I'll buy dinner for whoever can solve the problem with my 2011 Chevrolet Express 3500
November 18th, 2017, 9:07 AM
#11
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I'm still stumped by the lack of codes.
We have recently been discussing a device that plugs in to the OBD port, an ELM327 Bluetooth reader. Coupled with software on a smart phone, it can read info on the fuel rails in real time, as well as many other things that can be going on. That seems way more pleasant than a ride with the doghouse off.
Where are you located?
We have recently been discussing a device that plugs in to the OBD port, an ELM327 Bluetooth reader. Coupled with software on a smart phone, it can read info on the fuel rails in real time, as well as many other things that can be going on. That seems way more pleasant than a ride with the doghouse off.
Where are you located?
They can be somewhat fraudulent. But even the cheapest clones will read what you need.
Basically, the cheap clones are Chinese knock offs that copied an older version, so while outdated, they still work. The software can be free in some cases. I use Torque Lite, the free version of Torque. If you have the time, read "Best Upgrades Done". It a bit lengthy, but we totally covered the ELM device.
And yes, they are available on line.
Basically, the cheap clones are Chinese knock offs that copied an older version, so while outdated, they still work. The software can be free in some cases. I use Torque Lite, the free version of Torque. If you have the time, read "Best Upgrades Done". It a bit lengthy, but we totally covered the ELM device.
And yes, they are available on line.
Downloading and installing Torque now.
November 18th, 2017, 11:21 AM
#13
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Just purchased one online will be here in two days. Most likely the security system is not the cause (none of the indications like ignition locked out, key needs reprogrammed, security light comes on,etc occurs with this problem) almost likely it's a fuel pressure issue or the ECM. Hopefully either one as this is becoming an expensive problem. Even if it is fixed before the reader is delivered I still plan using the it to help with future problems.
November 18th, 2017, 11:38 AM
#14
I was thinkig that if there was a fault in the key cylinder that it could cause the immobilizer to stall the van. Gm has had several issues with the key cylinder and mine froze on my in my 2002.
November 18th, 2017, 11:30 PM
#16
It is not the immobilizer because first, it only works upon start up, and won't shut off the vehicle once it has started (that could be, obviously extremely dangerous). And second, the Security light would be flashing on the dash if that's the case.
It's not the fuel pressure issue, because it won't be running at all. But you can verify this by having someone turn on the ignition and crawl under the van with your ear by the fuel tank, and listen for the pump to come on for few seconds.
And it's not the ignition switch, that stuff is really reliable especially on the newer ones.
When you say computer reset, what do you mean? Negative post disconnect? I'm inclined to believe your "resets" have no effect on the van starts. After it stalls, and you then attempt to restart it, does the Check Engine light come on during "ignition on" time? If that light is not on during the ignition on phase, the computer is NOT on, and it won't start!
What are the chances that rodents have eaten into the harness? Has the van sat for a long period of time in the past?
It's not the fuel pressure issue, because it won't be running at all. But you can verify this by having someone turn on the ignition and crawl under the van with your ear by the fuel tank, and listen for the pump to come on for few seconds.
And it's not the ignition switch, that stuff is really reliable especially on the newer ones.
When you say computer reset, what do you mean? Negative post disconnect? I'm inclined to believe your "resets" have no effect on the van starts. After it stalls, and you then attempt to restart it, does the Check Engine light come on during "ignition on" time? If that light is not on during the ignition on phase, the computer is NOT on, and it won't start!
What are the chances that rodents have eaten into the harness? Has the van sat for a long period of time in the past?
November 19th, 2017, 8:10 AM
#17
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It is not the immobilizer because first, it only works upon start up, and won't shut off the vehicle once it has started (that could be, obviously extremely dangerous). And second, the Security light would be flashing on the dash if that's the case.
It's not the fuel pressure issue, because it won't be running at all. But you can verify this by having someone turn on the ignition and crawl under the van with your ear by the fuel tank, and listen for the pump to come on for few seconds.
And it's not the ignition switch, that stuff is really reliable especially on the newer ones.
When you say computer reset, what do you mean? Negative post disconnect? I'm inclined to believe your "resets" have no effect on the van starts. After it stalls, and you then attempt to restart it, does the Check Engine light come on during "ignition on" time? If that light is not on during the ignition on phase, the computer is NOT on, and it won't start!
What are the chances that rodents have eaten into the harness? Has the van sat for a long period of time in the past?
It's not the fuel pressure issue, because it won't be running at all. But you can verify this by having someone turn on the ignition and crawl under the van with your ear by the fuel tank, and listen for the pump to come on for few seconds.
And it's not the ignition switch, that stuff is really reliable especially on the newer ones.
When you say computer reset, what do you mean? Negative post disconnect? I'm inclined to believe your "resets" have no effect on the van starts. After it stalls, and you then attempt to restart it, does the Check Engine light come on during "ignition on" time? If that light is not on during the ignition on phase, the computer is NOT on, and it won't start!
