2003 Cavalier died and won't start
 

My 2003 Chevy Cavalier has the 2.2L engine and an automatic transmission. This car has 161,000 miles on it. The fuel filter was changed 23,000 miles ago with the full service automatic transmission fluid/filter change at the local chevy dealership. Fuel in the gas tank is over half full.

I was driving at 30 miles an hour and the car just died. I coasted into a parking lot and tried starting the car, but it would not start. The car does turn over. All fluids under the hood are full. The car did not overheat.

I think the car is not getting gas, but this is my best guess at this point. What should I check?

I have owned two Cavaliers. I had a 1997 Cavalier which I drove to 227,000 miles and sold it still running great with everything working perfectly on it. My 2003 has never had a problem until last night.

I checked all the fuses and they were good. I removed the radio fuse so the chime stayed off when you try to start the car and then I could hear if the fuel pump was on when turning on the key without starting the car. I could not hear it. I towed the car to auto zone and had them check to see if the car had any check engine codes and there was only one which was the car was running lean. I checked the fuel pressure at auto zone with their fuel pressure checker and it was zero.

I bought the AirTex fuel pump at auto zone for $250.00 and a new fuel filter(all the electrical connectors and fittings were the exact same on this new AirTex fuel pump just like the old original stock fuel pump on my car which was good news or I would have returned it) . Removing the fuel tank out of this Cavalier was incredibly hard. I had the repair manual for this Cavalier and the best advice I can give to anyone doing this job on a 2003 Cavalier is you have to drill out and remove the two rivets holding the heat shield in place toward the rear of the car(one is on one of the straps holding the fuel tank in place) , take off the two straps holding the gas tank in place, remove all hoses and electrical connections going to the fuel tank, take off the strap holding the muffler in place so it can move out of the way a little. Once this is all done the tank is still incredibly hard to get out still. You have to move the fuel tank strap on the passenger side completely out of the way and turn it so it is on the side of the fuel tank. Bending the heat shield out of the way helps. The fuel tank slid out once I could push the tank to the passengers side and toward the front of the car so the tank would clear the rear suspension bar (once it clears that bar you will be able to push the tank down towards the ground and it will slide out) that runs between both rear wheels.

My old fuel pump was bad. I tested the old one and the new one once I pulled the old one out of the fuel tank. I just plugged each pump into the connector under the car before installing the new pump back in to make sure it worked. The old one did not work, the new one turned on once the key was turned on. I installed everything back on the car and now it runs like new again.

This is a very hard repair. Best of luck to anyone doing this repair. I probably saved $400.00 doing it myself.

Replacing 2003 Cavalier Fuel Pump
 

I just finished replacing the fuel pump in my cavalier with approx 82,000 miles on the vehicle..in fact i had to do it Twice! Got an AC Delco #MU1374 from advance auto parts (around $265 with 15% disc). The pump had a strange harmonic whine..not a steady sound..The pump was putting out 60psi at the fuel rail, however i opted to exchange it for another pump which advance did w/o problem. Got a Delphi pump instead..has internal strainer-nice. Put it in yesterday, tested 60-65 psi at rail..good output. However it has a high pitched whine..but a steady pitch..i can live with that..Seems the newer pumps are just plain noisy- EVEN THE FACTORY DELCO Ones so don't be too surprised. This was quite a job..took 5+ hrs the first round but only 1 1/2 hrs on second change out. The information from poster above on removing the heat shield rivets was VERY HELPFUL- THANKS! 2 dealers i called said around 1.75-2.5 hrs labor..$200-$350 for labor alone..parts $399 so doing it yourself saves a bit..Cheers

Diagnosis of Fuel Pump Problem on Cavalier
 

Here is how i went about troubleshooting the problem. First;, the car died in the road and had to be Towed home..Cost $75..car would crank but wouldn't start. Also had check engine light on. Hooked up scanner and found MIL code P0171..fuel system too lean bank1. Checked various forums on this fault code: faulty sensor, faulty fuel pump/relay, clogged injectors, yada yada.

Step1: Check for fuel in tank...had just put $20 gas in before car died.

Step2: Check all fuses in drivers side fuse compartment.all ok

Step3: Check fuel pump relay under hood(in small black rectangular box); when key is in "on" position relay should "click". Checked ok

Step4: Get under car near tank; have someone turn key to "on" and listen for whirring sound of pump coming up and priming system..about 3-4 seconds...No sound observed.

Step5: Put fuel pressure test guage on schrader valve at fuel rail...turn key to "on" position..Zero Psi at rail observed..Should be between 50-65 psi.

Note: the relay could still have corroded contacts and sound ok..but isn't giving proper voltage to the pump..testing the relay is somewhat of a pain..a new one is $12...I changed it out anyway before getting a new pump. The pump still had Zero psi after replacing the relay.

Step6: With no fuel pressure at the rail, and all electrical paths to the pump in working order...AS Well as numerous posts about the 2001-2003 cavaliers having pump problems...We needa new pump!!

Always check the least expensive items First..Fuses,relays, ground wires, etc...Seldom is it that easy...but you never know.

Other Mention: I omitted the Fuel Filter check entirely-Why? If The pump is NOT Running period(no sound when key is "on") the filter is not an issue. IF However the pump was running and the pressure test at the rail was Lower than normal or zero then we would suspect a blocked/obstructed filter possibly. When you put a NEW PUMP IN, ALWAYS put a NEW Fuel Filter as well..most pump warranties will be void if you don't!!

Hope this information helps...Always do your homework..check forums,etc.
No need to reinvent the wheel..

