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67 c20 runs rough
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...f4ed937c2.jpeghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...852108a48.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...331e76359.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...231bf6b27.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...d2e9cf0be.jpeg ok so here’s the deal I bought a 67 c20 for $400 off of a guy at my church. I’m 14 and the guy likes me so that’s why I got such a good deal. I got the truck home and did lots of work and got it running like a champion! Started right up ran good, plenty of power....... I’ve gone through several tanks of gas. But just the other day it was oddly cold for July and Otis, the name of my truck didn’t like that at all..... so lately it’s gotten warm again but my truck is starting awful, running on 2 or 3 cylinders and backfiring and just being a jerk to me.... so I THOROUGHLY CLEANED THE CARBURETOR and got six me ngk spark plugs, sanded points, rotor, and all the little tabs in the distributor, and it still runs awful. However once it gets hot, around running temperature it starts to clear out. It’s a 292. Any help would be nice. Please don’t say “just let it warm up” because it used to run perfect all the time this truck is my pride and joy and I don’t eat on it |
Originally Posted by Leland drives 1967 Chevy c20
(Post 359491)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...f4ed937c2.jpeghttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...852108a48.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...331e76359.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...231bf6b27.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/chevrol...d2e9cf0be.jpeg ok so here’s the deal I bought a 67 c20 for $400 off of a guy at my church. I’m 14 and the guy likes me so that’s why I got such a good deal. I got the truck home and did lots of work and got it running like a champion! Started right up ran good, plenty of power....... I’ve gone through several tanks of gas. But just the other day it was oddly cold for July and Otis, the name of my truck didn’t like that at all..... so lately it’s gotten warm again but my truck is starting awful, running on 2 or 3 cylinders and backfiring and just being a jerk to me.... so I THOROUGHLY CLEANED THE CARBURETOR and got six me ngk spark plugs, sanded points, rotor, and all the little tabs in the distributor, and it still runs awful. However once it gets hot, around running temperature it starts to clear out. It’s a 292. Any help would be nice. Please don’t say “just let it warm up” because it used to run perfect all the time this truck is my pride and joy and I don’t eat on it |
Originally Posted by Leland drives 1967 Chevy c20
(Post 359492)
I don’t beat on it, stupid auto correct I would also check the distributor out thoroughly. Don't forget to check to see if the vacuum advance cannister diaphram isnt blown out too. She will burn more gas if its not working. And of course, don't forget to grease the muffler bearings!!!! :D ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ Just kidding you about that!!:) BTW, is that a Three On the Tree 3 speed tranny? |
Thanks for the reply, I bought a new coil when I first got it running. And I don’t feel like it’s ignition because when it gets hot it runs perfect. It’s just so odd. And it never fails to run perfect after getting hot. And he fuel pump has plenty of power so powerful it blew a 2 liter off. Also if there was such a thing as muffler bearings, I wouldn’t need to grease them :D it has about 4ft of exhaust....... which isn’t intentional but the old muffler was so rust it just was hanging so I ripped it off. And surprising it way quieter than I thought. And hopefully within the next year I’ll have a 350 to put in. So I want the 292 to run perfect before I put it on a shelf. And btw it has a 4 on the floor |
Make sure the choke is working correctly. You might also want to rebuild the carb.
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Originally Posted by Leland drives 1967 Chevy c20
(Post 359498)
Thanks for the reply, I bought a new coil when I first got it running. And I don’t feel like it’s ignition because when it gets hot it runs perfect. It’s just so odd. And it never fails to run perfect after getting hot. And he fuel pump has plenty of power so powerful it blew a 2 liter off. Also if there was such a thing as muffler bearings, I wouldn’t need to grease them :D it has about 4ft of exhaust....... which isn’t intentional but the old muffler was so rust it just was hanging so I ripped it off. And surprising it way quieter than I thought. And hopefully within the next year I’ll have a 350 to put in. So I want the 292 to run perfect before I put it on a shelf. And btw it has a 4 on the floor OldChevy is correct about the choke. Those were a real b***h. I'd rebuild the 1 barrel Rochester carb. Those old motors were not meant to be used with anything but leaded gasoline, and the ethanol in most gasolines now tends to eat up the seals, O-rings and gaskets. I found a rebuild kit for the C-20 carb online here: Rochester B BC BV Carburetor Repair Kit K1141 You might be able to find a vid on youtube about rebuilding the carb. I used to soak the housing down overnight and use an air-hose to blow out all the passages. You might have a bad accellerator pump too. Some carb maunufacturers used a leather piston seal, but I think the new carb kits use Viton piston seals. |
Originally Posted by oilcanhenry
(Post 359503)
The four speed is the best transmission for an old 3/4 ton pickup, and you have a granny low-gear too. The three speed was basically a car transmission, and all the linkages go south on them soon enough.
OldChevy is correct about the choke. Those were a real b***h. I'd rebuild the 1 barrel Rochester carb. Those old motors were not meant to be used with anything but leaded gasoline, and the ethanol in most gasolines now tends to eat up the seals, O-rings and gaskets. I found a rebuild kit for the C-20 carb online here: Rochester B BC BV Carburetor Repair Kit K1141 You might be able to find a vid on youtube about rebuilding the carb. I used to soak the housing down overnight and use an air-hose to blow out all the passages. You might have a bad accellerator pump too. Some carb maunufacturers used a leather piston seal, but I think the new carb kits use Viton piston seals. |
Is this a single barrell carb? If it as gm you can get the number off the carb body that will help in getting a kit, it could be also a Holley either way. I also agree with carb issue.
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Originally Posted by Leland drives 1967 Chevy c20
(Post 359522)
thanks, any idea where I can get OEM rebuild kit? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB25194A https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...etor+Kit&pos=0 |
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