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why didn't you say how easy the relay was to connect an understand how it works? I'm assuming using a relay energized by climate control there's no chance of over loading the climate control circuit?
so here's my new plan A in image.
to bad GM didn't have a AUX fuse box inside van under dashboard.
can I get a 4 pin relay from the junk yard an wire it like my diagram 87 not used?
Correct. The relay itself draws very little power.
In that fusebox under the seat there's a stud you can use for adding accessories. But you still need to figure out the switching yourself.
You could, but why put in all this time, and then use dodgy parts. They only cost a few bucks new.
so my initial post on how to connect relay from y-boob was missinformation an the second post is correct thanks for confirming an mentioning the fuse.
over the years I've owned 4 of the express vans 02-03-03 & 04 currently have 03&04 only fuse I've blown was the cigar ligther an I think radiomaybe a taillight.
I've never even looked at the under seat block. this AUX post you speak of could save me alot of work.
this audio sys, consists of head unit, backup camera, starting off w/ only front speakers sound great (just bench testing them) mite add rear fill speakers later.remember this is not a cargo w/ tons of space it's a RV full of cabinets. I'm planning a smallish mono sub amp.250watts rms to power a smallish 8" sub.woofer.
all previous sub.s I've installed required a big fat 0AWG gauge wire connected directly to the battery w/ a 100amp fuse very close to battery. there's not many choices where to mount this amp. easiest for inside van would be behind drivers seat.
can I connect this big fat 0AWG cable to under the seat? or must it be connected directly to battery?
if yes to later it seams kindof of difficult to run cable though the firewall where the parking brake is plus the possibility of water intrusion concerns me.
maybe crawling under van going though firewall at PB gromit mite be doable from uptop it's a no-go can't access the area.
it has been suggested from cargo vanners to go though the floor an route cable under frame up to battery, problem w/ that is I have water holding tanks under the van obstructing the access hole. any suggestions on this amp power cable is much appreciated. thanks again mountainmanjoe
plan to mount the relay under dash behind pass.side kneeboard theres space.
definity not rushing this installation just to redo stuff.will report back when completed.
I wanted to go to junk yard bc when removing the dash trimpanel I broke the dam trailer tow button GM makes these dash buttons impossiable to remove
are the GM trucks tow buttons the same an interchangable w/ the van of same era?
Last edited by the Brain; April 4th, 2024 at 9:38 AM.
new plan A for amp power cable going though the pass. side door to inside cabin. run under carpet to behind drive seat for mounted amp. I may change my mind an mount amp to rear of van where the sub is located.
I've decided to route the amp power cable though the pass. side door to inside cabin no holes necessary look at the left side of battery there's two holes already. there.
then sneak cable though where the rubber wire troth is.
goes inside cabin at kick panel. I'll post images.run under carpet to behind the seat. I maynot have amp behind seat but in rear of van where the sub will be.
here's what I was concidering as plan A
going though where battery is to outside of inner fender but behind front fender. cable will be wrapped w/ inner tuber rubber an laced tight to body.
then drill though the behind kick panel run cable though gronimit.
are you saying plan B mite be better going though firewall where the emergency brake cable is?
plan C is drill though floor behind seat? there is a long 27 gallon water holding tank run just outside the frame rail I need to crawl under there an take a look.
the RV builder installed the water fresh water input tube just behind the driver seat so there mite be a chance I could drill close to this water tube. additionaly I think the fuel filler tube is real close mite could get away w/ a long drill bit.
this hole would be less suspable to water intrusion.
thanks
Last edited by the Brain; April 5th, 2024 at 4:32 PM.
Just use the stud in the fuse box under the seat that was intended for this exact purpose. It takes 5 minutes to remove the seat with a deep 18mm socket.
If you absolutely must use the engine bay, then do it the correct way. Drill a new hole through the firewall, checking both sides to make sure you don't hit anything. Install a grommet on the sharp edges, install your cable, and backfill the hole with fire putty.
Of course using suitable fusing and cable management
April 3rd, 2024, 9:07 PM
