96' Express 1500 - Upper Bushings -Front Brakes & Rotor removal?
August 21st, 2013, 5:08 PM
#1
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96' Express 1500 - Upper Bushings -Front Brakes & Rotor removal?
Just got myself a hightop 96' van for work. Needs some work done..first thing is the inside of the tires are worn to **** and they're only 2 years old.
Looks like the upper-arm bushings are shot - how hard would these be to replace at home? Any videos or write ups?
Next..a bit more easy to do...the front brakes are pretty worn. Guys a Meineke said they should have "full metallic" pads...they also said the PSI on my tires was 44 psi and should be at 35...the tires are rated for 50 psi...so i took their suggestion with a grain of salt....figured i'd run it by you all.
Lastly, the rotors need to be turned, how difficult are these to pull off?
Thats it for now, i'm sure i'll be back for more later lol...thanks all for the help.
Looks like the upper-arm bushings are shot - how hard would these be to replace at home? Any videos or write ups?
Next..a bit more easy to do...the front brakes are pretty worn. Guys a Meineke said they should have "full metallic" pads...they also said the PSI on my tires was 44 psi and should be at 35...the tires are rated for 50 psi...so i took their suggestion with a grain of salt....figured i'd run it by you all.
Lastly, the rotors need to be turned, how difficult are these to pull off?
Thats it for now, i'm sure i'll be back for more later lol...thanks all for the help.
August 21st, 2013, 7:53 PM
#2
Control arm bushings are compressed by a huge coil spring. Dangerous to try if you don't have the tools. Get it done at a shop.
(have your upper and lower ball joints checked/changed at the same time.)
Front brakes are easy, but double check the floating pins on the calipers. Make sure they are clean and lubed so the caliper floates evenly. Full metalic are not always the best. I use semi metalic and they last fine.
Your tire pressure is mandated by the sticker on the side of the door jamb. That is the pressure you run.
I have a 2500 and it is 50 psi front 80 psi rear, 10 ply lt load range e. Don't skimp on the tires or the correct pressure.
Lastly, the rotors are a single unit with the hub. You have to pull the centre castle nut and remove the hub and rotor at the same time. You could do this and take them to a shop, but repack the bearings before putting the hub back on.
(have your upper and lower ball joints checked/changed at the same time.)
Front brakes are easy, but double check the floating pins on the calipers. Make sure they are clean and lubed so the caliper floates evenly. Full metalic are not always the best. I use semi metalic and they last fine.
Your tire pressure is mandated by the sticker on the side of the door jamb. That is the pressure you run.
I have a 2500 and it is 50 psi front 80 psi rear, 10 ply lt load range e. Don't skimp on the tires or the correct pressure.
Lastly, the rotors are a single unit with the hub. You have to pull the centre castle nut and remove the hub and rotor at the same time. You could do this and take them to a shop, but repack the bearings before putting the hub back on.
August 21st, 2013, 10:32 PM
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Control arm bushings are compressed by a huge coil spring. Dangerous to try if you don't have the tools. Get it done at a shop.
(have your upper and lower ball joints checked/changed at the same time.)
Front brakes are easy, but double check the floating pins on the calipers. Make sure they are clean and lubed so the caliper floates evenly. Full metalic are not always the best. I use semi metalic and they last fine.
Your tire pressure is mandated by the sticker on the side of the door jamb. That is the pressure you run.
I have a 2500 and it is 50 psi front 80 psi rear, 10 ply lt load range e. Don't skimp on the tires or the correct pressure.
Lastly, the rotors are a single unit with the hub. You have to pull the centre castle nut and remove the hub and rotor at the same time. You could do this and take them to a shop, but repack the bearings before putting the hub back on.
(have your upper and lower ball joints checked/changed at the same time.)
Front brakes are easy, but double check the floating pins on the calipers. Make sure they are clean and lubed so the caliper floates evenly. Full metalic are not always the best. I use semi metalic and they last fine.
Your tire pressure is mandated by the sticker on the side of the door jamb. That is the pressure you run.
I have a 2500 and it is 50 psi front 80 psi rear, 10 ply lt load range e. Don't skimp on the tires or the correct pressure.
Lastly, the rotors are a single unit with the hub. You have to pull the centre castle nut and remove the hub and rotor at the same time. You could do this and take them to a shop, but repack the bearings before putting the hub back on.
August 22nd, 2013, 9:29 AM
#4
Then you have prob got passenger tires on your van. You should have truck tires. The sticker should say the tire size. Its prob LT 225 75 16 load range E. I had passenger tires for years on an old van I had.....but the sidewalls will be squishy, plus hauling cargo with them is not recommended. Also, will your insurance be voided if you crack up on the freeway one day?
August 22nd, 2013, 11:37 PM
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Then you have prob got passenger tires on your van. You should have truck tires. The sticker should say the tire size. Its prob LT 225 75 16 load range E. I had passenger tires for years on an old van I had.....but the sidewalls will be squishy, plus hauling cargo with them is not recommended. Also, will your insurance be voided if you crack up on the freeway one day?
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