What are the chances that rodents have eaten into the harness? Has the van sat for a long period of time in the past?
The computer reset is were I disconnect both battery cables and touch them together for about 30.seconds or.so allowing the capacitors to discharge in the ECM. About 80% of the time after each stall I only had to do.this once. And of course when it starts back up it runs fine.
I'm thinking this has to be the ECM. Mechanic tried to do check on the fuel system but after running it for an hour in the garage and then driving it for 30 minutes he couldn't get it to stall. Plan on going by this morning and betting it will.for me. The fuel.pump was replaced back in July along with the BCM so those should be fine though it's possible the new pump.was bad or is going bad. Or it's the pigtail.connector that has a bulletin on it from GM.
November 21st, 2017, 7:45 AM
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is it fly by wire or the old cable throttle body? i have seen alot of the newer fly by wire throttle bodies get dirty and need to be cleaned for low idle/ stall issues
November 24th, 2017, 5:04 PM
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Well here's where I am at. Still stalls out. And this is after replacing the fuel pump and connectors (GM Bulletin recommending the replacement of connectors) as well just having a remanufactured and repogrammed PCM (or ECM or ECU take your pick) installed and the security system initialized by a local Chevy dealer just 2 hours ago. Stalled out a mile from the shop. So at this point:
1.) BCM replaced under recall in July 2017
2.) Fuel pump replaced in July 2017 (before we knew it was the BCM)
3.) Cam Position Sensor replaced (coded/check engine light) 4 months later (11/17)
4.) Crank Position Sensor replaced (coded/check engine light) 1 week later (11/17)
5.) Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced (no code/check engine light) last week
6.) Throttle Body replaced (no code/check engine light) last week
7.) Fuel pump and connectors replaced (no code/check engine light) earlier this week.
8.) ECM (PCM) replaced with reman. and updated programming and then installed by local dealer with security system initialization done by same dealer.
The next thing I am doing is trying a recommended trick by removing the 3 wiring harness to the BCM, spraying them with WD40 and reconnecting to see what happens. At this point we are thing maybe a bad BCM or bad wiring. Either way I am 100% frustrated as I can use it for work and everyday I use my back up vehicle I am losing $100-$300 a day. And already thrown over a $1000 at this problem so that just the icing on the cake.
Any ideas or other suggestions? Oh and no lights are on except the ABS and Stablitrack dash lights which has to do with the reluctor (sensor) ring on the back passenger side being corroded and needing replaced. Plus after talking to my mechanic and a mechanic at the dealer they both said that this would not cause the vehicle to complete stall out and then not start.
Other thing leading us to BCM is that if I wait 3 minutes or so (give or take 30 seconds) it will start right up every time. Which means the cable trick I mentioned above is not needed. So something like a wire or a micro relay (in the BCM most likely since PCM was replaced just today and it still did it) is possible overheating causing a bad or no connection and then cooling down enough to reconnect 3 minutes or so later allowing the van to restart and run perfect. Which is the other crazy thing. When it runs, it runs perfectly fine no issues. Just stalls right out of the blue at random but more frequent times lately.
1.) BCM replaced under recall in July 2017
2.) Fuel pump replaced in July 2017 (before we knew it was the BCM)
3.) Cam Position Sensor replaced (coded/check engine light) 4 months later (11/17)
4.) Crank Position Sensor replaced (coded/check engine light) 1 week later (11/17)
5.) Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced (no code/check engine light) last week
6.) Throttle Body replaced (no code/check engine light) last week
7.) Fuel pump and connectors replaced (no code/check engine light) earlier this week.
8.) ECM (PCM) replaced with reman. and updated programming and then installed by local dealer with security system initialization done by same dealer.
The next thing I am doing is trying a recommended trick by removing the 3 wiring harness to the BCM, spraying them with WD40 and reconnecting to see what happens. At this point we are thing maybe a bad BCM or bad wiring. Either way I am 100% frustrated as I can use it for work and everyday I use my back up vehicle I am losing $100-$300 a day. And already thrown over a $1000 at this problem so that just the icing on the cake.
Any ideas or other suggestions? Oh and no lights are on except the ABS and Stablitrack dash lights which has to do with the reluctor (sensor) ring on the back passenger side being corroded and needing replaced. Plus after talking to my mechanic and a mechanic at the dealer they both said that this would not cause the vehicle to complete stall out and then not start.
Other thing leading us to BCM is that if I wait 3 minutes or so (give or take 30 seconds) it will start right up every time. Which means the cable trick I mentioned above is not needed. So something like a wire or a micro relay (in the BCM most likely since PCM was replaced just today and it still did it) is possible overheating causing a bad or no connection and then cooling down enough to reconnect 3 minutes or so later allowing the van to restart and run perfect. Which is the other crazy thing. When it runs, it runs perfectly fine no issues. Just stalls right out of the blue at random but more frequent times lately.