How to keep from draining battery
 

We recently purchased a 2017 Chevy Express 9 passenger high top Explorer conversion. We are very disappointed to find that we not only cannot run the tv but even the map lights without the key on. We do not want to sink lot of money into further conversion after dropping near 70,000 on the van or invalidate our warranty either. What work-arounds have others used? Would a battery trickle charger plugged into a campsite electrical service keep us good to go or could it keep up with the amps the tv would draw? Another issue is the automatic closure of the sunroof when key is off. I'm not sure of the point of a sunroof in a van if it cannot stay open at night while you are sleeping. What have others done there?

Those conversions are usually a wiring nightmare. Not sure if they would even provide an electrical diagram. You can install an aux battery on the left frame rail similar to what diesel vans use and wire the "house" consumers to it, and install a battery isolator - this way only the house battery will discharge, while the van battery won't be depleted to ensure you can always start the engine. With the engine running, both will charge.
Also you said they're all wired to an "ignition switched" power source now, this wire can be easily changed to be connected to the permanent 12V source.

Artie1

I second that... The key word here is ( warranty ).
I am not so sure you would be able to do much to modify what you have
and something doesnt work right they will scream VOIDED the warranty .
Artie 1 I will be doing the second battery myself.....
I guess for me I would have to ask a few more questions..
if your at a camp site then you have electrical hook ups..
then why are you worried about running the tv. radio. dvd player . ect
off the 12 volt power source ( AKA ) your battery...
if its a conversion and your using it for camping then thats big difference.
or maybe you want best of both worlds..
I am in a similar situation ... I looked into how many amps are being used on a
55 inch tv.. I looked up dvd player amps. its not that difficult you have to change
watts into amps..
For me.. I will be using an converter AC power source 110 v
to 12 volt at 30 amps.. that way I can isolate the vehicle battery all together. ONLY
when I have access to 110v ac .
lets say you dont have 110v ac and you want to run your items in the van...
I believe thats what the main question is all about... you dont want to run down the
only battery you have .. You would need more capacity ( another battery ).
I believe that those conversion vans are over maxed on items
in them versus what amps you have on hand in a battery there for the battery will run
down rather rapidly .
I am curious to know what amperage of alternator is in that conversion van.
amp in a trickle charger are usually no more than 3 amps of charge.... so the answer
would be NO. it wont keep up. and then if you tried it would tax that battery to the point
were it would let you down at the most unoportuned time .

I am curious to know the tv your talking about ... is it a true 12 volt tv.
or does it have a plug were it could be plugged into 110v ac ?

It sounds like the aftermarket map lights and tv are run off the factory accessory circuit, which goes through the computer. It needs the key on in the first click right? not the second ignition on click.
I would say that better to have the key in, than have something hardwired that will run the battery dead.
I would not mess with it, but instead check with explorer or your sales person as to how things are supposed to work. Then you know what you have to live with.

I have an older conversion van and have sought similar advice on here. The conversion accessories plug into the fuseblock. I can't remember who but an upgrade idea was posted on here with the battery mounted on the frame rail and an isolator relay was used. If you can find where your accessories connect to your fuseblock try unplugging wires one at a time until you find the wires that run the accessories you want to get power to. Then you'll need a fuseblock for those items or inline fuses and wire them to the backup battery. For a backup battery I would get a deep cycle marine battery. The advice you already got here is great.