04 chevy express 3500 radio switched 12volts
#1
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
04 chevy express 3500 radio switched 12volts
04 chevy express 3500 radio switched 12volts new radio install.
I've sliced into the oem radio harness' red w/ white tracer for constant 12VDC an the Black for ground. which color wire is the switched 12VDC?
I saw on y-tube a man splicing into the climate control leftist beige wire. I'd prefer to steal from the radio harness.
my new radio has ulimation organe w/ white tracer for dimming the backlight, the express has like 3 organe wires how do I know which to connect to I'd prefer to not trail an error it.
thanks
I've sliced into the oem radio harness' red w/ white tracer for constant 12VDC an the Black for ground. which color wire is the switched 12VDC?
I saw on y-tube a man splicing into the climate control leftist beige wire. I'd prefer to steal from the radio harness.
my new radio has ulimation organe w/ white tracer for dimming the backlight, the express has like 3 organe wires how do I know which to connect to I'd prefer to not trail an error it.
thanks
#2
electrical schematics are available on charm.li
#3
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
wow thats a wealth of infor. thanks mountainmanjoe for the link I've saved it definitily can use on other GM stuff.
I navigated though all of it an didn't find or didn't understand how to find. apparently I need to get into power distribution.
here's where I navigated to.in connection ID didn't see the red power wire, or the switched 12VDC I need.
I navigated though all of it an didn't find or didn't understand how to find. apparently I need to get into power distribution.
here's where I navigated to.in connection ID didn't see the red power wire, or the switched 12VDC I need.
#4
The stereo doesn't have ignition switched 12V.
It gets woken up by special message on the class 2 serial data communication network.
It gets woken up by special message on the class 2 serial data communication network.
#6
hopefully you don't overload that circuit
#7
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
ok I'm not taking the chance on over loading the blower
plan B was to look inside the fuse block under driver seat which requires removing the whole dam seat.
plan C connect though the firewall to the battery idolater which mite ruin the isolator. I do see a rubber gromit on driver firewall near parking brake but it's tight from uptop maybe accessible from underneath.
plan D use the same constant 12VDC from radio an branch off it w/ my own manual switch.
plan B was to look inside the fuse block under driver seat which requires removing the whole dam seat.
plan C connect though the firewall to the battery idolater which mite ruin the isolator. I do see a rubber gromit on driver firewall near parking brake but it's tight from uptop maybe accessible from underneath.
plan D use the same constant 12VDC from radio an branch off it w/ my own manual switch.
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#8
#9
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
I've never connected a relay I know it has 4 posts this mite be a tad to conplicated for me.
don't want to mess w/ removing the seat. leaning toward plan D
plan D use the same constant 12VDC from radio an branch off it w/ my own manual switch
don't want to mess w/ removing the seat. leaning toward plan D
plan D use the same constant 12VDC from radio an branch off it w/ my own manual switch
#10
except the one day you'll forget to switch it off and get stranded in the middle of nowhere