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OK...here is a hack to save you $500. A friend suggested making a mold out of play dough. That got the wheels turning. I had Duct Seal on hand. For those that don't know, that is a putty like material that electricians use.
I drilled 2 (1/8 inch) holes in the broken side of the clip. These were drilled straight in, perpendicular to the existing plastic. The wire reinforcement would be bent an go into these 2 holes. The 3rd hole was drilled at a 45° angle to the plastic. The thought being the epoxy would enter the holes and form a lock even if finished flush with the existing plastic. 1/8 inch holes were used to purposely allow epoxy to flow around the wire within the hole.
The wire used was 20 gauge steel.
Epoxy used was JB Weld Steel Quick set. 2 small tubes. One of steel the other the hardener. It was rated for "most" plastics. Cost $5.
The Duct Seal/Clay was used to make a form to cast the missing parts of the plastic. It was over sized slightly. The reinforcing wire laid in. Epoxy poured and worked under the wire and excess over the top of the casting and onto the existing plastic. Epoxy was worked into the 3 holes. This process was repeated on the opposite side to rebuild that second broken clip as well.
After the epoxy hardened the Duct Seal was removed (sticky if real warm) then a power dremel tool was used to reshape the casting. This is a slow and painstaking process all just eye balling it and trying to fit the switch every so often. The inside of the casting is more critical. The slots that retain the switch have to have clean sharp edges. I got it the first time but could have rebuilt the epoxy had I messed it up. (I am thinking kids play dough would have been less sticky and easier to remove than Duct Seal)
The wire helps with the side spring action and well as being anchored into the original plastic. The wire anchoring actually provides more downward pressure reinforcement.
Its not pretty but it works.....and it didn't cost me $500.
It helps to be on friendly terms with your dentist. Dental tools make this fairly easy.
Last edited by goyakpacking; August 23rd, 2016 at 11:23 PM.
I've seen that done before, but I totally forgot about the whole process. Really good job, I am impressed. As long as your plastic bonded to GM's plastic your "new" part will be stronger, better and I like it!
Good job! I was tempting to recommend getting a different color if you have to on Ebay and then skinning it in vinyl wrap. I might end up doing that. I'll skin in it in Titanium or Stainless Steel like my steering wheel is done.
But none the less I am very impressed with your work. Good job. Which leads me to one question... should a person "re-inforce" their part if they have it out? Since I am going to be installing this part, should I epoxy some metal? I paperclip? Anything to strengthen it? Seems vulnerable now that I've seen yours. Window down, someone passes something... etc.
I think I would reinforce it if you have it out. A paperclip is about the same gauge as what I used, maybe a little larger. You could bend it and lay it on the outside surface. If it doesn't give enough clearance for the epoxy to run and adhere on both sides of the clip you might want smaller diameter? Use the dough trick, then pour epoxy over it. You wouldn't have to mill the inside like I had to. Just make sure the dough is up through that rectangular hole so it stays clean.
I am not sure how well it bonded...but those holes drilled through at different angles created a lock of sorts even though they are ground flush on the inside surface where the switch slides in.
Last edited by goyakpacking; September 2nd, 2015 at 12:19 AM.
Just so everyone knows, the bezel piece which holds the Power Windows Switches are different between the Power Mirror and Non-Power Mirror Models. I finally got mine out. I have power mirrors now! Just no switch to control them.
Yes I did. I have spare parts, wiring harnesses, etc. but unfortunately they potentially will all go in the garbage. I'm forced out of my own home by the friendly local police. Long story, I am currently screwed. It's a simple job if you spend the time studying schematics and such. Glad I did it. The hardest part was trying to find parts and to find them cheap.
Dual mirror kit with turn signals built in is 120 bucks us on ebay, mirror switch is 42 bucks at dealer. Was going to drill a hole and just mount it to that little panel.
I've gone thru similar issues as OP when trying to figure out how to install power mirrors in my 2016 Express 3500.
1st, I pull the window swtich door sub-panel and found that I had power mirror wiring, yeah!
2nd, I confirmed the fuse box under the driver seat has a fuse installed for power mirrors. yeah!
1+2= probably have the complete wiring for power mirrors.
Note; Since I don't have a heated mirror button on the dash, I am did not attempt to include this in my upgrade.
Next;
I bought the power mirrors set (with turn signal !?), non-heated on ebay. about $175 for the pair.
bought a joystick swtich for the control GM# 20945027, $25 ebay.
Now it gets complicated.........
I go to my local Chevy dealer to order the small, simple, power window/mirror switch plate. - CAN NOT!
Chevy said you can only get this plate with the entire door sub-panel GM# 84074342 for $151.00.....ok, I buy it.
Part arrives, it's compelte with the window swtich and power door lock swtich installed, problem is there is no mirror switch!
Had 2 experiecned parts guys try to sort this out. back and forsth for a few weeks but they are not able to find the parnt number for a 2016 door s-panel with mirror switch. ?!?!
Long story short they order me an older part number GM# 20944906, it arrives, complete with window, lock and Mirror swtich looks great! even the same pweter gray color.
Now it gets really complicated.
the older sub-panel GM# 20944906 is phiscally different to my 2016 GM# 84074342 , the shape and color is very similar but the mount tabs and spring clips that connect to the main door panel do not line up.
I then try to just swap the small switch panels . - Different, significantly different.
Long story short, I removed both sub-panels and swtich plates, got out the utility knife and cut, modified and shaped the 2016 door sub-panel to accept the older switch panel with the mirror switch.
It's installed and looks ok, all the wires connected without issue, works great, even the turn signals! - bonus.
so, all in all, I spent ;
$ 175 Mirrors
$ 151 Door sub-panel (but only used the 49 cent little switch plate)
$ 25 mirror swith (dont' need, will try to return)
$ 0 2 hours to firgure it all out and install.
$ 351.00
so, it's a lot of cash but I think it's worth it as every time we switch drivers it's a long annoying process to get it right. And also nice for moving while backing up into tight spaces.
on to the Next proejct ..........BestBuy Echomaster backup camera.
September 1st, 2015, 11:21 PM
