Lower Ball Joints 2003 Express 2500
December 7th, 2015, 9:02 AM
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Lower Ball Joints 2003 Express 2500
Im about to do some front end work on my express and Id like to know what to expect from the lower ball joints. Haynes manual says the lower ball joints are pressed AND crimped in. Cant find any other info on that to confirm. Has anyone had trouble replacing the lower ball joints themselves without having to go to mechanic as manual suggests (remove control arm and bring to mechanic to remove crimps and press out ball joint)???
Ill be replacing the upper control arms with models that have the ball joint already installed so good to go there.
I wasnt expecting anything special for the lowers. I was expecting to be able to press them out and press them in.
Can anyone chime it? Can the press still push them out if they are crimped?
Ill be replacing the upper control arms with models that have the ball joint already installed so good to go there.
I wasnt expecting anything special for the lowers. I was expecting to be able to press them out and press them in.
Can anyone chime it? Can the press still push them out if they are crimped?
December 7th, 2015, 8:14 PM
#3
gm specialty tools has a press tool that presses the crimps into the ball joint as it presses it into the control arm.
I have also done some that simply request you to swage a crimp into the ball joint ( the upper lip that sits slightly above the bore) with a flat punch and hammer after the joint is pressed into place.
those are the two factory methods I have encountered when using oem ball joints.
aftermarket bj may use a snap ring.
if you hammer the lower joint out like the video; support the lower control arm with a jack stand.
when removing, I grind off the crimped metal with a die grinder as I find it hammers out easier.
I have also done some that simply request you to swage a crimp into the ball joint ( the upper lip that sits slightly above the bore) with a flat punch and hammer after the joint is pressed into place.
those are the two factory methods I have encountered when using oem ball joints.
aftermarket bj may use a snap ring.
if you hammer the lower joint out like the video; support the lower control arm with a jack stand.
when removing, I grind off the crimped metal with a die grinder as I find it hammers out easier.
Last edited by tech2; December 7th, 2015 at 8:20 PM.
December 8th, 2015, 10:28 AM
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ive watched that video a zillion times....unfortunately the model hes working on is a 2002. the upper ball joint is rivited and replacement get bolted in....unless you wish to replace the control arm too which comes with ball joint if you want....2003 uppers are press in so i have option of ball joint or control arm with ball joint...im going with new control arm with ball joint....
my issue is with the lowers....in that video for the 2002 he just presses (or hammers) the old on out and presses the new one in...
my haynes manual distinguishes between 2002 and 2003 and later by stating that the lower control arm must be removed to have the ball joint pressed out since they are also crimped in.
great video though...was helpful in seeing what is generally involved.
my issue is with the lowers....in that video for the 2002 he just presses (or hammers) the old on out and presses the new one in...
my haynes manual distinguishes between 2002 and 2003 and later by stating that the lower control arm must be removed to have the ball joint pressed out since they are also crimped in.
great video though...was helpful in seeing what is generally involved.
Last edited by cygvan; December 8th, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
December 8th, 2015, 10:31 AM
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gm specialty tools has a press tool that presses the crimps into the ball joint as it presses it into the control arm.
I have also done some that simply request you to swage a crimp into the ball joint ( the upper lip that sits slightly above the bore) with a flat punch and hammer after the joint is pressed into place.
those are the two factory methods I have encountered when using oem ball joints.
aftermarket bj may use a snap ring.
if you hammer the lower joint out like the video; support the lower control arm with a jack stand.
when removing, I grind off the crimped metal with a die grinder as I find it hammers out easier.
I have also done some that simply request you to swage a crimp into the ball joint ( the upper lip that sits slightly above the bore) with a flat punch and hammer after the joint is pressed into place.
those are the two factory methods I have encountered when using oem ball joints.
aftermarket bj may use a snap ring.
if you hammer the lower joint out like the video; support the lower control arm with a jack stand.
when removing, I grind off the crimped metal with a die grinder as I find it hammers out easier.
where do i grind? if im able to hammer out the old joint is there something i need to do to the control arm in order to get the new one in? the new ones appear to have a snap ring.
im just worried that ill get it all apart and not be able to reassemble with new if the arm needs further prep to accept the new part.
im also worried about egging out the hole.
December 10th, 2015, 7:02 AM
#6
the lower on yours will hammer out. you do not need to remove the control arm. you can also press it out on car with a balljoint press. the fastest and easiest way is to hammer it out. if it has been crimpled from the factory, look for indentations on the ball joint. these will be located on the back of the ball joint not the stud end.
the new part still should have an interference fit. the snap ring is a 2ndary method to secure it. use it.
if its over your skill level, take it to a shop. they have all the tools so if a problem occurs they can deal with it.
the new part still should have an interference fit. the snap ring is a 2ndary method to secure it. use it.
if its over your skill level, take it to a shop. they have all the tools so if a problem occurs they can deal with it.
December 10th, 2015, 8:14 AM
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the lower on yours will hammer out. you do not need to remove the control arm. you can also press it out on car with a balljoint press. the fastest and easiest way is to hammer it out. if it has been crimpled from the factory, look for indentations on the ball joint. these will be located on the back of the ball joint not the stud end.
the new part still should have an interference fit. the snap ring is a 2ndary method to secure it. use it.
if its over your skill level, take it to a shop. they have all the tools so if a problem occurs they can deal with it.
the new part still should have an interference fit. the snap ring is a 2ndary method to secure it. use it.
if its over your skill level, take it to a shop. they have all the tools so if a problem occurs they can deal with it.