littlecars

I am biulding a Toyota pickup with a 4.3 v6 and am having trouble with the wireing. I was refered to this site by the person I bought the motor from. He is going a ls1 swap into his s-10. I hope you guys can help.

Hears what I have:
1998 4.3l V6, SPI. 100% stock. Complete from the air cleaner to the exhaust manifold, but with non of the emisions that arnt bolted to the motor.
matching 4l60e with VSS, with toyota 23 spline output shaft.
toyota 23 spline transfere case with 4.7 gears.
I live in a spot where emissions are not checked.

I plan on useing the stock wiring harness, ecu and possibly fuse box. I am trying to biuld a “stand alone” system for it. I would like to avoid having the ECU reflashed. But If I have to have it reflashed I would like to take full advantage of it and remove everthing I don’t need. What extra stuff should I consider removing?

The ecu has 4 plugs, 3 go to the motor/tranny and one goes to the cab. the 3 to the motor/tranny are pretty simple. for the most part they dont need to be modified.

I am having troule finding out what I need to hook up where on the cab side. is there anyone out there that can help? Has anyone else done this?

When it is all done I want it to work like it should. I want the tranny to lock up when it should and unlock automatically. I want the computer to shift when it should. I want the motor to go to high idle when it is cold and work as it should. I also prefer to wire it myself. I dont want to pay someone big money for a harness when I already have one,

I have the pinout of the plug that goes to the cab:

1. fuel pump relay ( I plan on turning my fuel pump on with a switch so I don’t think I need this)
2.
3. vss output( I think this is for the CC)
4. vss output( for the chevy speedometer, which I am not using)
5. MIL control ( I think I hook this to the toyota check engion light)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10. brake signal(I think this is for the CC or maybe the tranny lockup, do I hook this up so it is powered then I hit the breaks?)
11. serrial data( I think this is for the OBD2 scanner)
12.
13. Ignition+ voltage
14. serial data( also for the OBD2)
15.
16. EGR valve control( I don’t know if I want to remove the EGR valve?)
17. Ignition+ voltage
18. Ignition+ voltage
19. 4wd wheel lock input( the motor tranny was from a 2wd and I am putting it in a 4wd. Do I need this?)
20. EGR vavle low
21.
22. CPP switch signal( what is CPP)
23. 4wd low signal
24. Cruise engaged signal.

I am not using the cruise control.
How do you wire up the "plug-in" for the obd2 scanner? I traced the wires and it looks like it talks to a bunch of stuff I am not using. Or do I even need this? when I have a problem, I can troubleshoot it without a scanner in If have to.

Also how will the alternater work with the stock wiring harness? it looks pretty simple, just hook up the wiring harness and the big wire goes to the battery+.

Can I use the stock chevy fuse block for powering everything?

Will I have any problems with the VATS If I just snip off the wires and throw the box away? I think the VATS just makes the ecu not power up the fuel pump? I plan on powering it up another way, so If this is all it does will it be a problem? Will it affect the spark? Timing? Or just the fuel pump?

Thanks
Brent

littlecars

I think I have came to the conclusion that I am having the ECU reflashed, to get rid of the VATS, possible the 3rd O2 sencer(the one past the cat) and maybe the EGR stuff. If I flash out the extras I think I can do it without all the extra wiring.
Has anyone else flashed out the VATS, the 3rd O2 senser or the EGR?

littlecars

Thanks I really apprciate it, I need the help.