Hi guys, newbie here.
Got a 02 2.2 ecotech with similar issues. Car died and won't start. Did all the fuel related stuff and they checked out fine. Getting great pressure at fuel rail. Repalced coil pack and still won't start. Checked timing chain to see if that was bad. It was in great shape. Have crank position sensor to put in but can't find the crazy thing. I know it's gotta be at or near crank (duh!!!). Any clues? Engine spins great just no attempt at starting at all. Thanks. Be blessed.

Welcome to the forum.:) If it actually says "ECOTEC" on the ignition coil housing, the CKP sensor is located on the left rear of the engine (or driver side of the engine compartment), below and slightly ahead of the oil filter housing. You'll need to disconnect the battery and remove the starter, first.

Thanks EinST!!!! Much props. I was afraid that was it I saw there, but I thought "there's no way they'd stick it behind the starter!?!?!?". Will give update tomorrow, hopefully good one.

Hey EinST, Is there only 3 bolts from the bottom on the starter? I got the 2 vertical ones. Then got a 3rd one that runs horizontal right at the solenoid. But starter still not budging. Is there one on the top of starter? Thanks

New update. Replaced Crank sensor. Still no start. At the end of rope. Ready to give in to pro. The only piece that I have not replaced is the coil pack ignition controller. The little square thing on top of coil pack. Any more ideas?

Thanks for the update. If you took it it for service, I hope it was something minor. If you're still working on it yourself, you may want to post more details, like what you see in the instrument cluster as you turn the key and what exactly you've checked/diagnosed/measured.

Sorry for lack of details. Didn't take it for service yet. Estimates way to high. As far as instrument cluster, no lights staying on after initial start sequence. Haven't really measured anything so to speak. Not really sure what to measure. Only thing I haven't replaced is the ICM. Waiting to get paid this Friday to replace it. Engine turns and is getting plenty of fuel. I'm thinking it's gotta be ignition, maybe.

Is the MIL (Check Engine Light, if you will) on in the I/P cluster? You say it "is getting plenty of fuel" but without the MIL on, the PCM may not be working right. You may want to go over the fuses labeled PCM something.

Sorry about leaving that out. Check engine light is not on. I did put a scanner on it last week and there were no codes coming up. Will check PCM fuses. Will try and give update tomorrow. Thanks.

Checked all fuses in dash and out on firewall and only 1 fuse was bad. It was the cig lighter fuse. Other than that no other fuses were bad. I did find a crank relay under the hood. Not sure if it is bad. Could that relay be the issue? I would think that if that were the case it would not even spin the engine. Maybe I'm wrong. Anymore ideas? Leaning towards the ICM now.

The CRANK relay is there to supply enough current to the starter solenoid. The MIL should be on with key on. Check the voltage at the IGN MDL fuse (fuse in place, through the probe holes on the fuse itself) with key in START. You may have a leg gone bad on the ignition switch.

Ok. Will try that tomorrow. Work nights. Have to do all this in the mornings. You talking about the IGN fuse in dash? Or is the one on fender well? Thnx.

That'd be the the IGN MDL fuse (for the ignition module) in the I/P fuse block (dash, if you will).

Checked the IGN MDL fuse. It was good. It was a 20a. What kinda voltage should I be getting at IGN MDL fuse? May go ahead and order the coil pack control module monday. Still recovering from santa claus.

It should be whatever the battery is putting out, 12V and change. Be sure to measure it with key in START.

If it is a leg on the switch would it still let the engine turn over? I'm not meaning to sound ungrateful, I am very much so, just thinking out loud I guess.

Just checked IGN MGL fuse and it was pulling like 13,14 in start position. I'm about ready to dynamite this thing

It wouldn't crank only if the leg that supplies the starting circuit is bad. The thing I don't understand is why your MIL isn't lit with key on (I don't know if you said otherwise). That could indicate something wrong with the PCM. Anyway, I'm out of ideas on something I can't see for myself. I hope a new ignition control module works out for you.

I forgot to tell you, the MIL finally came on this time when I went to check the IGN fuse. So can I check the code and it should shed some light on it? Sorry forgetting to say something about the MIL. This was the first time it has come on

The MIL in this case may or may not be associated with a trouble code. I think of it as a quick check to make sure the PCM is alive and can command the I/P cluster to turn on the indicator.

Would I get the 13-14 volts if a leg of the switch was bad? Found a good deal for a IGN module for $50 thru rockauto. At least if that doesn't fix it they'll let u return electrical items

I don't know about "13-14 volts" but I'll assume you have a batter charger hooked up. If so, that's acceptable, i.e., the ignition switch is probably not faulty. Otherwise, I won't be able to trust the measurement.

The ignition switch powers at least three different circuits depending on the key in ACC/RUN, RUN by itself, and RUN/START. Thus, all three power circuits should be live with key on. By checking the IGN MGL fuse, I was just wondering if there was something funny going on in the most important leg.

Should be able to put the module in Tuesday/Wednesday. Will let u know if that works. Thnx for all the help

Well good news and bad news.
Bad news is new IGN module did not fix issue.
Good news is I am done with working on it.
I give up. Taking it to somebody else and let them figure it out. Thanks for all the help though.

Sorry to hear it.:( Hope it's going to be something minor that you're going to kick yourself over. Be sure to let the service writer know what exactly has been going on.

98 Cavalier won't start
 

It died on my daughter while she was driving, it would try to start, but make a horrible clicking sound, so we took the starter off and had it checked, It passed. Took the alternator off, passed as well. Now the car won't make any sound or turn over at all. I can hear the buzz of the fuel pump but I cannot get it to do anything now. I can't really afford to take it to a mechanic...did I mess something up taking off the starter?

Cavalier Issues with starting
 

Can you tell me what it ended up being? Having the same issues and don't have the money to take it in.