2001 Tracker Starting problem..
 

I have a 2001 Chevy Tracker, it has 195,XXX miles on it. We took it to a GMC dealer and spent four hours waiting for them to run a diagnostic and put in a fuel filter, and we paid 200 bucks just for that. They said after checking it that there wasn't anything really wrong, but it appears the fuel pump was going out. They wanted 600 to fix the fuel pump, or 900 for GM Parts. We went to a mom and pop mechanic that we know and trust, they put a new fuel pump in and the problem didn't go away.

The PROBLEM is that if it has been sitting it will start right away but you drive it somewhere, down the road or even several miles, it is fine, but as soon as you stop the car and turn it off it won't start again. You have to wait up to twenty minutes to get the damn thing to start. Once it starts its fine.

I was thinking maybe a sensor is out and not telling the gas what to do. I'm not sure. CAN SOMEONE HELP?!?!
I'm going crazy here.

email me at quantum26leap@yahoo.com as I may not make it back to this forum. lol

RE: 2001 Tracker Starting problem..
 

my buddys car did the same thing and he was told it was the starter selinoid they should be cheap enuf to try and see if that fixes the problem

RE: 2001 Tracker Starting problem..
 

You need to be more specific here, will it crank but not start or just not crank?

RE: 2001 Tracker Starting problem..
 

starter are like 100-160 usually and a truck at work(1992 c2500) wouldnt start and it was a fouled up TBI, the flanges when heated wouldnt open and so the trioke would turn over but not start, so you might have a throttle body problem

hmmm
 

For the record if anyone reads this thread, the fact that the engine has to "cool down" is a good indicator of your issue. In electrics, there is what we call a "intermediate failure" meaning a componant fails periodically under a specific set of conditions. In your case, I must go with my instinctvand say you have a component in you starting system that fails when engine compartment temps reach operating levels. This is extremely common but difficult to diagnose, the shop has to put the vehicle under the exact same conditions to duplicate the problem. I suggest this, check all wiring for corrosion, nicks, and heat damage. A bad wire will work fine at colder temps but will fail at operating temp because the wire stretches apart as its warmed. It will behave like aspark plug and jump the gap initially, but eventual it will pull too far apart and cause a component to fail. A ohm meter and 20 mins can prove this theory. Hope this helps, don't let it whoop ya lol