nanderson88

Hey Everyone,

So.. Im at a stand still.

I have a 2000 Chevy Express 1500 I purchased on Sunday, when I purchased it none of the power windows worked (The guy thought it was the master switch).

When I got home I popped open the fuse box and replaced the blown fuse and VIOLA! They worked... well, the passenger side worked.

The Drivers side however was slow to go down, when going up, it would die after moving less than 1/4 of an inch. So, doing my part, I took and looked at the Master switch connectors, cleaned and then decided to replace them. Tried again, same thing.

Ok, So multi Meter time! (Blue and Brown out from Switch) on activation 12.5v, okay, well not low voltage or intermittent voltage (Possibly due to bad contact points in the switch)

On to the motor, tear the door apart, grab the motor removed from door, plug things back in and hit switch. Motor moves but seems slow or weak. So, I replaced the motor with a new one. Put things back together, same thing.

At this point, I am getting frustrated and out of spite, threw $100 at a master switch, plug it in same damn thing.

Next, I grab a freshly charged battery, create some jumpers and hot wire the leads going to the window motor... same damn thing.

So, here is what I know

New Master Switch
New Motor
By passed internal wiring (12v to leads)
Tested internal wiring on Switch activation (12.5v)

All of them have produced the same thing, I do not know what else this could be...

With a new motor in and 12v direct to those leads it should have zipped right up.

Now, I am leaning towards a mechanical issue with the regulator or track, but. When I had the motor out, I could move the window and regulator with ease, so I am tossed up.

Does anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks!

canucklehead

The power mirror has a dual servo switch.......What I mean is there is a hot wire for move left, and hot wire to move right.....but both get current at the same time....the polarity is reversed by the switch.....so the mirror motor goes in left and come out right at the same time.....for example.
Is it possible the window motor works the same way for up down.....When you try to jump it it won't work without the reverse polarity....
Have to tried to see if the door switch itself is faulty? Not just the connections but internally?

nanderson88

I put a new switch in, so it's not that.

tsbrewers

sounds like the window is not in the track correctly, or the regulator is installed goofy. I would make sure the window is all installed correctly.

canucklehead

What about bad ground, bad relay, or a wiring fault.....

nanderson88

Grounds come back fine, I took the a meter to them and they were perfect.

There is no relay, that is controlled by the master switch if I am not mistaken.

And as I said in the first post I took a look and traced wiring from the fuse block @ 12v, to the door harness @12v, to the switch @12v and upon switch activation had 12v there. But also as stated above, I bypassed internal wire g all together with a 12v jumper from an external battery right to the motor and produced the same results.

I'm going to do a double inspection of the track tonight and the regulator.

canucklehead

Have you check for voltage at the motor when you actuate the switch?
My diagram says dark blue and brown are the drivers window, and the lt blue and tan are the passenger feed. Yellow is the main hot wire from the block and black is ground.
On the passenger side, the lt blue and tan change to dark blue and brown after the door switch.....
I am just curious to see if there is a voltage drop when you try the switch....

nanderson88

I don't mean to be rude as any help is appreciated, but every question you have asked thus far I answered I'm my first post. You are correct the blue and brown are the leads from the master switch, those two leads produce 12.5v upon actuation of the switch, there is no drain or drop on those leads. And as stated above I bypassed the switch in its entirety and jumped 12v straight to the leads, negating internal wireing all together. It must be a track issue or regulator issue, that's the only logical thing left... but I am hesitant to believe that's the case. As the regulator moved fluidly when I removed the motor to be replaced with a new motor.


Thanks.

canucklehead

Okay. Sorry. Just throwing darts here.
Last thought. have you tried removing the motor from where it connects to the regulator and tried to run it without the load of the window on it....? If it runs smooth then yes it must be the regulator or a mechanical bind somewhere.

ps you did not say that you did this with the new motor just with the old one.

jampg

Where did your replacement motor come from? I would take that one back and try another one, tell them its defective. Its worth a shot.
I owned a 2000 express and had to replace the motor once a year. The motors pretty much suck. Get one with a lifetime warranty if you can.