I would create a new thread for your issue, so we don't hijack the thread.