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My new toy. 454 casting 4015445. Insight please!

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Old June 1st, 2017, 12:26 PM
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Default My new toy. 454 casting 4015445. Insight please!

Hey everyone! This is my first post here and I've beentrying to find an active forum to get some feedback. I haven't had much luckthus far. Hopefully that will change here.

So I scored the core for my next project. It's a 454 out of a 1988 South Wind 32' RV. The casting on the block (driver side top by trans bolts) is 4015445. I've Googled this casting and I only see 14015445, so I'm assuming either the first "1" is covered in grease/dirt or it's just not there. I'm at work and just decided to check up on the casting so I asked my wife to send me a pic, and that's what I could make out from the pic I received.

From what I found on my Google searches it seems that this thing should be a 4 bolt main. I also saw that there's the potential that it might have a forged crank from the factory. I know that factory forged cranks are not as quality as a 4340 aftermarket unit, but if it is forged I might hold off on the 4.250 crank for a bit and run with what it has.
My main curiosities are:

1. How much HP will a factory 454 block hold before you're on the edge of compromising the block and possibly adding a scenic picture window in the side of it? (FYI, I don't plan on spinning it past 7500).

2. If it does have a factory forged crank, how much power will those safely handle?

3. On a BBC (the majority of my engines have been SBC and others that I won't mention), do people do splayed mains like on a SBC? I figured I'm out on that either way if this really is a 4 bolt main because (atleast on SBC) you need to start with a 2 bolt block to go splayed 4 bolt. I'm guessing if it's a 4 bolt I can just use ARP studs and that'll alleviate any main cap walk at my desired power level, but I'm here to get info because IDON'T KNOW EVERYTHING, lol.

My power goal for this build will be somewhere between 800-1000 fwhp. My plan was to do this on somewhat of a budget. I say somewhat because I realize that there's no such thing as truly cheap, reliable power. Here's the parts list I have in mind:

-BBC Rectangular port aluminum heads (320 or 360 cc runners)w/ SS undercut/back-cut valves and bronze guides, springs for a solid roller.I'll do some minor porting work to smooth the runners and chambers, but nothing too radical where I might run the risk of getting into a water jacket. I have an ultrasonic tester and trust me, it gets used a lot when I port/polish. I might upgrade to Inconel and Titanium valves down the road topped with lashcaps, but those certainly aren't budget minded. I know most will say to use a hydraulic roller but in no way will this be a daily driver, and if I decided to take it on a long haul, I have no problem popping the valve covers when I stop for the day and checking/adjusting the lash... that only takes about 10 minutes.

-Some single plane intake, I haven't decided on a specific one yet.

-Roller cam with somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.650 lift.

-Roller rockers, I believe the correct ratio is 1.7 (both on the pivot and tip).

-Forged H-beams or I-beams.

-Forged pistons (whatever dome will get me to 10.5-11:1static CR).

-Forged crank.

-ARP hardware throughout (bolts for rods, studs for heads and mains).

Well, hopefully that's enough to get a thread started and get some good feedback. Any replies are much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Last edited by NickPohlAandP; June 1st, 2017 at 12:33 PM.




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