"Service Stabilitrac Soon"
June 12th, 2018, 11:02 AM
#21
The EBCM has diagnostic codes, just like multiple other car systems. You need to have the codes read with Tech 2 (the old good Tech 2 will still read 2016 vans) or a GM MDI. That will be 10 times more useful than any advice here. Evening out tire pressure, or crossing the battery cables will not fix it, we are not in year 1991 of automotive electronics.
June 13th, 2018, 5:01 PM
#22
Some things don't change much on automobiles. As far as I know, wheel speed sensors don't compensate for tire pressure.
High tech gadgets can certainly be useful but are not a substitute for good old problem solving skills. There's nothing wrong with advice based on first hand knowledge.
(But yes, in this case I would get it scanned).
High tech gadgets can certainly be useful but are not a substitute for good old problem solving skills. There's nothing wrong with advice based on first hand knowledge.
(But yes, in this case I would get it scanned).
July 26th, 2018, 1:54 PM
#23
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Just got it back from the dealer. Apparently, it was a bad "steering wheel position sensor". They had to drop the steering column. And in doing that, they snipped the wires to my aftermarket tweeters, and hands free mic. They did call me first, but I had to splice them back. Had it not been under warranty, it would have been $324.45.
I get a kick out of the terminology. The code was "Sensor not plausible".
I get a kick out of the terminology. The code was "Sensor not plausible".
July 27th, 2018, 3:24 PM
#24
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Here's another possibility on a cause for the Stabilitrak/Traction Control fault. I have a 2008 Suburban 2500 and in recent months, several problems began, more or less at the same time, but they didn't always manifest at the same moment. The cruise control began working only intermittently, and on my usual 45-mile highway drive to work, where I'm usually able to avoid any heavy braking, on 3 out of 4 trips, somewhere along the way, I'd get the caution triangle, and these fault messages in the DIC. In one of the other threads, I saw the suggestion that the brake pedal electronic switch (activates brake lights and signals the cruise control module) could be faulty. With some simple experimentation, I became convinced that this was the reason for my cruise issues. Installed a replacement (AC Delco) switch, and it appears all 3 issues are now resolved.
What I discovered, through trial and error, was that with a light application of the brakes, the cruise portion of the switch circuit would remain closed (i.e. brakes on), but on heavier applications, the switch rebounded correctly.
My theory (guess) is that the Stabilitrack/Traction Control was being fooled into believing that the brakes had been "on" for numerous miles, which eventually tripped the fault.
What I discovered, through trial and error, was that with a light application of the brakes, the cruise portion of the switch circuit would remain closed (i.e. brakes on), but on heavier applications, the switch rebounded correctly.
My theory (guess) is that the Stabilitrack/Traction Control was being fooled into believing that the brakes had been "on" for numerous miles, which eventually tripped the fault.
Last edited by ctbimmer; July 28th, 2018 at 7:31 AM.
July 27th, 2018, 10:31 PM
#25
Did they give you the faulty part back? I would tear it apart and find out exactly HOW it failed.