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2012 Chevy Capriva electrical issues
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The forums here say low voltage issues I've had the battery checked and was told it was fine. I don't know the battery's age so I'm going to replace that to be safe. It's also said could be issues with the battery cables! Chevy can you please offer some assistance for me so I can get this resolved?? I love the car just need things to work right. Thank you Bob Bergeron |
2012 Captiva electrical issue
My Captiva’s alternator went out shortly after I bought it. We replaced it and the battery. Then it started with the electric problems. Driving or idling the electric panels would go out. Loss of radio, then it would cycle to black then just clock and then back on. All in 3 seconds. Would loose odometer info panel too. Sometimes if the blinker was on that would go too. If cruise on sometimes that too. Sometimes none of that but I’d get the service traction control light and then the glitch of electrical. It has never happened when volts are above 13.5 always below and usually when in the 12 range.
After a ton of attempts on extended warranty it was fixed. Well 6 years later the alternator failed and I replaced. All the same electric glitches now back. Chevy dealer says they can’t replicate and see no codes causing concern. 24 hours after it’s happening enough I can get my kid to capture it on video. They have no solutions and can’t help if it won’t replicate. Help. I tried the past mechanic but records were too old and not available. |
I bought 2013 sport captiva few days ago from mechanic shop. The price was fair for its good condition and the mechanic was honest. He said it had major repairs. He couldn't understand the electric problem but the car drives OK. It's very appearance the fuse box was replaced before.
After long search I ended up here then read (shuvl) post. I bought gauge 4 wires from Walmart like $25, 16 and 26 inch long. Hooked the 16 inch to the battery and the 26 to the alternater mount. Both hooked to the body at the suspension bolts. It was immediate different! The engine got quite and more stable. The voltage won't drop critically any more. However, it kept rising to 15 and above which cause it to flicker. I knew there is service bulletin from chevy regarding the current sensor so I check it. Just moved it around trying to read the part number, which was unreadable, the voltage will no longer rise to critical level. I order new sensor for $20 and plan to change it when it arrives. The whole process won't take an hour. To access the alternater, the air tube need to be removed for easy access. I hope this fix it for good. Shame on chevy for such bad design. |
2013 Captiva
Originally Posted by shuvl
(Post 291321)
Wanted to follow-up on my earlier post…..
A few days after my last post I received a frantic call from my wife who had again been left stranded. Taking the advice of my father-in-law, I called a different Chevy dealership here in Atlanta. My father-in-law had been using them for years to service his work fleet with good success. The service writer immediately gave me the GM service phone # to call for a wrecker. A wrecker was there within the hour. Two hours later I received an e-mail from the service writer confirming receipt of the vehicle. They too were challenged in recreating the issues. So, I told them to take it for a long ride. They gave the keys to one of their mechanics and told him to hit the road. About 20 mins later the problems returned. Radio turned off and on then the dash error lights started flashing. A few days later we were called to come pick up the Captiva. They had replaced the Body Control Unit (BCM). All was good…. Well sort of… Within days the problems returned. So, back to the dealership we went. Only this time it would be different.... The service writer/dealership offered us a loaner to drive. A service ticket was opened up with the GM engineering team. With the help of GM engineering, the service techs were able to diagnose the problem as being low voltage in both positive and negative battery cables. The complete assembly was replaced. Once the new cables were installed the service writer asked if they could drive it over the weekend to monitor it further. Absolutely, we said. The following Monday we were asked if they could keep the car for a few more days. A GM district manager was coming in to see the car and to review the case. Absolutely x 2, we said. When all was said and done…. It’s been over two month’s since we picked up my wife’s Captiva. It has since been running like a top. Not one “Bleep” or flashing error dash light. We even took the car on a 1500 mile trip over the Thanksgiving holiday and experienced no issues. Our experience with this new (to us) dealership was nothing less than fabulous. Our service writers, Danon and Vladimir were top notch! They understood our frustration. Their communication of the issues and their plan to resolve them were spot on. When / if my Chevy Tahoe does finally decide to give it up (300k+ miles and counting), I will be coming back to these guys for my next new Tahoe.
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Once the BCM goes bad due to faulty grounding, adding the grounding upgrade will most likely not fix your issues. The damage will have already been done. In my case, I added the new grounding immediately after the replacement of my second BCM.
The mechanic I was working with said you can find a used BCM at a considerable cost savings. But, here too you risk that used BCM being defective. It's worth the try to many. Also, still not issues as of 8/10/2022. Hope this helps! |
Originally Posted by shuvl
(Post 481429)
Once the BCM goes bad due to faulty grounding, adding the grounding upgrade will most likely not fix your issues. The damage will have already been done. In my case, I added the new grounding immediately after the replacement of my second BCM.
The mechanic I was working with said you can find a used BCM at a considerable cost savings. But, here too you risk that used BCM being defective. It's worth the try to many. Also, still not issues as of 8/10/2022. Hope this helps! Agree, I was worry and damage may happen. The voltage peak / drop issue resolved after both fixes were completed (new current sensor and more grounding wires). My current concern is either TCM or CAN got busted before the repair was completed. When I use scan tool, it cannot connect with TCM. The transmission works ok shifting and speeding, but I also get U2106 code. it looks like the different units having communication issues. I may send the car for therapist perhaps this resolve the communication 😁 |
Update.... still no issues as of 3/1/2024.
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